camo86T

Keysborough, yeah that's right next to Sydney isn't it. Top effort there brains

nah just flicking thru random msgs and copied some not much happens in here these days...

Ok to clarify I thought for some reason it was the kit including silicone bend etc, don't think plaz or PW sells separate components of theirs. Still not bad pricing though Edit What's that k31th?

45deg in Glen Alpine... plenty I need to do but can't be arsed leaving the enjoyment of ducted AC

Damn that's cheap, get on it I was going to say I'll post up some pics of the one I made but srsly if it's not junk, $145 is less than what your time's worth...

@Kanga it's a partially enclosed box with a hole in the side, doesn't get any simpler than that. If you've got the skills to make it with a pattern then you won't have any issues without one, will just take longer.

there's the answer right there

@aussie1jzs13 bit late sorry M10 x 1.0 pitch, 20mm long, nothing special just 8.8s That's what was in mine anyway, may not be stock

His balls shrank

Manual says M10 @ 60Nm but no length specified. My trans is out so I'll check bolts in the morning if I remember

Playing around with nugget no.1...

Recent developments... A couple of months back the ute refused to start, cranked over happily but but that's it. I was at work and short on time so I just drove the work truck home and back. A day or so later I tried again and it started first time, idled fine, like nothing was wrong. A week or so later it did it again - I left it, tried again next morning and again it started first go, no sign of any issue. Obviously this was going to keep happening but being flat out at work I didn't have the time to focus on it, and just didn't drive it anywhere other than home/work and back. Having the truck is a luxury, driving a Hino can be fun in wet weather....but that's another story lol When it happened the third time I left it again, but next couple of days - no go, she'd run out of patience obviously... The ebay spec 460 pump has always been at the back of my mind, and at 5yrs old I was half expecting it to give me issues at some point. I couldn't hear it priming, so checked current at the relay, all good. I pulled the tub liner and rails out - literally takes about 5min these days - and since I'd previously cut the forward floor panel I had easy access to the pump connections. I couldn't get a proper reading at the pump but given I'm at not quite up to kindergarten level of electrical it wasn't out of the question I was the weak link... Got an auto sparky who we do some work for to drop past and verdict was the pump, but also pointed out the discolouration at the module connection and how pissy the module wiring looked. Since I'd bought it as a drop-in unit I found the OEM pot - luckily I'd kept it - and although the pot design is virtually identical, connectors look better quality and the wiring is a larger gauge, so decided to drag it into service. I got a new genuine 460 through MTQ Sydney - can't fault these guys, Adam has looked after me very well with service and pricing over the years - as well as new convoluted e85 rated hoses from Joe at CMS. The pot and pump connectors don't match so I got a new Ford pattern quick connector to fit to the pump wiring. The one thing I did use from the ebay pot was the intermediate section which actually holds the pump - it still had the pump locator tabs intact whereas I'd managed to snap them off the Ford unit at some point. It fitted fine between the upper and lower sections of the genuine pot. I then got a manual syphon pump and sucked out the 15L or so of e85 in the tank. Being 8+ weeks old, with over a week of only rags stuffed in the pump opening and a bit of board over the top, plus a few rainy days - no way I was going to be running on it. I dropped the pot back in, emptied a 20L jerry of fresh 98 into the tank and changed over to the 98 tune. That all done, turned the key and boo yah she fired. Seemed to be running ok, but there was a fuel system fault on the dash, plus a '0 to empty' warning. Dammit, probably the sender. Turned it back off, and pulled the pot out yet again, disconnected and re-connected the sender which looked fine, and put it back in. Turned the key but all she said was ‘click-click’. As the ute had been sitting there for a bit and I'd tried starting numerous times I wasn't overly surprised about the battery; I used the yard crane battery to jump start it and left it running for a good 20 min or so while I did something else. When I came back to it a charge fail warning was up, and after I turned the ute off it wouldn’t start again. Next day I pulled the battery out and charged it on the Projecta IC1000 battery charger we have at work. To my uneducated eyes this seems to be a top unit, has seven stages of charging including 'reconditioning' and a whole lot of other features. I didn’t bother fully charging it, just left it there for about an hour or so on the 10A setting and then had another go. Same deal, would run at first but eventually ‘charge fail’ would poke its head up again. Meanwhile the fuel system fault and 0 to empty warnings were still there. Alternator? Thread results from a hit on the trusty search button agreed with me, so I placed an order for a genuine replacement from Adelaide Parts who generally have the best pricing for genuine Ford stuff on ebay. I then removed the alternator, visually it looked in pretty poor shape with plenty of crap in it. Since blue nugget no.2 is currently in bits, and will be pushing a fair extra whack of power over no.1, I decided to steal its alternator for no.1 and it can score the new one when it turns up. I fitted up the 'new' alternator to no.1, and once the battery had a full charge in it, I tried again – charge fail warning gone. #winning This was yesterday arvo, I drove it home and back to work this morning; all good except for the bloody annoying fuel level/system warnings. Plan this afternoon is to a) try get a current reading on the sender wiring and if all good then b) get the pump module out yet again and try swapping the pot base over for the ebay one since the float pivots are different, and I never had the issue before the pump died. Anyone still reading and want to throw their 2c in, please do…

Nice work mate Based on accounts on this forum, RDP has been pretty hit and miss over the years, good to hear some positive feedback

This is an old photo of my FG housing before it was modified, you can see a small crack in the seat area. 5 years ago but iirc I sent the pic to MTQ who advised something that size wasn't an issue. others could share photos of their cracks if willing lol

C'mon k31th, everybody is looking for more power

Turbo Yoda liked this post

I would find another tuner pronto Where are u local?

My interpretation Very small hairline cracks are normal and ok, dirty big splits are not, simples

Standard flapper size is no different between FG & B series housings FYI FG does use a better composition of casting with higher nickel content for moderately higher resistance to cracking

Got the wall part of it finished at least, pretty happy with how it turned out. Now I just need to get rid of the crap I dug out, dig out the hedge, backfill to level, re-plant the hedge and fingers crossed keep them alive, additional new plants and mulch, probably some sort of feature lighting, then try to coax the lawn back to life. Then there's new sandstone letterbox pillars & garden edging elsewhere in the front yard....back yard is a different project, pics to come of that sometime as well

A set of those would pull u up with a jolt

My rear tyres only just scraped through for a pink slip so I'm hunting around too, currently looking on Tyresales, Supercheap Tyres online and St George Tyres. Rear rims are 19x10.5 so I'm after either a 285 or 295 30/19. Some tyres are 'wider' than others, eg. currently got Kumho PS91 on the rear in a 285 and it fits perfect, whereas Nitto Invos for example are known to run a bit narrow. Top priority for me - rear tyres at least - is dry grip closely followed by price Best bet so far looks to be Kumho KU39s, Supercheap online has them for $237/ea fitted for 295/30/19 which is pretty good I think If you find an unbelievably good deal make sure you check the manufacture date, I wouldn't be buying tyres older than 5 years even if they only last me 12-15 months.

Are fgx 19" stock rims still the usual 8" wide? That will limit your choices, personally I wouldn't be fitting anything wider than a 255. Probably better off sticking with a more common 245 until you change wheels, will definitely get more tyre for your money. What type will depend on how you drive it and how long you expect them to last, plus obviously what you can get locally - you're in kiwi aren't you?