Mildman

I have considered that but if I dont like the look of it too high. I'd rather buy a 4WD at least they look good the higher they get. that's why I'm concerned with a lowered XR. My lancer is pretty low at the moment and it has no problems with clearance....well not too many problems. I don't go driving in ruts or anything. I know my limits. I mean if the XR is too low (and I have to lower it if I get one) can I still be relatively close to the job site most times. I only do domestic so I can't see to many issues with this but I need to hear it from guys who have been in the situation. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Maybe there's something that I don't understand, but why does the ute "have to" be lowered. I've driven in an XR8 and a Pursuit (but not a T) that were not lowered and felt pretty good.... Is the mandatory lowering required to lower centre of gravity and this indirectly increase corner speed? or is the idea to stiffen rather than lower or is the lower for cosmetic considerations. (I guess I'm too much the engineer/nerd)

I did mine at 3000km too - as the engine is new maybe there are some contaminants that were in it when it was assembled. Maybe 2 metal parts were close to tolerance and dumped a few metal shavings into your sump.... Just in case any of these things were happening I got the oil changed. Could just be paranoia, but if something had happenend because I didn't do it I'd be kicking myself....even though it would still be under warranty. Matter of opinion I guess...

True, fair point. But I believe even in the case of the Power FC's etc... that much of the tuning is done be a tuning shop, and the main changes users make it push the boost up and down a bit, or play with the G-meter functions of these computers. I'm no tuning expert, but I played around a bit with aftermarket tuning a while back and this is what I noticed in about 7 or 8 different cars (mainly Nissan)...that the drivers themsleves didn't like changing values - even though they had bought the hand controllers....

I'd imagine you'd have to attempt some sort of market research too. How many people do you think would like to buy a device to tune their own car? In my opinion a lot of people who drive modified cars are happy to leave the tuning to an expert more because they do feel the have to skill rather than because the tuning interface isn't easy. Just a thought.... I've thought up a few devices that I think are really cool and handy...just seemed that not many people shared my point of view.

I imagine at Nizpro they could also show amount of knock? To show how close they are getting to the limits of the fuel prior to pre-ignition. I'm looking forward to tuning my baby in the future, will leave it alone a bit longer - till the lease runs out. Was a ricer in an R32 in a previous life so familiar with kidney crushing boost.

Ah yes, but is that 95RON, 98RON, or 100RON premium? I bet they mean 95RON, which is the petrol I think is the limit for a stock tune car. I belive the cleaner comment is true too, and I much prefer using 95 premium over 91. (The whole reason I couldn't in the beginning was due to a fuel card problem). The rest of my point of view is that 98/100 octance fuel is wasted on a stock XR6T. The ignition maps are not designed to be able to take advantage of the higher octane fuel, and due to the quicker expiry of higher octane fuel (about 3-5 weeks from the day it is made) it means that in the higher octane stuff, which is sold in lower volumes, goes off and the octane rating drops. I can't actually prove this expiry of higher octane petrol though....so no one sue me here, but it makes sense.

At the risk of stating the obvious, would calling it a "10 spoke rim" be a good enough description when you ring around wheel suppliers?

Again from my cal friend, he tells me I should see at least a 5% increase in efficiency on 95 compared to 91, and the price difference at the moment? 91 is about 1.20/l 95 is may 1.27/l that's about 5.8% more expensive....so pretty close to equal. The added benefit is the car will be a bit more powerful (5%+) and you'll get a bit better economy. Found this ACA story about premium petrol too whilst I was trying to work out the PULP price. http://aca.ninemsn.com.au/stories/2041.asp

I still don't think you get it. The PCM after editing will work just like it did before, the program is still basically the same with all the same features. The tuner has just changed the values in the tables to suit whatever it is they've done. So the knock sensor will work just like it did before as long as it hasn't been disabled. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yeah I get it now, I was just not familiar in how invasive the edit tune was, if it is only changing values in tables then I'd agree the knock sensor function would still work fine. Just means if you got some dodgy petrol that you'd be a bit down on power as the ignition retards. That is of course assuming that the retard values in the knock sensor event tables aren't edited too....but I'd doubt they would be. Now that's a fair point, it is theoretically possible to advance it way too far, further than the knock sensors can retard.....

Why would the wheels spin with cruise on? They are aiming for a target speed. If the car breaks traction the wheels will be spinning at a speed faster than required so the car will deaccelarate to try and get back to the required speed. Plus the ABS/TCS/ESP computer is smart enough to know the difference in 'Mu' of the road surface

My engine calibrater friend has gone futher to say that no Aussie car is calibrated for 98RON, and furthermore due to the lower volume of sales on 98RON fuel it is likely to be close to off when you buy it.... Not sure about japanese cars, but only the sports type euro cars are calibrated for fuel better the 95RON, it's probably the same case with Jap cars too. Maybe with edit/unichip the calibration takes advantage of 98RON fuel, but with the fuel variability issue you'd want to make sure your fuels good, or the knock sensors are still active and can retard ignition.

