4321

The blocks are mostly the same (dipstick position in fg's different) Get another mtr ( wreckers get $50 in scrap for them), put some S/H fg rods & pistons in it, a good set of oil pump gears, new timing chain set & you will have a good base to build of. Or buy a new fg short from ford, redrill the dipstick hole & use that. first option is cheaper (see if eff xr6t has pistons to go with the rods) Building a tough engine isn't cheap (I'm doing it at the moment & it makes the $12 grand atomic mtr good value)

See if you can find a mobile thread repair ( there will be one all the workshops know of someone) He will come out & helicoil the bolt holes or you can go to repco or bursons & buy a kit & do it your self. The kit will come the right drill bit, the coils & the spanner. I don't know about changing the cam caps, aren't they supposed to be align honed? (but if you gotta do what you gotta do...)

Ordered the exhaust valves & head gasket but the pistons $242.00 each list! Are they worth it? capa via fleabay has diamond piston, Par rods & total seal rings for $2245 is this comparable? Or am I muddying the waters & should just wake up to myself & go with what Jet suggested? Who do you recommend in Sydney to do the machining? ( I'm in NW Sydney)

Thank you for this information it's invaluable!

Double check your plugs under the coloum, make sure a wire hasn't backed out of the ignition harness ( the one with the really thick wires) if the icc wasn't plugged in the remote locking wouldn't work. check that all the plugs are plugged into the fuse box especially the one in the frount (I think it's brown with big yellow wires in it)

Thanks for the replys. I did not even consider the stock pistons but that's something I will seriously consider. I discounted main studs & girdle as unnecessary for my power goal (or am I wrong?) I was going to keep the chain & guides but that's out the window now! I do intend to run head studs (12mm) Stock rings or something 'better'?

Its time for a rebuild. I've just picked up a NA fg engine (9k so it's like new) I'm happy with 400kw (at the moment!) so I would like your opinions on A : pistons. looking at a spool kit but I want the engine to be quite, on the manley site it was talking about the wrist pins being offset (like original) & this will make the pistons quite (especially when cold) I don't want a 'rattler' like GHP ended up with. I thought the noise was from excessive piston to bore clearance's? Atomic sell cosworth pistons which don't need as much clearance & should be quiter but is it worth $1400 more? Do I need another balancer as I don't intend to raise the rpm limit. A new set of billet gears for the stock oil pump & a yella terra flex plate. B: With the head do I put better exhaust valves & plaz. springs (with retainers or just springs?) or atomic sell a head ported with springs for $2600? I'm going to use all the other valve train components from the NA engine as it's nearly new (and genuine) The cars already got KPM injectors, 460 walbro pump, 3582 turbo with a 11 blade wheel, flapper mod, 3 1/2 x force turbo back etc.. which will be transferred to the new engine. I'm open to other opinions on this build but I'm not after a dyno queen as its a weekend car that has to have good manners. I can buy spool rods for around $600 for H beams or$700 for I beams (which I don't think I need) I hope somebody can point me in the right direction especially regarding the pistons

thanks for that, it's what I thought & a big help

Hi, is the NA head different from the turbo head? I know the short mtr is different but is the head (and cams) the same?

Just use the ICC out of the sedan that way it will 'talk' to the ecu, & key & should run then it should be strait forward for someone with a scan tool to sort out the air bag & trac control lights. The ICC has the key reader on the top & the bcm on the bottom With the scanner it will read the sedans VIN but that's of no concern Use the sedan cluster

Imagine trying to get that through ADR's!

Change them both & only use genuine. Open the bonnet, put the car in drive & load it up against the brakes & watch how much the engine moves! try the same in reverse to check the other side. They are a consumable so don't think they will last forever

Don't try & clean sensor just replace it with a new quality one (only the frount one not the one under the car) O2 sensors are not designed to last the life of the vehicle veiw them as a long term spark plug. While these engines have suspect coils (replace with genuine only) if it runs good on the road it does not sound spark related, as you accelerate you add more fuel and therefor need more spark to light it. If there's not enough spark at idle there's not going to be any were near enough under acceleration for it to run properly. by all means change the spark plugs (and do a comp test while your there) check or replace coils is a maintenance thing on these engines. You might just have a leaking inlet gasket or the injectors need cleaning but you have to make sure the basics are right

spares box has special till 28/3/18 20% of everything 3582r $3600 down to $2900 seems tempting!

