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It should be blind, here's hoping there are 3 or 4 threads at the bottom of the hole that a slightly longer bolt can pick up. Did you consider a mobile thread repair bloke?, it's only a phone call & if he says 'nick off' nothing lost he might only want $80 AND it's got warranty

taps come in 3 stages, a 'starting 'one with a long champher, a intermediate & a bottoming (insert jokes here) tap with the thread cutters going nearly all the way to the end This is so you can get as much thread in the hole as possible (remember its not supposed to go through) put plenty of grease on the tap to pick up the debris You will have to drill & tap if you decide to helicoil. Did you try a longer bolt in case there's some thread left in the bottom of the hole?

The threads into the sump are blind, so you only have to block the return hole. With your fresh oil just drain it into a clean container & put it back in when your finished. The helicoil can be bought as a kit with the right drill bit. You can even buy a right angle adaptor for your drill if it's to long to fit in. Measure the depth of the hole & transfer this measurement to your drill bit with some masking tape- do not drill through! plan B is ring a mobile thread repair bloke & get out of his way!

It's important to get the rotor to sit on the hub properly. It's too late now but you should have sanded the hub between the wheel studs to remove the rust

The adjuster is at 4 or 2 oçlock, cant remember which one It's not directly in line with the hole, more towards the outside.it works the same as a nut which you turn with a flat blade screw driver- its right hand thread & as you turn it the 'bolt' part (which has a slot cut into it to engage onto the brake shoe) can't turn so the 'nut' force's the bolt out of it's hole taking up the excess adjustment, turning the 'nut' the other way will release the adjuster & the rotor should come off. If the rotor is lose on the hub I WOULDN'T use a puller as you are forcing the' over adjusted" brake shoe over a lip that has worn inside the disc (similar to the lip on the outer edge of the rotor in your picture)

Sounds like you have to back the hand brake adjustment off. (if its moving you broken the rust 'seal') It's the toothed wheel at around 2 or4 oçlock through the hole between the wheel studs

the 'woodgrain' on the wheel match's the spears on the dash, maybe try & get the set?

make sure there genuine coils & stick a boost guage on it to make sure its not overboosting. Regap the plugs to 0.8 & see if that helps, if it does you know its spark related

Mr fpv at Glendenning, dan does them all the time

change the ignition key & barrel to the one that has been paired to your modules or get someone with a scan tool to relink every thing together

The ones with Brembo's are usually ex nsw highway patrol cars. transmission cooler is still the same

I think this is why cars generally don't have oil pressure gauges anymore. imagine the warranty claims & stress on both sides these 'problems' are giving. AU1's had a oil pressure sensor fitted but after that they all got a oil switch, no oil pressure it read 0, any oil pressure 2/3 on the guage- I bet solved a lot of warranty claims. Remember fg fpv's had oil temp not oil pressure. Back in the old days it was 10 psi for every 1000 rpm (and yes you can have to much oil pressure)

The lines are 12 or 13mm Have a look in jets thread there's heaps of info (recently) about how he does his installs (with pictures! -pretty good install too)

I reckon that aaron is right, only the turbo has a oil temp switch (and the wiring to plug into it) If you were to run it oil would come out the drain back hole so to me , like arron said, the na exhaust was put on for handling purpose's. The inlet manifold has no broadband stuff which is also turbo only

The sumps are the same just the casting is drilled & tapped. On a turbo head & block are the same. Exhaust valves ,springs, rods & pistons are different none of which you can see from the outside.

As the turbo builds boost ( which it shouldn't at idle) the pressure goes down the hose to the actuator, which is about 7 psi standard, when the actuator see's 7 psi it should move the actuator which opens the flap allowing the exhaust gas's to bypass the exhaust wheel which should stop the compressor wheel from making more boost. The turbo needs a fair amount of exhaust flow to make it work, you won't get this at idle & probably not even at light cruise but when you start to accelerate you should start to see boost. Stick a boost guage on & take it for a drive & if it goes over 7psi back of the accelerator & drive it like a busted slug to your tuner!

If you want a drive to Campbelltown on gumtree ba diff & cradle with IMS hat $1500

valve springs & what are you going to do about the comp? (pistons are different)

I'm guessing a noisy lifter, but why did you have the sump off? Check the rocker cover for leaks along the drivers side down onto the exhaust IS it the same oil that you normally use? Perhaps try a different brand/ grade of oil before you start pulling things apart Next to the oil filter is the oil temp switch take this out & fit a guage to check your oil pressure perhaps the oil pickup has come loose of the pump. first up redo the oil & filter & go from there

With the stalling issue thrown into the symptoms Id check afr's but I'm thinking cam timing. With no turbo on the engine at all it shouldn't stall so at this stage I wouldn't look there which either leaves a tuning issue or a mechanical fault You've checked compression so no bent valves or pistons, check what the fuel is doing & if that's reasonable move on to spark but I would expect it to miss, then check your valve timing but start with the fuel system (with a scan tool it's easier- AFR's STFT etc..) The stalling issue is what is the biggest symptom to find out why (I'm suspecting a mechanical fault )

Had this on mine, assuming its the same it nearly plugged in but after a 'trim' of the side lugs with a razor blade it plugged in & never turned the light on.

First thing I would check is the fluid level!

It is a thin 22mm nut inside the rubber at the top & bottom. Either a spanner or a pair of multigrips will work but you have to be square on the nut because it is so thin

It's in & running fine, started at 5am this morning & in & running at 1.30! dropped the whole lot out the bottom & changed every thing over to the new engine. That went smooth but changing the radiator- what a crap job (worse than BA_BF) have pics will upload later. Thanks for all the advice!

Engine's back, mostly went with JETS suggestions, JE pistons (+0.020) scat rods, arp studs (head & main) atomic oil pump gears & cover (ported myself after brad said where to enlarge) atomic chain, guides & bottom cog, balancer & flex plate. Torque plate bored & honed , file back rings straighten crankshaft (!) plaz valve springs, ford exhaust valves & head gasket & new heat exchanger. It's mostly back together & intending to change it over this weekend