4321

If you change the fuel pressure you have to change the tune. The stock reg has to be changed (or modified) to suit the increased volume of fuel it has to pass

But as you modify the vehicle your going to have to change the cooler anyway....

Perhaps you should look at even bigger injectors if your thinking of trying E85 down the track Talk to your tuner to see what they suggest. There should be no reason why they can't get the bigger injectors to behave perfectly ( I say this because this is where I'm at, changing stuff for even bigger stuff! )

Try disconnecting the battery ( I've had more luck just disconnecting the big wiring plug at the bottom of the fuse box) for 30 min & have every appendage crossed when you reconnect it. If that doesn't work (A) go to ford & whinge about it & if your lucky they will pay half (still $1000! ) (B) a second hand one (still between $600-1000) (C) or bin it & try a kayhan screen conversion

If you get them cleaned & flow tested there's more money, getting close to new price with NO warranty Usually new one's come with wiring plug adaptors which you'll have to source as well as the injector data for your tuner

The shockworks kit is designed & sold by a ex ford engineer It is generally not recommended to change the sway bars. The kit works well & you can adjust the ride height without losing suspension travel & ride. Ivé yet to hear of anyone who is not happy with this product & if needed down the track the shocks can be modified/ rebuilt (which pedders can't)

Sedan or ute? Turbo or NA?

The factory bush's are soft (rubbish) so they don't transfer noise from the diff (which is also rubbish). Take it to a gearbox place to check & expect to get a rebuild. You can put standard bush's in & change them regularly (or put FPV ones which are a bit harder). Either that or turn the radio up, remember they are a glorified taxi & while it will last don't expect it to be perfect. Like most things in life if you throw enough money at it you can 'fix' it

I tried the ebc reds & I thought they were quite good, low dust, quite & worked good from cold. It's your choice but I'd give them a go see what you think

Just remember, while you've never worked on one it's still just a engine & normal procedures still apply. It's a massed produced engine so there's not really any thing exotic about it. The only bit of info that's a bit vague is the cam timing but once it's in frount of you it starts to make sense (not like the old pushrod stuff where you just joined the dots)

Its not unusual for the senders on the gas tanks to be faulty. Without knowing weather they have been changed yet I would suggest that would be the place to start. We change them quite oftem on BA/BF's so even though they are a different resistance they are from the same supplier (apexus) so I can't see them being more reliable The resistance is printed on them - 1st number is empty & 2nd no is full in ohms, big no. on big tank, small no. on small tank

From the middle of 06 the engines got better rods which ,tuned right,should handle that power output. a t5 will fit but won't last. FG has better inlet manifolding, sump & dipstick position is different to bf which may require drilling the block. Decent valve springs, oil pump gears are a must do (especially if manual & your going to bounce the limiter) upgrade pump & injectors, free up the exhaust, decent intercooler & a good tuner should get you close with the bf (larger) turbo

B series are common for that. Either put a S/H column in or fix it with the kit. never used that kit but I think it's a better idea than a 3/4 worn out S/H column once its in should be the end of it. and by the way fantastic build!

try fleabay for hydraulic scissor lift table $250 +delivery rated to 150kg (what would they know) done my rear bush's 2 weeks ago-roll it under where you want it, jack it up, unbolt everything, drop it down, wheel it out, do what you have to do, wheel it back under, jack it back into position put some bolts in & done! it's very stable obviously it adjust to a usable work height. I had my complete mtr , box & frount suspension on it a couple of months ago & it didn't worry it. Have had it for 6-7 years & it gets used (abused?) regulary

As k31th said ,the main restriction in the exhaust is the cat, if you want better sound by all means change the full system but for that output stock (other than the cat) is well & truly up to it. (changing the cat will need a tune immediately as the vehicle WILL overboost) If you change the injectors bosch 1000cc ones will give you a bit of headway for future mods while still behaving at least as good as stock. A walbro 460 drop in module & modified reg will give you scope for further mods if you go down that path later- try & buy bigger than what you think you need or if you want more later you have to buy it again

generaly a bit of up & down movement is acceptable (as long as it doesn't touch) but in & out movement is bad. These things don't last forever & when we speed (increase boost) them up we shorten there life.

As long as it's fg to fg or mk 2 to mk2 it will work after programming mk1 will not work in a mk2 (remember the boost guage only goes to 15 psi- 1 bar)

Can't be done anymore, used to buy a voucher from ford & they would log on & update it. No more vouchers left & the mob that did it is not interested in this system any more. Perhaps look at the kayhan screen conversion with different maps (and for extra $ apple carplay or android auto)

Rear sump is a fg, but remember the pickup will still be low (pumps at the frount of engine and there's a extra casting in the bottom of the sump to clear it)

That's just the key reader they will need the key ( and therefor the barrel) & the matching BEM & ECU The key reader justs sends the info to the BCM & it decides what happens from there. Also throw in the drivers door lock & glove box lock to match the ignition key

the length is the same as your old 221- the engine mounts even bolt on! (this was done so the barra could go down the same production line as the old 221/250 engines & fit their jigs for machining)

Theorectly it should make no difference but if there is a problem with earthing (remember we are dealing with less than 1 volt) it can't hurt

0.9 at idle is rich, it should oscillate between 0.2 (lean ) & 0.8v. Like I said you have to work out if it's running rich or if the sensor is wrong. You've changed it 3 times so I'd say that's not the problem. This is why reading your fuel trims is a usefull bit of info. 0% is the base program and it's +or - is how much the ecu is having to change the program to oscillate around 0.45v (which is stoichiometric 'perfect' mixture) it should go either side of this value trying to keep as close as it can to this reading at idle & cruise (it will go rich on acceleration, 0.8-0.9v) Next is to get your fuel pressure checked. stft are whats happening now & ltft are what it's modifying the program based on what it's seen over time

These cars have only 1 temp sensor, in the back of the head. If it is not working correctly it will show up on the temp guage- if its been running for 10 min & it says cold I would smell a rat! On the scan tool you should be able to read the O2 sensor, what readings are you getting? , should be between 0.1 to0.8v just remember this info is coming from the ecu so if its wrong 1 or more sensors are sending wrong info. Check your stf trims they should be around 0 (+or_ 5%) If your 02 reading is wrong (ie reading lean) the ecu will add fuel (positive fuel trim) to try & fix the 'problem" While looking at the fuel trims add another earth to the engine (1 jumper lead from batt (-) to a engine earth) & see if the stft changes (it shouldn't)

hopefully the bolt was to short & only stripped the outer 1/2 of the thread leaving some thread at the inner part of the hole