4321

This is odd, the speed signal is picked up from the wheels through the abs?

It depends on what the tuner did. Usually with a high flow cat they dont work efficently & the second sensor will pick this up, log a code & turn the CEL on.Being a stock cat the sensor may have been left operating. I suppose the easiest way to check is crawl under the car & dissconect the plug then take it for adrive & see if the light comes on. Oxygen sensors are not really meant to last the life of the vehicl, at tech they said to veiw them as a long term spark plug

It's not uncommon for these cars to have coil problems. Just put a set of genuine coils in it (might as well do plugs while your there) & dont get any ideas about washing the engine (unless you have another set of coils handy) You can pick them up on fleabay relativley cheap but I would only buy genuine- cheapies might work but if they dont when you eventually find out & put ford ones in youvé lost alot of time

Check the rubber joiner on the throttle body. Mine split & it was pretty hard to see without taking it of. Have you acces to a compressor? What I do is with a old inner tube cut around the valve stem & clamp this around the hose. Now you can pressurize each part of the system & check for leaks by simulating boost ( use a tyre guage & remeber 20 psi should be more than enough)

Plugs & coils (genuine ford ) should be the first thing you did. Then you know there right - at tech they told us that 90% of fuel issue's are electrical & over the years Iv'e found that pretty much right. Allways make sure the basics are right. For the amount of trouble they can cause put proper plugs & coils in & forget about it for 100K (unless you decide to wash the motor !) Using cheap coils it's allways in the back of my mind 'it could still be a faulty coil' so for the bit more $ use ford & never look back.

I agree with JVK, you have to replace the column (not as big a job as it sounds, just change over the key & barrel without moving the sterring shaft) The ignition switch is caught between ignition'on' & start. Try turning the key back a bit

Keep in mind that shocks wear out, so changing old ba suspension for old bf suspension might not be such a good idea

Injectors, pump, high flow cat, holes in air box base, better intercooler & tune

The fg2 has a restrictor ring in the back of the cat, but your chucking the whole cat section away so it's irrelevant.

Just because you can get a rpm signal on your scan tool doesn't mean its good enough - had aV8 land cruiser this week ,no injector pulse, no spark ,no codes but I had a rpm signal on cranking- replaced the crank angle (position ) sensor & of it went ( was booked the next day for 'problem with the gas' but came in a day early on a tow truck )

BA & bf the same but fg snorkel is different as well as it mounts differently to the earlier ones ( lower mounts are different.)

Check your battery first , most late model cars have to have at least 10v when starting or they will register a fault. Be carefull taking it to a dealer, just think of what would happen if they decided that the ecu needed updating & they reflashed it back to standard! Make sure you explain to them that its not standard ( weather the service manager tells the tech guy is another matter ) I would assume they have all delt with modified falcons before but it might save some greif latter. It doesn't have to go to the dealer as most workshops have a decent scan tool- just ask around who is competent with their scanner & talk to them before you book it in -make sure you trust & communicate easily with them.

Providing it's been repaired properly I would not have a problem with it (there not built to such a high standard anyway ) If the other repairs are done properly -with some kind of warranty - you would be cheering ,it could ( and does ) happen to any car at a latter time & you would have to pay. Perhaps take it for a 4 wheel alighnment & I would assume if there were frame problems it would show up with the position of the adjustments.

How I check coils is to take the rubber boot off & look in where the coil spring goes , if you see grey / white dust (even the slightest bit ) in the hole then you KNOW the coil is RS . They hate water so if you see corrosion in the plug hole & on coil boot give them a new home in the bin (if you have to wash motor & don't want to remove cover to get water out then just buy new coils the next day ) The coils in this reguard are fragile & don't expect them to last the life of the vehicle. Only buy genuine ford ,they are the best quality you can get - buy cheap aftermarket & expect to change them soon. You can buy them cheaper on fleabay.

I;m interested in how this is done I tried it with hot water - didn't work ,tried a heat gun this would of worked but I got it too hot & melted the pipe. Ended up submersable hose & hose clamps - been on for nearly 3 years & no problems but I would prefer the plastic hose (maybe should have bought the module from fleabay already assembled)

Fitted a pw stg2 kit to my fg ,out with the f6 cooler & herrod pipes ,1 1/2 hours in & out (2 of us on it & a hoist) It feels like its got more top end but haven got time to log it (maybe sunday )Just put in the garage & sort it when I've got some time.

The falcon wisperer strikes again!

O2 sensors are not supposed to last the life of the vehicle. Off to repco or whoever & grab a decent one (I prefer NTK ) -just make sure you get a 'direct fit' which comes with the right connector. Contaminated fuel, coolant, even using the wrong silastic can contaminate them. they relatively cheap & it cant hurt to have anew one in. I would only change the frount one (sensor 1 ). its fairly easy to change & you need 22mm spanner

These injected lpg systems cold start on petrol for a number of reasons The main one you will have problems with is cold start enrichment (çhoke') Gas dosent like cold start enrichment -you are mixing a vapour fuel with vapour air ( the liquid will vapourize in the manifold before it gets to the combustion chamber) as opposed to liquid petrol mixing with vapour air -idling when cold with no heat or turbulence to aid fuel vapourizing you can turn off the cold start enrichment to over come this but if try petrol it will run like bag of crap when cold. If you don't regulary use petrol it will go óff' 'in the tank & destroy your petrol system Anything after amonth & the fuel can go stale ( stinks like old paint varnish & is excellent for killing grass)

We bought one from repco looks exact to your pictures & repco has 20% of for NRMA members, maybe worth acall.

this is confusing. On my fg2 I took a herrod off (didn't like the noise from the gtx) &fitted a fg v8 base & snorkel It's substantially bigger than the stock base . Top appears to be the same .Only thing is if the snorkel will fit FG-x? From memory FG-X appears to be taller?

Had a mate who would dig a hole & pour it in. When I asked him why he said it came out of the ground & I'm just putting it back.... (true storey)

Just to throw my 2cents in- my brack ground is in lpg cars. In ba,s with radiator cooling we had no troubles with water flow to gas convertors. Then came bf,s .Gas convertors freezing up for no apparent reason - systems flushed, thermostats changed, water pumps replaced, heat exchangers replaced - all to no avail (these are btr e-gas) After market coolers fitted in front of radiator (water bypassed & heat exchanger ditched) -water flow & no more freezing. Problem solved (or so we thought) Enter fg,s ford picks up water for the convertor through a new spot above the water/air trans cooler No more convertor water flow problems. Now we have cabs coming with -trans over heat- on dash Guess what -no water flow to heat exchanger. Old faithfull trans cooler in front of radiator (and another trans) & back to work they go. So what I'm saying is don't trust that you will have water available to cool your trans fluid!

I had the same problem with my fg, (gtx3576) very noisy with herrod air filter I took it of & put a fg xr8 air filter on - much quieter! Mate put it on his stock XR6T , nowhere as noisy as mine. IT sounds like you've got a pressure side air leak, first place I'd look is a split joiner on t/body or pressurize intake &find leak.