Mace1979

As per the title, my (I believe) Front caliper/piston locks on slightly, randomly and I can unlock it usually by stamping on the brake a couple of times. It's more of an annoyance as it makes the steering wheel shudder. There is no shudder as I brake. NONE. So it isn't the rotors being warped. I upgraded from the stock brakes more than 6 months ago. The problem has been around since probably 3 months ago. The brakes are the PBR upgrade 322mm from I believe the XR8. These are second hand. They had been painted yellow so the mechanic cleaned this off with a bead blaster. They have DBA 4000 slotted rotors which were machined nice and flat. The mechanic serviced the calipers and I also doublechecked myself recently that the caliper sliders had good grease. I had new front and rear pads fitted at the time. I'm wondering if the (maybe) twin pistons need lubrication. Anybody ever dealt with this? Could the shudder be actually coming from the rears?

Small revival on this 11 page thread. After reading the entire thread, I decided not to bother with the Earls Oil Filter kit I had bought and decided to just remove the existing in line filter (my car has done 200,000ks) I used the following tools: 7mm socket 8mm socket long extension mid extension Ratchet 24mm deep socket Phillips Head screwdriver Very small but long Flat blade screwdriver Rag to clean your fingers, barely any oil in this method. Building on all notes from this thread, I took the following method: Using the 7mm socket and short extension and ratchet, I loosened the flexible air intake hose away from the airbox lid. Using the Phillips Head screwdriver I removed the intake snorkel. Using the 8mm socket and long extension and ratchet, I removed the three bolts holding the bottom of the airbox in. With the airbox removed, locate the oil supply line electrical connector and disconnect, eyeballing using a torch next to the throttle body. Using the 24mm deep socket and mid extension and ratchet, I removed the connection up to the banjo connector. Ensure to catch the copper washer. (The banjo connector and line did not show any movement, you may need to secure the 24mm bolt behind it if it does move. A 24mm long ring/open ender inserting from above, would do this.) At this point, using the very small flat blade screwdriver, gently insert into the pass through bolt. If it goes in more than an inch, the filter has already been removed. Otherwise, gently but firmly remove the banjo connector and collect the copper washer. Note, one side will likely be rougher than the other. Using the 24mm deep socket and short extension and ratchet, remove the last bolt. The following was outside my process so not sure on tools; Inspecting the last bolt, take out the circlip and the filter and discard both. Installation is the reverse of removal. This did not require removal of the car's Z9 oil filter, did not need any jacking up, was not tight to work on, did not lose me any skin off my fingers and all up took me 30 minutes. Thankyou to all who contributed to this thread.