camo86T

^^ truth

Since no one else has chimed in... I'm a quarter mile virgin (at the track at least, street may be another story) but putting a manual XR6T down the strip in a respectable time isn't so easy. Plenty of good threads on here for info. Member on here @F6 UTE no longer logs on but was a pretty talented pedaller when he was getting into it, couple of threads which may help: http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/25839-f6-ute/ http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/24555-quick-times/ Some no holds barred attempts have been made to get a fast time in a manual, read this: http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/63278-project-manual-typhoon-9-sec/ Read these http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/75136-manual-ute-14-mile-times/ http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/39171-launch-tactics/#comment-587198 Of course there's nothing like practice though. As they say, it's all in the 60, a good launch is key which at the strip will mean giving your clutch a bit of a hiding. What do you have, at your power level I'm doubting it's standard?

60ft?

Yeh rotas - and probably others - are made to JWL and VIA standards so they're a decent wheel in their own right. If nothing else the list gives an alternative if you're after a particular style of wheel.

FTFY

Got this list from another forum when looking up what rims are a copy of another, may be of interest. Apologies if there's already a similar thread, I couldn't find one on here when I did a quick search. Any others comparisons post them up. If it's not obvious, copy on the left, genuine on the right Rota WTC = 5Zigen ZR+520 Rota SDR = Prodrive PFF7 Rota Tarmac 3 = Prodrive GC010 Rota Flashback = Work Equip 03 Rota Battle = Advan T5 Rota Formula = BBS CH Rota Real Lite = Gram Lights 57 maximum Rota Group N = Mugen RNR Rota Auto X = SSR Type X Linea Corse DYNA= Work Varianza t1s Rota Grid= Volk TE37 Rota Subzero=Racing Hart CP035 Rota Flight= CPF Tune-R Rota P45= NISMO lmgt4 Rota Boost= Advan RG 2 Rota MSR= WORK RSB Rota GT3= Gab Sports Rota Circuit 10= Mugen MF10 Rota Circuit 8= Mugen MF8 Drag DR 31 = Rota Torque= Enkei PF01 = Work Emotion CR Kai Rota D2=Work Meiser S1 Rota sdx= Mugen gp Rota SVN/Spectrum= Volk RE30 Rota Slipstream = Spoon Sports SW388 Rota Attack= Gram Lights 57cz Rota DPT= Volk CE28 Rota Track R= Sprint Hart CP-R Rota JSPL= Work rsz-r Rota J-Mag= Mugen M7 Linea Corse Lemans= BBS LM's Rota p1= works emotion xd9 Rota G-Force= Advan RS Ruff 279 = Volk TE37 Linea Corse Dyna = Work Varianza T1S Linea Corse ASO = Breyton Flame Rota Bella = Voltec MS Rota MGM = Mugen XJ Ruff R35 = Work Varianza SC1 Stern ST-1 = PIAA SuperRozza Luff M1 = BBS LM SSK 053 = Spoon Sports SW388 SSK 031 = Volk TE37 Axis Elite = Maya MRK Axis Shine = Maya DLS Axis Matrix = Volk GT-V Axis Circuit = Gram Lights 57F Axis Halo = GP Sports Gravity Gullflame Axis Old Skool = Work Equip 03 Axis OG San = SSR Formula Mesh Axis Reverb = Advan TC II Axis Hiro = Advan TCII Axis Decade = G-Games Sidewinder 2pc EXE (Axis) Konvex = Weds Kranze LXZ R-1 Milano = SSR Professor MS1 R-1 Champion = Voltec MS R-1 Grip = SSR GT3 R-1 Twist = Falken Hanabi R-1 Drift = PIAA SuperRozza R-1 Hype = Racing Hart RS-721 R-1 Spike = Volk GT-30 R-1 GTR-10 = Volk GT-N R-1 GTR-5 = Volk GT-C R-1 Gtr-6= Volk GT-P Exel Ennio = Advan V Exel DL-46 = SSR GT3 Konig Afterburner=Rays Gram lights w/ Ti lip ADR Flight 5= Mugen mf10 ADR sokudo10= Volk GT-N Arospeed RS GT = Impul NS GT II Konig Maxxim= BBS RS Drag DR-21 - Enkei rp-f1 Drag DR-23 - Spoon Spoon Sports SW388 (which also inspired Rota slipstreams) Drag DR-17 - 5zigen fn01r-c Drag DR-28 - Watanabe? Drag DR-29 - Mugen? Drag DR-9 - Rays Gram Lights Konig-Maxxim= BBS RS Maxxim Screech=Work Equip Drag DR-28 = RS Watanabe Drag DR-29 = Mugen MF10 Drag DR-33 = Advan F7 Drag DR-9 = Volk CE28 Drag DR-7 = Mugen M7 Drag DR-16 = GAB Sports Sportmax / XXR 002 = RS Watanabe Sportmax / XXR 504 = SSR Vienna Dish Linea Corse Z20 = BMW CSL Rebs Sports RS06R = Advan RG-D Varrstoen ES2.2.1 = Volk TE37 Varrstoen 5.5.2 = BBS LM-R

Pics of rims in my thread rather than hijacking this one... http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/89565-08-fg-xr6t-ute/?do=findComment&comment=1640660

Pics of how current rims sit https://goo.gl/photos/each1mM2NpcMQKCu7 They're Ruff racing R281, discontinued now. Got them wayyyy back in 08 when I first got the ute. http://www.hubcap-tire-wheel.com/ruff-racing-r281-wheels.html Front is 19x8.5+38, rears are 19x9.5+45 (knew jacksh*t about offsets etc lol) Rears now have 20mm spacers so essentially +25 Is it hard to do and what gear do you need? Never attempted it.

Thanks bud, my current front rims are 8.5+38 and I didn't think they sat that far in Possible understeer was something that just crossed my mind with 10.5" rear, plus truetrac, plus the fact the rear track would be about 40mm wider than the front with those sizes and offsets. Hate understeer.

Looking at getting some work kiwami rims, unsure yet on 18s or 19s Things I want: Decent fit and width front and back The above without having to roll/pump guards front or back So it's an FG ute, currently std front height, will fit SLs sometime but iirc they're only 10~15mm lower anyway; SSL rear but will have leaves reset somewhere between SL and SSL height depending on how the front turns out. Brakes are just std FG 322mm front so no issues there. Been trawling through this thread and a few others, general consensus seems that 8.5 +25 is a good flush fit for the front of an FG If I was to translate that to a 9.5, +38 will give the same fit on the outside, will the inner be an issue though? Will +30 work or be starting to poke? @bamk2f6tornado I know you've got 19x9.5+22 front and 19x10.5+22 rear on your BA, suspect you've done some guard work though, nor do I know how B series compare to FG. Rear I'd like to chuck a 10.5 under, can get up to +32 in 19 but max +22 in 18, will that fit under bulgy FG ute arse ok? Tyres will be most likely 255 on the front and 275 or 285 on the back. Getting fussy now, but is understeer a potential issue with say 9.5+30/38 front 10.5+22 rear? Cheers for any input blokes.

I got around 440rwkw on e85 from a 460 in tank pump only with a bit of clutch slip a few years ago but that was getting near the limit from memory. Obviously it would support a fair bit more on 98. If I wanted to push it any further I'd be going another 460 on a surge tank.

Eyebleach.jpeg

Gotta say it, you sound like a bit of a dick yourself mate.

Both good points, I sort of lost focus on what the op was wanting to do and just got busy defending my special turbo lol. I agree, def not worth doing as a standalone mod. My gt3576 had died and I got a used 3540 in good nick with a 12lb actuator for $450. Was doing intercooler, intake and injector mods at the same time so tune wasn't optional. Billet wheel $200, fit and balance it all $180, sexy l spool - free, so not too bad. I'll shut up now

I dont altogether agree. Even If you get the same size, and keep the 0.5 cover, the billet wheel is lighter because it's machined, and less material for same size wheel therefore slightly faster spool and fractionally more airflow. That's what I tell myself anyway lol.

That the green stripe stuff Ralph? E85 rated, correct?

Very tidy, stripes! Where the coloured glass was has turned out well

Just pull your digit out and make a choice freaky Congrats on 10k posts btw

Well it was a convincing performance then

WMMFG The blues kicking some queenslander arse

Opinion on what impact the 'type' of blade makes on power delivery? ie. The 11 blade has all the same height vanes, while '+ type' wheel vanes are different, primary and secondary you could say. Edit Lol Keith you type faster than me..in my defence I have a 3 year old trying to wrestle me Edit 2 My question still stands though

I copied matty with the kinugawa 11 blade wheel Always thought 11 blade gave slightly better top end, 6+6 better low-mid range...never heard of 5+5 MTQ fitted it and balanced the whole chra. When I asked, their opinion was that quality of metal and machining 'seemed' pretty decent, obviously visually checking you're not going to pick up any metallurgical flaws There's at least 3 main types of people who modify their cars imo. 1st sort spend the money first up and get genuine or top shelf parts, risk is kept to a minimum (top shelf items may obviously still break if you beat them beyond their capabilities) 2nd type save a dollar where they can, may run a bit closer to the edge, but understand the risk they're running and won't come on here crying if something breaks 3rd want everything for nothing and will end up in tears every time 3rd type never seem to last too long on here lol

The last say 2-3 days I've been on have been notable in that I haven't once logged on as someone else

Shout out for Matt at Race Brakes, top bloke. I was going to be in the area for work, so I made a call, parts were in stock and got a killer price for a set of DBA T3 rotors and Project Mu NS400 pads for the front of the ute. Picked up an hour later, happy days. Mention you're on the forums and he'll look after you, if you go anywhere else for brakes you're stupid.

Crust pizza - half moroccan lamb half beef truffle rossini War Hog IPA - 7.5% big brother of the hop hog from the lads at Feral Brewing Om nom nom