The engine loom is different (ecu has 3 plugs not 2) fuel pump is different (but not big enough anyway) change ICC (with bcm) change cluster & It should start & run but lights may come on dash about ABS (if it hasn't got it now) Just put them side by side & start switching stuff, It's not that hard just remember they were designed to be assembled in a hurry so as long as you understand the sequence of installation the dismantling & reinstalling is straight forward

Try the bolts that hold the exhaust housing onto the turbo (next to the oil feed pipe) there's 4 or 5 of them & Ive seen on a couple of cars that one has actually fallen out

Could be the flex plate (auto's 'flywheel') behind the motor. Iv'e seen them shatter & make that noise as the jagged edge's try to engage each other, Either way its gearbox out. If it's that the flex plate is cheap new, Intune do a strengthened one or Atomic do a billet one (around $600 for a top shelf one)

Pretty sure that you can get to the end of the bolt & put a nut on it

Iv'e never been a big fan of machining relatively thin parts like this (and brake rotors) they are 'X' thick & they bent & now you machine them down to 'Y' and expect to last as long? Try a gasket between the turbo & manifold with new studs & nuts, new ford gasket for manifold & head, torque it up as JET said and there's a pretty good chance it will be good. As a maintenance thing they should be checked for correct torque every 2nd or 3rd service

The block has to have a engine no. on it, that will give you the VIN of the car it came out of (just add 6FPAAA to the frount of it) Just be aware the block has to have the dipstick hole in the right position to match your car (ba/bf at the frount, fg at the rear) or your drilling a new hole for it. I agree with everyone, while your there chuck some decent rods in it at least,if you don't & kneed them down the track- another rebuild to put them in. Kinda makes it cheaper to put them in now

Carby spray works good to, have the pipe on so you can direct it, where ever it's sucked in the engine will run rough, plus it dries clean (but it does attack paint, after all it is nail polish remover)

The temp guage is not marked with actual numbers so it's hard to work out what 1/2 is in actual temp. Isnt the coolant temp a calculated no. derived from the cyl. head temp? ( on old kingswood's when they went to ADR27a a lot of them came back with overheating, the dealers fix? bend the needle on the temp guage- overheating fixed!) My point is it's a mental thing where the needle sits, Like has been mentioned, if it worries you change the thermostat & retune or just use the reading as a guide as to whats going on

This might be old fashioned but stick a vacuum guage on it, pick up vac from a central point (not from pressure reg) At idle it should be reasonably steady- not fluttering, you'll need a cheap vac guage not a boost/vac guage because they do not respond quick enough. Check your idle reading then bring the revs up to about 2000, drop back to idle & see if you instantly get the same reading not needle flicking & then settling down All things being right it should hold a steady reading at idle if the engine is mechanically sound, a low reading is in the tune (you've checked the valve timing & done a compression check) If the needle flutters & then settles down look at valve seating (springs/ guides etc) If it had a burnt valve it would show up in the comp test. Plug the scan tool back in & start going through live data to see what the ecu is seeing from the knock /o2/ map sensors you might be chasing a crook earth. By looking at live data you are seeing what the ecu is seeing & I find this helps with diagnosing the problem If its idling to fast the ecu will pull timing out to try to drop the idle speed If you tried another T/B check for air leaks The ecu use's multiple maps for timing calculations- cold start, ECT, IAT, knock, even the o2 sensor

I'd stick with the 1000's, purely because when you want more power (and don't kid yourself you will) you will have to chuck the injectors & buy 1000's anyway, so why buy twice?. Change the cat & dump, injectors, close the plug gaps tune (hp tuners will be cheaper & work fine) I'm not a fan of cooler thermostats for economy reasons but each to his own. Later down the track a better intercooler & pump. that's my stage 1 after this get your wallet ready!

Ring joe, tell him whats going on & get a quote of him & if you need any parts he can just bring them with him. He has all the equipment for testing & programing the modules (I dont know about the ECU but ask )