camo86T

^^Point taken What are your thoughts on longevity ralph? I did think about the extra strain given the additional 'bending moment' (for want of a better word)...then bought them anyway, about $70 delivered off ebay Not the best option by any means But I am the antithesis of peter when it comes to wheels, these have been on it since the day I picked up the ute in Nov 08...

Fitted up the 20mm hubcentric wheel spacers to the rear end yesterday Now the offset looks half normal, will post pics when washed

Fingers crossed you're right Have a set of hubcentric wheel spacers I'm going to throw on the back to fix up the offset, at least when I get 20min without a 2yr old on my case Was in your territory today btw, at the albion pk air show Very much doubt you've wasted the coin though, mine will be lower and stiffer and (hopefully) more responsive than before, but it's still a donkey cart rear end

Thanks guys Need some encouragement cos not sure when I'm gonna get a chance to get this sh*t fitted Would have put more pics of ute n the thread but it's a scratched unwashed whore of a workhorse with sh*t offset on the wheels and its arse in the air Embarrassing really

Been on the makers mark and coke 200ml makers. 75ml coke. Have had 3off. Now I am wast4e

Been a while since I touched this thread While ago had another fuel pump feed line drama which was sorted with proper e85 rated Teflon gear Got a new twin plate NPC clutch put in about 6 months ago now, details elsewhere on the forum Pics for anyone remotely interested Old clutch - twin plate Mantic New NPC Basically it has one organic plate and one ceramic Bit trickier to take off smoothly now it's properly bedded in, but taken everything I've thrown at it.... ...which brings me to my diff. For a while now there's been a lot of slop in it at low speed, would lurch coming on to / off the tiniest bit of throttle, the new clutch made it even more noticeable as it doesn't have much slip Also started a bit of single spinning every now and then Took it to D&R Diffs in Chipping Norton a couple of days ago, after a drive they diagnosed ring gear wear Re-build priced at $650 + gst seemed alright to me after a bit of a search and a few phone calls I messaged jet yesterday about a truetrac centre and he was able to give me a very decent price, so have bitten the bullet...thanks jet!! Hopefully it won't be too long before I can wrap my greedy hands around it By back end has more dramas that need attention that just the diff, it tramps fairly easily now In a back room at work I have this bunch of stuff waiting to be thrown at it... Yeh SSLs on their own will just make the tramp worse...maybe! But hey got the almost brand new leaves for $450 rather than $800+ so can't complain, plus always wanted it lower. Coils I got from a friend for $120, and the Konis I picked up about 18 months ago from Pat aka SennaT for a great price I'm hopeful the shocks will help with the tramp, also considering machining some solid plates instead of using the superpro leaf bushes after a read of this thread on AFF http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11391011&page=11 Will have to shorten my centre bearing spacers as well to suit the changed pinion angle But most of all I'd love to get my hands on a set of mal wood tramp rods and make some of my own

Nope his exact words were "I couldn't find anybody around here. Snorrrrgght" Anyway I was able to help him out cos google expert

Ha Read above post this morning...just now had a guy on the phone with sort of a lisp and juicy sucking-sniffing booger noises at the end of his sentences Was after a price for a custom made ally fuel tank Not something we do but I asked if he was local as I know a few guys who could help him out - we're in SW Sydney btw He said 'Na, Gora' or that's what it came out like Turns out it's Gawler SA WTF... stainless company in NSW is the best he can do? 20 second google search I found at least two custom ally fab places in Adelaide region Not WPMO, actually amused me

Thought that was the way most people did it, have never done it any other way Had no idea xcal bricking was such a widespread issue tbh

xcal2 FTW lol I only change tunes when I swap from 98 to e85 or vice versa but never a drama Plug it in and get it started, start filling, tune loads before tank is half full

I'm no morning person but have been starting work at 5 this week to knock out a cashy job...this morning felt good!

^^^ So true My e85 tune starts up as quick as our stock G6ET regardless of weather

XR / SS bunfight prob getting old but.. Stripes just a thought, iirc your GT had power mods? even minimum mods I'm guessing say 350rwkw I just remember when I first got the ute tuned... before was sh*t-ish handling, now felt much sh*tter Limits reached way quicker etc etc Approx 220rwkw approx SS gotta take a lot more to get to those limits... sh*t argument?

@PTR_NITRO_FG has needs. Invos will help

KPM filter gave more power? Where is jet, he needs to know this... Re the in tank 460, same as what I run, but if if you've been using e85 non-stop for three years then not surprising it died Yes it's an e85 rated pump but pretty sure they're only guaranteed for 500hrs same as an 044, correct me if I'm wrong @MattyP what do you have to say about the DW pumps lol

hardly apples for apples...? Can get a FGX G6ET with under 20K km for $35-40K, VF R8 with similar kays minimum $55K That's a sh*tload of mods.....

Usual practice is for oil pump to be refurbed / upgraded while it's opened I believe? And then you start thinking 'may as well get them to throw in some new rods' etc...

Straight after they break? A question I've been asking myself also...the ol sphincter always tightens in that .00001 second where you think you may just be about to bash the limiter....

Original http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/76044-modding-your-fg-xr6-turbo/ Recent take 2 http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/91528-modding-your-fg-xr6g6e-turbo-take-2/

No-one's going there....? really...? Disappoint

After reading the posts above should clarify the TC in my ute only cuts hard when it's (intentionally) getting out of shape Makes sense reading what murdoK posted in how it brakes specific wheels as well as cutting power Which means its really doing the job it should...ie. someone from who didn't necessarily provoke it but has lost control due to poor road surface and has limited reactive driving skill, has a way better chance of not slapping that tree/wall/gutter/other car Just means that as LU82 said it's hard->impossible to steer it on the throttle when TC is on Hence it gets turned off A mate of mine is always giving his sister's VW golf a flogging whenever he gets the chance...one of his favourite Friday night tricks used to be enter a roundabout (late, no traffic,private road, any other disclaimer) at high speed in the wet, haul the handbrake up and pull the wheel sideways for maximum oversteer. Couldn't try much harder to crash it. Almost sh*t my pants the first time he did it, but the little vw hauls it's own arse into line with grim determination does feel like it's about to disintegrate though

Think peps was questioning what was left in it as he ran et streets, not street tyres?

382rwkw on 98, 438rwkw on e85...yeh no chance wringing out 1st or second Mine's manual, very fine line to get max power possible / most forward motion out of it without smashing the limiter which is a bit suicidal cos stock oil pump gears Third gear TC will still throw its arms around you if it's been left on, but with decent power it's wayyy behind, you're already well into it Result is what I imagine it's like to be coat hangered say 5m below the bungee platform

^^ Also interested in this Usually it's off before I'm out of the driveway, but sometimes I forget The way it violently grabs when it decides it's required*, cutting power and braking or whatever it does is an uncomfortable feeling to say the least, feels like it mechanically can't be doing any favours at all *Disclaimer: Private roads

382rwkw on 98, 438 on e85 Exact same turbo as mattyp incl 11 blade billet wheel