camo86T

G6E lip spoiler FTW?

^This wasn't two easy two read

I'd go so far as to say it's pretty sh*t rab... da hurr hurr

Borg Warner if you've got the wallet for it

About 4 years ago I got a reclining Bride replica off ebay and made up some brackets to suit stock sliders to keep electric adjustment. Massive improvement in feel even with 100% stock suspension back then. Had to pull it out eventually cos apparently it was made for 14yr old Asians with no shoulders to speak of, and couldn't sit back in the seat, anything more than a 10min trip was torture Still got it in the garage... Get a seat and I can make you some brackets piece of piss

QFT

Lol yep it's the little things that get me

Co-worker's daily 12.30 habit of industriously munching carrots 3m away is pissing me off hard, most annoying I <3 Bananasing noise in the universe

GF and grand final? greedy keef

up at 3.15 for 4am starts for the last 3 days...WNB but gotta do what u gotta do

Gibson shaft, with pissy little retainer plate - will fab a replacement for it. Needed 40mm spacers on this at stock height to get it right as the carrier tabs are right at the base. GJ shaft, totally different carrier

Sorry I meant SSLs also... Depends on the housing, one of my utes has a Gibson shaft, the other has a GJ drivelines unit - these particular shafts in any case have totally different bearing carriers Will throw up some pics in a bit if I can. As far as I knew you aim for the centre bearing to be slightly higher than what it would be if the whole shaft was dead straight from gearbox to diff. A) allows for a bit of diff pinion rise under hard throttle and B) apparently unis shouldn't run dead straight...pretty sure I read that on here years ago TBH - courtesy of @Ralph Wiggum possibly?

In that case, save your money - you'll want it for mods to the T

Same here, also had to stuff around a bit with spacers height. Have never changed since dropping SL leaves in a few years back, one of the things to do before it comes off the hoist sometime during the next 7 days hopefully...

It may be possible but will definitely be expensive and gains will likely be bugger all. Would be 10x better off selling the car and buying a T if it's performance you're after. I'm guessing you got the car around the same time you joined the forum?

QFT

^^this.... And not just a "Hey, what's up, got an Audi" in the OT thread, but a brand new special thread of its own 😆 <drives across Audi dealer forecourt> "This car is rad, gotta let the plebs know asap"

That sucks fluff What's the actual feels like, joint pain, fatigue etc...any better than previous or about the same Oh and congrats on anniversary btw

Nothing wrong with Crow if that's what they are. What makes you think they're worn out?

Doesn't it already have valve springs done...?

Hey @Joska_unofficial Barra into sierra sounds pretty tough. Lots of good info on this site, have a bit of a read through these sections; https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/forum/231-conversions-transplants-and-frankensteins/ https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/forum/123-300-club/ https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/forum/152-400-club/ And this thread Late 2008 onwards (FG & FG-X models) turbo motors will handle your power goal with ease with some valve springs, oil pump gears are good insurance. Otherwise you can go the N/A + built option of course. Injector Dynamics have a reputation for being the best for this application, Bosch 1000s will do the job though. Turbos - the factory GT3540 with modified turbine housing (enlarged port & flap on internal wastegate) has worked well for a lot of people, mine with billet compressor wheel makes a bit over 400rwkw on 98 and just under 440rwkw on e85. Since your best option is probably buying parts in from the US, I'd be going the gtx3576 gen 2. If you could make the standard intake & exhaust manifolds work you've be laughing, but as you've said not likely. An aftermarket plenum like Plazmaman's retro conversion is something to consider; definitely not cheap but they've been especially designed to suit engine swaps for old Falcons, Capris, Cortinas etc so could save you a lot of pain. Hit them up with an email. https://plazmaman.com/product/billet-ba-bf-fg-retro-conversion-manifold/ RE actual motors, there are a couple of guys on here from the US - Florida I think - one of them has imported 5 or so N/A barras for these sort of conversions. May be worth a look considering your location? @Mustangman570 & @SelectivePC All the best man, look forward to this build PS. Your English is expert level compared to some of the tards that jump on here from time to time...

This is what I was getting to in your other thread. There is no way that somebody does valve springs and head studs and nothing else, as their first stage of mods. Either it has stock valve springs and studs; or more likely, it's had a fair amount of mods done including springs and studs, then old mate has returned everything else to stock to sell it, which leaves a lot of unknowns and potential issues. I say potential - could be fine, but start changing parts and upgrading power and there is a lot more scope for pain, and a lot more questions to be asked/answered. Back to topic, all the suggestions arronm made could apply. It may have a twin plate clutch, or a ceramic plated clutch, these often have a rattle. I would start by hitting up old mate with some hard questions.

How long have you had the car? Has it always done it?