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Try FPV JOE, he advertises on gumtree & he does a lot of mobile work for workshops all over sydney 0452460708

Ba/Bf poverty packs had a resistor under the drivers seat to let the bcm think that there was a airbag there so I'd recon it wouldn't be to hard to adapt that

BA-BF are prone to problems with the actuator (door lock) but FG's dont normaly have this problem. New actuator & get it fitted

In the sedans the rear vent below the tail light needs glueing down, remove the side trim & discover how it's only held on by 2 plastic clips (I think they intended for the trim to push up against it to stop it rattling )

The actuator should hold the waste gate shut, assuming it's a 12 psi actuator it should take 12 psi down the vac hose to force the waste gate open bypassing the exhaust gas from the turbine & therefore stopping the turbine from spinning fast enough to make decent boost. Check that the actuator is fully up (you might have to measure another one) to check weather the waste gate is shut. If you unbolt the dump pipe you can see in there. But my bet its the rubber hose on the t/body

Undo the outlet pipe from the turbo. find a old inner tube & cut out the valve stem with enough of the rubber to clamp around the outlet pipe, put your compressor on to the valve stem & presurize the inter cooler & piping system ( I use about 30 psi) & listen for air leaks It should hold most of the pressure If it pass's this test look at the turbo.

Where do you start? Regap plugs, by all means put a new set of FORD coils in it, a blocked cat, wastegate stuck open, etc... What code dose the o2 sensor throw? to rich or to lean? air filter blocked? Do the basics first.

Who knows weather they are accurate but I'd say 1 bar (15. something psi)

Sounds like its going back to the tuner, I think he may have missed a few things Where are you at? Perhaps if they can't /won't fix it somebody could recomend someone else to fix it. Irrespective of what injectors they used they should be able to get it to idle & run properly (maybe not perfectly but at least properly) At that power level it should have a bigger pump to be safe. As far as 'safe' if its tuned properly it should be "safe".

Perhaps if it were not running rough I'd hold some hope, but a combination of the two.... This is gunna cost some $$$! Step one is a compression test & go from there

No cv's all uni's +35mm centre bearing. Come's with a adaptor for diff flange (not flange change) + a new (different? ) frount gearbox flange to do away with the rubber dounut. It's a complete shaft not just a different rear shaft like other place's I rang. While a havent seen it it sounds like good value (bearing in mind I got it trade ) again thanks for your help.

Thanks for your input, gibson tailshaft ordered be here in 2 days!

You can spray it with 'start ya bastard' with it idling which will show where it's sucking air (it will run better/worse when hit the air leak) Don't try & change it with a hot engine or we'll hear you squelling in pain from here!

Went to sydney driveline in greenacre today, $1350-1550 to rebuild my tailshaft, 35mm centre bearing, retube rear (not touching frount 1/2 ) ditching rear cv & new yolk for diff to match new rear uni. What are your thoughts on this?

Hi, what are the current ideas on a tailshaft for my fg sedan? It's a ZF with a 3582 with a 66mm upgrade, pw stage 2, full xforce turbo back, KPM 1000cc injectors etc.. and I would like to give it a few runs at WSID. What are your thoughts on a one peice or two peice?. Im in sydney and are there any recomendations? Gibsons, hardy spicer, G&J? Will I get away with a retube or is this not good enough? Obviosly CF would be best but the$$! Like to hear your opinions.

Or the actuator is stuffed

Do what keith said, otherwise you'll be spending a fortune running back to the tuner every 5 min after each mod. Do it once, do it right (up to a point! ) If your using sct perhaps the tuner can put a couple of tunes in with different boost levels that you can download as you get used to the lower boost level!

Use a ford seal, & if it's modified replace the flex plate ($200 from pingtune) & dont take the engine out, just take it to a gearbox place & get them to remove the gearbox ( I'm assuming its a auto)

The steel lines are easy to bend (depending on how far you intend ) Just push on them with your palm & they bend quiet easily but if your after major movement take them off & use a pipe bender

Sorry got it wrong, thought you were taking of a tray & fittng a tub. Trays are all the same (just lenth & width varies) Check with wreckers for ba tray if you have to put the ba back together unless you don't care what it looks like.

It will fit but it'll look like sh*te. It won't line up with the body lines

If you can rebuild it yourself that's the way I would go. Decent rods & pistons, a new ford timing chain set, good oil pump (atomic if its a manual) , service the head (maybe head studs depending on your goal) As reguards a s/h motor how do you know your not buying your motor 400 km's ago? If you go a new fg short make sure you sort the dipstick out before you put your sump on.

Go for a drive to get the brakes hot, then with two people (dont try it on your own) park it on a slight hill, take it out of gear, hand brake off & see if it rolls ( it should ) now with someone behind the wheel open the bonnet & with a 13mm spanner lossen the master cyl. If the car starts to roll youvé worked out the sorce of the problem Don't think because the frount bearings (hubs) are tight that there ok Remove the rotors & spin them by hand- if there's noise or you feel roughness - change them they relativly cheap and a consumable item (they dont like potholes or being bashed into gutters as well as they wear out with age. A crook hub will give the exzact problem you have but not the brake dragging Hope this helps

Wouldn't be smarter to get in touch with nelsonion as this is exactly what he has done (with out standing success ) Perhaps you could read his posts & learn a hell of alot - even if you just copy what he's done you'd have a extremley fast falcon- & with the km's he has on it!

Doés everyone remember when oil hit $160 a barrel & petrol went up to $1.60 a litre Now it's about $50-60 and petrol is $1.60 a litre. Who thinks that oil companies are going to give up on that amount of profit? ( anyway its still cheaper than bottled water! ) I personally think that diesel has more to woory about than petrol, london will/has started restrictions on diesels entering the city on pollution grounds (even euro 6 vehicles) so I suppose its only a matter of time before our 'monkey see monkey do 'politictions force this type of crap on us