Gee-dog

Thanks for your farking concern... You can buy the tools needed - vacuum pump, guage set, scales etc. You don't need an arctic licence for any of those.

Not entirely true - check out Hychill Hychill a/c gas No doubt I'll be flamed by the "it's dangerous, your car will explode" haters, but it works, and anyone can buy it.

You get used to this pretty quickly - as long as you aren't regularly swapping between this and a car with a "normal" indicator.

I've got the same Arcan jack - from Costco. They still sell them for around $170 I think, and occasionally have them on special for less. It's a great jack, and good value for money. Do you know anyone with a Costco membership?

Do you have poly bushes on the caster arms? Mine are Superpro (I think) and came with large steel washers that go either side of the bush. On my 09 FG one of these washers was catching on the body mount, causing a clunk whenever the caster arm moved a bit - ie turning, braking etc. A couple of suspension places couldn't find the cause - gave me the sh*ts for over a year before I found what it was.

A new filter kit was advertised on Gumtree this afternoon, in a nearby suburb. It's now in my car, and I'm back on the road.

No - the hard line just after the banjo fitting, hence the earls request.

Hi All, I've managed to break my stock turbo oil feed line (FG G6ET), and need to get a replacement asap. I don't really care if I get a stock one, an Earls filter kit, or a braided line & fittings with no filter - the car has done 160,000km and any sand in the engine is well gone. I'm in Adelaide, and my questions are: Does anyone in Adelaide have a stock oil feed line they would sell? Does anyone know of a local supplier that would have an Earls filter kit in stock? Any help appreciated. If I can't source a used stock line I'll price one tomorrow, and also price up the aeroflow/speedflow bits to make my own braided line. Thanks in advance, Geoff

I've done it - not all in one go but have done upper & lower control arms and caster rods on both sides, using a smallish home press. No issues, just need the right sized press tools.

I have a beige passenger's front mat with a G Series logo riveted to it. I think it is a genuine Ford one, but can't guarantee it. It has a couple of small black marks on that would probably come out with a steam clean or shampoo. You can have it if you want it - just pay postage. I replaced both front mats when I bought the car - the drivers side wasn't in very good condition but passenger's looks fine (except for the aforementioned marks). Thought I'd thrown them out but they are still in the garage.

Is the outdoor temp sensor referred to above the same one that gives the outside temp reading on the ICC? If the displayed outdoor temp is correct (or very close), can I assume that the sensor is fine, or is their a separate sensor for the displayed temp? My outdoor temp display is correct (or close enough - always within 1 degree of the current temp broadcast on the radio), but my aircon is crap.

Is that a yes to my first question? Any feedback to offer? Of course it may have been a yes to my third question - if so how many posts do I need?

Anyone here had any dealings with PRM Fabrication Engineering at Pooraka? They make car trailers, and advertise on Gumtree. Any feedback would be appreciated. Cheers ps Why can't I start a new topic in the SA section? Do I need more posts?

It does idle better, but still has a slight "stumble" occasionally. Got rid of the MIL & codes, so I'm calling it fixed.No oil leaks now either, so double bonus.

I saw a Landcruiser today - unmarked, dark colour (black or very dark blue) had someone pulled over on Main North Rd near Mawson Lakes. Other than the internal blue & reds I wouldn't have picked it for a cop.

Mine had the following: MIL light on with codes P138 & P1386 (intake & exhaust cams too far advanced). Idle worse than normal (which isn't particularly smooth anyway) Otherwise it seemed to drive as normal. My chain had jumped one tooth.

I had my timing cover off last week to reset the chain - it had jumped a tooth. When I bolted the cover back on one of these bolts (the one that goes through the turbo pipe tab) didn't tighten at all - it just kept turning with very little resistance. I bought a longer bolt (8mm x 1.25, 150mm long, hex head) and a 150mm long 8mm tap (had to get this made - actually got 2 - one tapered & one plug). I extended the threaded section of the bolt a bit, using a die (already had this), then tapped the hole in the head to take the longer bolt. Did all this without removing the front cover again, so worth the $ buying taps in the time & effort saved. My timing cover was leaking before as well, but when I removed the harmonic balancer it seems that the leak was from the front crankshaft seal. This can be replaced without removing the front cover, but you do have to take the balancer off. I had the cover off to reset the chain, so replaced it off the car.