Just got the following quote, from Something about fuels "We have heard rumours of the Shell Optimax having only 22 days shelf-life compared to the BP Ultimate 43 day shelf-life, meaning by the time it's manufactured to the time it gets transported to the bowsers, then into your tank and used up, it's shelf-life is almost up, meaning you are using fuel which is almost off ... and yes, just in case you didn't know, fuel definitely does go off!!" In either case....you pull into a country servo and pick up some premium that has been sitting there a few weeks - you might not be getting what you payed for.

Seems to support my theory...what's the price difference between 95 & 98 at the moment.?

Yeah I wouldn't doubt with a modified ignition map that you could take advantage of higher than 95RON, as long as you buy it from a high volume station...as I have been informed that the higher octane fuel has an expiry date essentially - thus there will be more variation in higher octance fuels. I imagine this could be trouble if you ignition advance / boost are tuned right on the edge assuming a pure fuel. I'm waiting to hear back from my bud the engine cal guy re: if the stock computer can do anything with 98RON+ or if it was just the variation that worried him. Depending on how the edit works I can't see why it could not still take a signal from the knock sensor and retard the timing accordingly...I don't know how sophisticated the edit mapping is....I'm sure someone else does though.

I'll ask, but I belive the reason is that the Visteon computer has two advance ranges in it one suited to 91RON and a high end advance curve suited to 95RON. The stock computer wont continue to advance past these maximum values. I'll see if I can confirm this too.

Hey all, I asked this question to a friend of mine who creates OE calibrations for at least one OE customer. He tells me that it takes about half a tank for the Visteon EMS system...and I quote. "The engine will always attempt to run on knock limit for best performance unless other conditions tell otherwise such as knock sensors. The driving dynamics will speed up the adaptions, as greater spread of the map is used and therefore should increase the adaption time faster. Less than half a tank will do it" He goes on to say that 98RON and 100RON are not worth putting in the tank, and to stick with a servo with high fuel turnover for my 95RON. The higher the RON, the more volatiles, the quicker it 'goes off'. This info answered my question, and hopefully in posting the answer it saves a few more of us asking the question.

Hey all, First major question to this forum.... I have a BF XR6T, stock. I've been using 91RON since I bought the car in Nov last year. I've now switched over to 95RON. I was wondering how long it would take the engine management computer to work this out, and advance the timing accordingly, as I want to gain the benefits of the higher octane fuel. Reason for using 91RON, fuel card wouldn't let me use Premium....and now it does! Appreciate your input Mildman BF XR6T Stock 1/4 mile: ???

I'm no racing expert, but I imagine he is running Motec for the data logging capabilities. This is one thing Motec excells at.

So does this mean we and the rest of the world are finally catching on to what Japan has been doing since the 70's? At least we have caught on, pity it took more the 30years to do so! I wonder if Expensive Daewoo will ever catch on? Still running McPherson Struts...maybe not.

Is there any special installation required due to the airbag unit? Or is it just another connector that needs to be plugged in?

These things do happen when you try to push it on a public road I guess. That's what they build race tracks for..... oops seems I turned into an old man. As a teenager it was cool to drive as fast as physically possible on public roads, a few deaths later it wasn't so fun anymore. Whoa - I'm done. Interested to know how your car 'gave way' too. Did it break traction, or did a mechanical component give way causes the car to slide?

Your problem sounds more serious - but I think most cars have this problem with first especially if you sit at the lights with your clutch in for a while. The best solution I've come across over the years is to put the car in neutral, take the foot of the clutch, give it a couple of revs (2000pm is fine), then put foot back on clutch and put it first. I have a feeling sometimes if everything isn't spinning when you try and engage a gear it can be trouble.

I picked up my BF XR6T in a 6spd manual - and although it pulls pretty hard the torque seems to climb so gradually that you don't feel the boost at all. I came from an R32 Skyline which would noticably pin you to the seat at 5000rpm, the XR6T just doesn't feel like that - although both actually accelerate about the same the Falcon is just so much smoother and with ESP almost impossible to loose around a corner (unlike a Skyline). Maybe with a Phase 2 kit the pinned to the seat feeling returns... As to when to mod - I would recommend you at least get to the 3000km inspection before doing anything - incase there are some engine dramas, it would be nice for them to be covered under warranty. Glad to be a driving member,

Google, whilst looking at mods for the XR6T - as I pick one up next week