4321

With my gibson shaft chasing same vibrations, new engine & gearbox mounts, spacers under the centre bearing, replacing diff bush's, back to gibsons, took it to hardy spicer and it turned out to be 'bent' Another $400 to them but at least it's fixed (%90 because of IMS hat)

On a stock ba you should check why the boost is so high before it puts a leg out of bed

Try turning on the headlights & then try to start it, if they go really dull then it's your battery

For NVH no aftermarket engine mounts compare to ford

And you might have to drill the dipstick hole (depending on how later the fg block is ie early fg blocks were supposedly drilled for both with frount hole capped off) fg heads are supposedly better than earlier ones

I had to 'trim' mine when I fitted it and cut of one plastic upper bar of the radiator support panel. Proberly not legal but can't be seen when reassembled (after trimming plastic behind upper grille )

Yes they are stronger, but still not strong enough. Probably enough for std even if there old but turn the boost up & that extra pressure will reveal any weakness. Best to budget a spring change & maybe head studs while your there?

Even if it falls out in 2 mins, it will tell you if that has something to do with the noise & then you can look for a permanent solution or look elsewhere

If you think it's a spring leaf problem, jack the car up prise the leafs apart & jam some plastic sheet in there & take it for a drive to see if the noise alters. At least you narrowed it down to what side it is!

Remember that when its running the oil pressure will take up some of the movement. Forward & back is bad for turbo's but up & down is not that bad, as k31th said, as long as it doesn't touch

Sounds like turbo has been added to NA ute. Find a complete ute manual diff & tailshaft, get it checked & bolt it. If you drive it hard even the turbo tailshaft won't survive so maybe upgrade that at same time.

just for arguments sake rang diff technics, around 3 big ones for a pair of axels. Appears to be what the torqueline garage are selling for $699 & $1399

Generaly with a ignition problem it will show up under load, as you accelerate you have more air/fuel between the spark plug gap, which makes it harder for the spark to jump (& fire that cyl) Usually caused by a lack of spark. You either increase the spark (new or better coils, voltage booster etc..) or decrease the distance the spark has to jump (close the plug gap- usually 0.7).spark problems with drivability are normally felt low (engine) speed/ high load . If your thinking crank angle sensor, if you can watch the tacho when the problem occurs, it reads of the sensor so if it acts crazy that will give you a indication of whats going on

Thanks for your input, CV's clicking, will ring repco today & order 2 shafts- if one's stuffed the other can't be far behind!

So keep away from them? any other suggestions or stick with known products ( thought they were made in aust. that's all)

Hi, need a new driveshaft for my sedan, has anyone had any luck with torqueline garage? they have two drive shaft types- '800 HP' for $700/pair or '1400 HP' for $1400/pair. Anyone have any opinions or other suggestions? sounds like they are special order & won't make them (or get them made) unless they have 5 orders. Appears to bolt in with no mods. Car has 440RWKW and is not really low (shockworks recommended height). Do I bite the bullet & get a set from diff technics (even though I don't think I need that strong)? .

that's not a good idea! When you undo the fuel module the tank will empty to just under half with fuel going everywhere, bloody dangerous!

engine bay wiring loom + ecu, dash + icc + keys & locks, fuel pump is different on turbo (even though it's not much chop) exhaust, turbo brakes are slightly bigger. What k31th is trying to point out it's a hell of a lot of work, not impossible but heaps of work. My mate did the same on a fg ute, with a hoist (and a forklift) in a day and a half on his own, crossmember unbolted with suspension, motor & box in 1 hit, full dash with looms etc... Just remember these were designed to build in a hurry so if you know the sequence it's not as hard (providing you have equipment) as it may seem. Just don't try mixing up the electronics if you don't have access to a scan tool

that will fix 1 part off it, but what about the bolt/ diff housing breaking? I know it's more money but the IMS system seems to be the way to go

Control blade bush's, change oil (crap job when it's fitted)

The main difference is pistons, rods and exhaust valves. Why not put something decent while your nearly there? Dont forget to sort the dipstick out before you put the BA sump back on

Above the oil filter is the oil temp switch, unscrew it & fit a mechanical guage to check what is actually happening (for peace of mind)

Ignor this bloke's advice at your own peril

Main difference is the amp, no amp means no wiring plugs or sub wiring+ inner boot lining is shaped to clear amp. Loom is changeable, time consuming but not hard.

Depends on how 'well' you want to fix it. $6-800 for standard bush but it depends on what other ones are stuffed. Rear cross member has to be removed. Poor quality diffs are noisy, so the noise doesn't transfer to the cabin ford put soft (weak) bush's in. Be aware of this with your choice of replacement bushes. Aftermarket might be stronger but...