Thanks JVK. We managed to work that out- it spins the correct direction to use a breaker bar, touching the floor, and hit the starter to loosen the harmonic balancer bolt. Got it all apart, and my tone wheel looks fine - no chipped or broken teeth. The cam chain isn't stretched either. Had to make a local tool to remove the harmonic balancer - what a pain. Reset the cam timing - it was 1 tooth out. Managed to damage the 2 timing cover locating dowels getting the cover off, so will need to get them on Monday before bolting it all back together. Also found where my oil leak at the front was - the crankshaft seal. Got a new one ready to install, along with rocker cover seals, new spark plugs & drive belt. I'm hoping it will idle like a swiss watch when it's all done.

Looks like I have similar issues on my G6ET. Initial issue was rough idling (had this since I bought it 6 months ago, but is a bit worse now), then logged Camshaft too far advanced errors on both intake & exhaust cams. Pulled the rocker cover yesterday, and it seems to have jumped one tooth. The chain guide & tensioner look fine. I assume it must have jumped on the crankshaft sprocket - can't imagine that it could jump on both cam sprockets. I'm just about to get into it, and have a couple of questions - hopefully someone is online this morning with some knowledge. 1. Which way does the motor turn? I know I should have looked before stripping it, but I didn't. I can get someone to hit the starter, but easier if someone can tell me. 2. Resetting the cam timing - not sure if I can do this without removing the front cover. I should check the bottom sprocket so will try & remove cover, but not sure if I can get the harmonic balancer off without the holding tool. Any suggestions? Cheers, Geoff

Just an update on this problem. I didn't go to Cluse Bros as I've had issues there in the past. Ended up going to the Tyrepower on North East Rd, Expensive Daewoo Hill - also called Web Suspension. The tech there knows his stuff, and did a very thorough inspection & wheel alignment. The alignment was way out, and the car is now totally different to drive. I am very happy, and would recommend them to anyone wanting a decent alignment done in Adelaide.

Hi All, I've had my 09 G6ET for about 4 months, and it has bump-steering issues on rough roads at 80 kph + speeds. The steering is fine at speeds below 80, and at higher speeds on smooth roads. As soon as I go over 80 on a rough surface road, the steering wheel starts "dancing" from side to side as the front wheels hit bumps. It has done this since I bought it. I have replaced the front tyres with new Nitto Invos, and had a wheel alignment done. The alignment was done at a Kmart Tyre & Auto, I believe by the apprentice who only checked and adjusted F&R toe. I suspect I need a bit more castor. I've done a search & found front alignment settings for an FG, but haven't found rear specs. Can anyone help with this? I'm also looking for a suspension place / wheel aligner in Adelaide (preferably northern side) who is capable of checking camber & caster & resetting as needed, and who actually knows what they are doing & will do it properly. I had someone that I used, but they have moved on, and I'm sick of paying for half-assed jobs. Cheers

Good work ello - I'll check this on mine. These "bumps" are on the other side of the metal that the nut is welded to? And the bit you ground down was on the shock, not on the car?

My 09 G6ET does the same thing with the gearbox - I was told it was normal & don't even notice it now.

So I've pulled the LH rear Bilstein out, and done some measurements. Top mount diameter: Bolt - 11.85mm OEM Shock - 12.35mm Bilstein Shock - 12.20 mm Top mount width: OEM - 39.00mm Bilstein - 39.65mm Bottom mount diameter: Bolt - 12.56mm OEM Shock - 14.4mm Bilstein Shock - 14.0 mm Bottom mount width: OEM - 49.95mm Bilstein - 49.45mm So the mount holes in the Bilstein are smaller than the OEM, and the width of the top mount is larger. I can't see how this would introduce a knocking noise, but I'll re-allemble with some grease & see what it does.

Very interesting - I put a set of Bilsteins on my G6ET not long after I bought it (used - 100K), and have a similar low-speed noise. I don't think it was there before I fitted the new shocks, but only drove it for a few days with the stock ones on. I'll try & check this out in the next few days & post my findings - still have the OEM shocks in the shed.