NZBen

Took it down a private rd over the weekend at 200 with cold brakes, no shudder. Then again with hot brakes and heavy shudder. I guess that means rotors?

I might spin it up on a hoist and isolate any drivetrain issue

It happens under power accelerating, then coasting or braking back down till abt 130

I was at Hampton Downs the other week and found that at high speed - over 170kph, the car starts to shudder severely, the shudder continues till speed has dropped to below 130. It possibly gets slightly more severe if brake are applied but not certain. I know my diff bush is stuffed. The car is an 09 G6Et. Has anyone come across this before? Not sure if it's driveshaft, brakes, wheels or something else. Thx

Hey Matty, I'm thinkin abt going down similar road to you. However I have seen you say several times u love the smaller turbo. How laggy is the 82? Is the gtx a better all round option? What RPM does yr turbo start to boost? I guess I really need to take a car with a 3582 for a drive.

Bump... my G6Et has just started doing this as well I was just installing a built in Bel STIr radar detector and ALP laser parking sensor. And noticed damp carpet under dash I guess behind the stereo. I noticed it again today when I was turning a long hard corner, my feet got wet. I had jst been through a car wash, but I assume it's the AC. How hard is it to get to the drain pipe and where is it?

Did you get use to the power easily before the gearbox started to give up? I just got use to the power of my tune really quickly. Then when I couldn't catch the little evo accelerating onto the motorway on ramp I figured it would be nice for a bit of extra broom. But not sure if I will get use to that as quickly as I have with the current tune.

Hmmmm... im not sure where to go... will do some reading on the 400 club. Might start prepping for that and jst get the gearbox built when it starts to slip. How are you finding the power you have now matty? 440 is it?

G6et '09, ID1000, big fuel pump, PW stg1 cooler, cat removed.

Am now well and truely use to my current tune (roughly 315rwkW) didnt have enough grunt to pass a modified evo on the motorway on ramp the other day. Wondering where to go next. I guess the next step is a new huffer. I probably want to steer away from needing a transmission build. But am not likely to ever take it to the strip, what is the trans good for? 400ish rwkw? We have just got e85 on pump in Auckland now. I guess I have just got to figure out what turbo to buy. I was jst thinking an F6 huffer, inlet delete, battery relocate I'll try and fabricate an inlet elbow out of ali. I guess I am getting close to valve spring territory too? Thoughts anyone? Thx

Am thinking abt invos

Sorry... G6Et, 320rwkw std rims. 245/40/18 currently. I figure the 45 might give a better ride, slightly better gearing etc.

I am thinking about increasing my wall thickness from 40 to 45. At the moment I need new rears, so was thinking about changing them to 45, then when my fronts are gone I would change them too. My question is... will running different profiles have issues with the dsc abs etc? Any suggestions or tyres that really hook up and arent too bad in the wet?

Took my freshly tuned G6 around Hampton on the weekend. Was great fun, though it did show a couple of limitations firstly the brakes on a big tank like this get so hot after a short while they just fade out badly and you just find yourself having to brake super early which is sad. So I will be looking at some sort of brake upgrade soon. Are territory brakes bigger? Will they fit? Also the engine oil would overheat after a couple of laps bringing a warning light on. So it's definitely lacking there too. Will look for an after market cooler to slap on. But well recommend it to get a new experience and learn how the car misbehaves when pushed. The best part of the day was people coming up to me and telling me I shoot flames!

Did it the other day, was easy as piss. Plus, gearbox has lost that lurch which is good. If anyone is thinking abt needing their zf serviced and places are quoting too much. It's a very straight forward thing to do. So dont be put off by nay sayers on here. I used GulfWestern Syntrans. Paid abt $200 aud for 20l. And just siphoned it into the fill port.

Thanks for that... very useful. Dont think I'll have too much trouble.. Im a mechanical engineer and use to be an airplane mechanic. But airplanes dont tend to have slush boxes. Just in case there was anything to look out for I thought I'd get some opinions.

My car now has around 115,000 on the clock and abt 320rwkw. The gearbox is doing some strange things. The dreaded 'milkshake lurch' also flaring. I dropped the pipe off the cooler to have a look at oil condition.. pretty dark looking. Under a macroscope there are lots of pretty shiney bits floating around. I am in auckland and asked a couple places for a price on an oil change, prices range from $1000-$1200. Which kinda freaked me out. So have decided to try do it myself. People I have talked to say sump pan needs replacing. But it's a metal pan so I would have thort I could get away with a gasket and filter. I have also bought an aftermarket cooler to put on at the same time. But I'm not sure how to connect it to the gearbox. Is there a fitting I can buy that will bolt onto the side of the zf or will I have to make something up? I was going to use Gulf Western syntrans, drop the sump off drain it and clean the pan and magnet. Fill it up, Run through all the gears, drain again. Fill again run through. Drain again. Clean pan again, Fit new gasket. Connect new cooler then fill up, run through gears and top up. Any thoughts on my intended process? I have never done this before so suggestions would be appreciated. I'm not sure quite how to fill it or check levels, so any photos would be appreciated. I figure if I do it myself. I will be able to do it at semi regular intervals.

Ok... so the answer to my question... driving to work and back rush hour traffic etc I was getting pretty much 13l/100km. ID1000 tuned to give 327rwkw driving to work n back plus lots of hammer down and Im getting the same. Taking it easy I would quite believe Im using maybe 10-15% less fuel.

He sorted it out. Apparently the xcal4 had bad firmware on it. He loaded new firmware and it sorted the issues.

Any thoughts on the stalling would be appreciated. There is no question the injectors are severely down on flow... hence they may be 725 or 850s. I get the feeling if they get changed out for 1000s I'll likely drop power and economy.

The injectors in both cars are ID1000 we are thinking they maybe have been incorrectly labeled. It has been tuned and runs well. Got 328rwkw with wheelspin. However it has an issue, currently stalling when it gets put from neutral into drive at idle. Tuner is gonna rip injectors out moro and confirm flow.

It's in at the tuners now. But an issue showed up, wondering if any of you have seen it before. They put ID1000 in, new gapped plugs and a new fuel pump. Then put the scaling figures in from a G6Et that they recently did the same mods to. But it wouldnt start. He tweaked the injector scaling some and got it started but said it's running real lean rite now. How come 2 identical cars with the same mods need different scaling. Is there something else that has been overlooked? The tune hasnt yet been done.

Am about to get a tune and buy a tuner, I heard the new smartphone based iTSX is not available for Oz Fords. Is this true or is it something that may happen shortly?

How many km per tank around town. I have a little bit of skepticism abt the fuel economy indicator

My stage 1 PW cooler jst arrived from my group buy... yay. I was jst about to cut the cat out, put a new pump and some ID1000 jectors in. I had been told previously that I should be able to get similar fuel consumption providing Im gentle on the gas. However I was talking to someone today who has put the ID1000 in. He said he wouldnt do it again for a daily driver. Round town he said his fuel consumption has gone from 12.5 up to 16l/100. He reckons he would just stick with standard injectors and tune for 280rwkW. I'm currently getting abt 12.8 in start stop traffic. Abt 430/tank. I think 16 would be a deal breaker. Any experience from guys that have put them in before?