Mildman

I've ticked over a bit over 10,000kms in my BFT.

I also have a bit of a floating centre point in my car, the wheel can wander a little.... My current theory is it could have to do with the loose steering rack - I've got a fairly quiet clunk in mine which tells me it is starting to loosen. I will get that repairer under warranty when I can be bothered and see if it makes a difference.

You make some good points, I drive a 6-spd manual. Reason: I like driving manuals. I like heel-toe downshifting, an experience you miss out on with an auto. