4321

years ago a mate bought a F6 with pedders coilovers on it, low as but rode smoother than his G6ET, Ivé got shockworks on my XR6T set up as per shockworks recomendations, ride is firm, proberly not what I'd want from aG6E!

Could try this, if it's a wheel baring the noise usually varies with load, driving hard around a left hand corner, the car will lean and transfer the weight to the right hand side. If it's a wheel bearing the noise should change (usually go's quiter) try it through a right hand corner to load up the other side. If the noise does'nt change it could be the diff (that noise should then vary with the amount of power put through it) If you think it"s tyre's, try different road surface's (for testing purpose's don't be afraid of running directionable tyre's backwards)

try fpv joe, advertises on gumtree, at glendenning. if he cant fix it will have another one

maybe should look at a brembo upgrade work fairley good (except for chopping upper control arm bush's)

turbo had a "hp" version of the 6 speed, better than the n/a but still not good enough (for us) turbo was german, fg n/a was chinese

seen quite a few of them stripped, often thought of grinding the edge of a 6mm nut and fitting it to a longer bolt (can see the tip of the bolt behind p/s pump) but the idea never went further than a thought!

that's right, they arn't just stops, they are part of the suspension

late fg2's & fgx's came out with stronger wheel bearings, not the station wagon diffs of the earlier models. Some diff place's were offering this as a upgrade for people who used to carry weight in their ute's. I think ford copyed it as a running change (after they announced the end of falcon prodution)

don't forget about the turbo filter inside the hollow bolt that suppies the oil feed

check fuel pressure, supposed to be around 60 psi at idle. good idea to check ignition coils

try running hydralic oil instead of transmission fluid, a ford engineer said they ran into that problem with tickfords with bigger wheels, something about trans fluid not 'shearing' under pressure

also check fuel pressure

we've got a pool, used it for a while, come home from work, turn on a/c... to hot in sun... stay inside. find someone with a pool and use theirs! If you do get one, best thing we did was a pool cover, stops evaporation, sun breaking down chlorine, keeps a loot of leaf & dirt out of pool. Always check for wildlife before jumping in!

g6e has a different plug so trying to use them is going into a rabbit hole. you need the door looms as well as the interior side looms, not impossible but a lot of work. use xr50 mirrors & run a couple of wires to the side looms (to pick up the indicator signal)

undo the 2 10mm spanner drain bolts under the gas convertor & see if water comes out (bad). take the gas hose of the t/body & see if gas comes out when you crank it. put your thumb over it & it should 'pop' when you release it

put some string down the spark plug hole & turn the motor over by spanner not starter until it stops. the string push's the valve up which should close it. if it dont seal you got problems ! remove the string when your finished

Had one leak around where the wiring goes into themodule, only when full. I changed the module instead of trying to fix it. can't take module out with more than half tank or fuel goes everywhere

It has no clip on it , its design is to slide on & off as the icc is installed/removed. or in other words your not pulling hard enough!

should'nt hurt anything (but had 2 cars come in with O2 sensor problems after this) unfortunatly not a uncommon problem with people not being carefull- most likely got the craps from a flat battery. most were cabs with indian drivers

FGX dash's are different to fg dash's. it has to do with some info from the HVAC being displayed on the display instead of the ICC. FG & FG2 clusters are not interchangable. what you want is a FPV cluster which has the boost guage (only reads to 1 bar ) and oil temp. The signals are available in the data stream so no aditional sensors are required. There is no difference between the 6 & 8cyl cluster, its in the programing. If you get a S/H cluster just try & match your km's as I don't think you can lower the reading (but I'm sure that dodgy car yards know how to do it)

You can make fg one's fit, just use the old top bolt. R&L are different

The stock actuator is 5-6 lbs, which means (sort of) it will open around that If you've fitted a 12lb actuator it reqires around 12 psi to open (vent exhaust gas around the turbine to stop making more boost) this is a mechanical thing not much you can do about without a stock actuator and/or a tune . put a pressure guage on it to see what pressure it opens at. or wire it open & take it for a drive, should have no boost and no 'boost cut' , no power but at least no broken mtr

I've had ones like this where I had to bleed it at the ABS module first (module had air in it & this was the easiest way to get air out of it)

I'm impressed even if your cat isn't!

good that you sorted that but change the ignition switch before it fails completely (the back falls off) another column or repair kit