4321

1 is oil temp sensor

I assume it's got a boost guage on it, while I'd check with jet first, what about hooking the actuator hose straight from the port to the actuator to by pas the electronic boost control to work out if it's a electronic or mechanical issue. just keep a eye on the boost guage to see what's happening & get off the throttle if boost is to high

nearly any workshop with a scan tool can do it If not ring a couple of dealers & compare quotes

Wiring plugs are completely different. To get everything to work you have to change every loom, the bcm, the parking aid, air bag control etc.. Not impossible but a hell of a job. Perhaps look at the kayhan conversion (when they have a few more bugs worked out) FG or FG2?

It,s got a alloy bend. I have even thought of making a box which is open at the frount so (in theory) most of the noise is away from the cabin but I'll try these 2 suggestions first. thanks for your input

Hi, I'm getting annoyed about the induction noise of my turbo side air filter. Is there any way of quietening it down? I have found a 'under' battery air filter but it is for BA/BF wonder if this would fit? But the next problem will be where do I fit the trans cooler? At 440rwkw will the PWR kit be alright? (the one that's next to the gearbox) or is it best to frount mount the cooler?

I know it's not exactly the way you wanted to go, but what about a atomic long engine (with warranty!) All the R&D's done, brad's done heaps of them, then just concentrate on the bolt on's. answer to the blocks, they are all the same other than the dipstick hole- BA's & BF's at the frount, FG's at the rear, so if you get the wrong block redrill it before you assemble it. I would assume the newer the engine the less corrosion. But get it checked anyway, easier now than after a split bore!

make sure they used the engine loom of the old mtr . It shouldn't throw codes if everything is plugged in (like the 3 plugs under the ecu, very easy to latch 1 up without it being seated first)

The motors are the same, BUT a built motor is better in the long run (remember oil pump gears, head studs, valve springs all come with a built motor as well as some kind of warranty) I know people can be sarcastic on here, but alot of them have learned the hard way on what should be done, or in other words sift through the crap & take note of the advice being given. It will save you a lot of pain & $ in the long run

You have to have the codes to try to work out whats wrong. I think autobarn will read codes but a cheap scanner is proberly the way to go $80 and you own it, while it wont do everything they're easy to use & you only pay once. If it's boost related is the exhaust std?

There's a restriction in the fuel return at the bottom of the pump module that has to be enlarged

Or diff needs rebuild (quality's pretty poor from new- that's why they have soft diff bush's to minimize noise being transferred to cabin =warranty claim)

Or blow by from broken ring lands

The original wheel would have been supplied by roman autotec (RAT global now) they sometimes have specials on their website of old stock (I bought a blue leather steering wheel for my AU years ago) Worth a look

Wasn't jet doing remote tuning at one stage? (don't know if he's got time or inclination)

Check that the pins in the tail light are not bent where you plug them in (done that before!)

If it has a different fuel pump it might have to much fuel pressure (there are 2 restrictions in the return setup) get the fuel pressure checked before you try to fix a hardware problem with a software fix

There's also a cv joint at the back of the tail shaft. Perhaps you could take it to a transmission specialist for a diagnosis before you start throwing parts at it?

Whatever tune you get it will have to be licensed to the vin. you only pay once for this licence no matter how many different motors you fit. Of course the tune will be different but the licence will be the same. So your not paying for a whole tune package everytime

Through work we use Bears at st marys , diff trans at windsor is good but you need 2 wallets. Joe at hoontune recomends someone around granville, give him a ring

As good, not better

Are you going to look at it or drive it (they dont compare to modern cars) ? They do have a 'presence' on the road but there not that good to drive and by modern standards they lack performance, braking & handling. Time has well & truly caught up with them. Proberly 'might be an investment though

Does the noise change with throttle input (diff) does it vary with side load (going around corners) wheel bearings, as you vary the load going around corners ie a hardleft turn will put weight on the right wheel bearing and the noise will change. tailshaft problems are 'usually' acompanied by vibrations.Axels you can get from repco for about $200 each, they look stronger (thicker) than genuine but they are about the same with better warranty than ford. I'm thinking its the diff but it could be as simple as exhaust touching or stuffed diff bush's. Get some one to drive while you sit in the back & try to zero in on where the noise is comimg from

atomic has a video of how to do it. youtube

you need a bigger turbo, gtx 3582 or similar. The '76 will not flow enough air for that