rob82

Are you comparing a ba ECM vs a bf ECM? If so the bf independently phase the cams which means you can run varying overlap to gain bottom end power.

The idle fluctuation is due to idle proportional spark. It's based off an allowable torque for idle requestor that ramps timing in and out to stabilize the idle. The base idle timing once hot in most cars is referenced from the decel timing map- it should be named "zero apps timing map" the proportional spark is then added to that. This proportional spark is turned off once dashpot idle mode is set - ie above 3mph. As for your high load knock retard I'm yet to see a tuner get this right - it can be achieved thought, even on ba ECM with a built motor and only 1 knock sensor.

Good stuff - Did you loose any low end resolution with the Tmap ie between 20-50kPa. I wasn't aware that there was a T-map that was 20-400kPa only 50-400kPa? BDM flashing?

So you have been able to enable injector cut on shift in BA/BF auto's PCM's??

Is there a way of using the FG injector cut strategy on high load shifts on BF series auto's? To me this is going to be of greatest value in reducing fatigue failures and reduce clutch wear/degradation.

So you couldn't actually stop the throttle plate from closing ie Torque souce 1 was still registering? You just tuned around it?

I have tuned with both SCT and HPT but prefer SCT - what ended up being the fix?

What your seeing is Torque source 1 (Torque truncation). Have not found a fix for this issue. You can set all the RPM for torque source to 6500rpm and the the issue still stays there. Good luck.

What fuel???

Just wondering what the differences are between BF and FG cylinder heads and also what is the combustion chamber volume in both heads?

The AU ECU is not the best ECU for tuning boosted applications. Are you still running the std MAP sensor? Are you sure there are no manifold leaks? There is most likely a min TPS for idle value that has been exceeded so it will not be using the idle timing map and the idle control will be in dashpot mode - check that the TPS is good and within range = 0.6V should be ok.

How much for a long motor?

I thought you would be used to those 2stroke motors Sir20B - maybe its fords new oil metering system!!!

So much missinformation here. If you go to the right tuner all you need to do is turn of the PATS(Passive anti theft system) in the ECU and it will no longer look for the body control to make sure it has a valid key. All you need is a standard BF ECU and harness and talk to Chiptorque as they have done this conversion before. A much better option than wolf and much cheaper. PM me if you need help - I know what wiring changes need to be done.

To me the problems I have seen with pump failures are when the throttle limiter is removed and the fuel cut is used only to control the revs. But these where massively abused cars. The reason for the reileif valve mod from what I've heard is due to "The cam phasors not working properly over 6250rpm due to oil control". Now I'm not sure where this came from but I know for a fact that the cams will turn off electrically above this rpm meaning the cams will go from 20degrees retard to -10degree advance.

The problem is at this level of enigne control your relying on aftermarket ECUs having good PI control of both cam and ETC. In alot of ECU's you cant even get to these parameters, this means that your control system could be completely wrong. This is one area where Autronic is far ahead of the rest as there PI loops actually work. Would I do another SM4 on a falcon - absolutely not!!! WHY??? Because the cam phasing isn't as good as a BF ECU and you loose knock control!! And you will spend about the same amount of time wiring in the ecu and tuning it - as you would just tuning the factory ecu. All I can say is good luck with it - hope you get to charge out all of the time spent.

Is it that big of a problem with oil pump drive failure? Was there ever an issue with relief valve size?

The factory ecu will easily do 500rwkw - been there done that - it will also retained all the niceties of factory cold start and idle control, drivability, dash functions, power and auto control. The factory boost controller will do up to 25psi - I'm yet to find a nicer boost controller for the falcons!! While you may think that its as simple as wiring in an aftermarket ECU and tune away - keep in mind that to get factory cold start drivability and cam control you may spend up to 50hours and still not be any where near as nice as a factory ECU with a proper tune. If all your after is a WOT tune than I would say go for an aftermarket item.

We've looked at this setup for a few of the big cars we've done. The benefits would be similar to a split housing exh manifold and turbo in keeping exhuast back pressure down slightly and in the timing of the exh pulse. The other benefit would be in the exhuast as its lots easier to have 2 3in exh systems with three inch cats than a single 4in system with dual 4in cats. So twin turbo exhaust would be the favored design when compared to a big single turbo with a single exhuast system. The problem with alot of high hp cars is that its hard to get an exhaust which flows enough hp and is legal. Downsides include the turbo suffle you get with twins and the added frustration of working on the car. I would definately keep provisions in the exh manifolds for tuning of the wategate preload.

So have you got the VIpec in the car and running - is this a BA? We have managed to get the SM4 to work in the BA XR6T - cams working ok (I think a maximum of 25deg retard due to autronic setup problems). This was a cable throttle setup though. Factory BF ECU does better cam control though.

Geez you must be pushing the fuel system at that horsepower. What fuel????

No way in the world would I ever use a stand alone - not unless its a bosch motorsport ecu and you've got 20k for ECU and anther 20K for ecu calibration and tuning. The biggest problem with most aftermarket ECUs is that alot dont support drive by wire and cam phasing. And while some may say they can do it they wont do a very nice job of it.

1) Wastegate Actuator was standard, they are rated at approx 3psi, and when the PI controller was commanding duty cycle of 1, all it saw was 13psi high in the scale.. To fix this, turbo would come off, and you would replace the actuator with a 12psi actuator. Whilst the turbos off, you would also port the exhaust wastegate, and fit a bigger swing valve to combat any possible overboosting problems when the other mods below are done. Chances are either your exhuast is not good enough or you've got a big pressure drop accross the intercooler. that's why you couldn't get the boost in, a good trick is to measure the pressure pre intercooler - if the setup is correct then you should only get around 2psi drop at around 300rwkw. On the correct setup there is no reason you cant deliver a flat 15psi of boost pressure with the standard 4psi actuator.

Looks a little laggy - that's if the tacho number is correct. Boost is also wavey - does it sound sus on road?

The coil codes are probably from the overboost - ie to larger gap and the spark cannot ionise the gap. This is probably what is generating the coil missfire codes. Was there a forced shutdown code along with the TPS code?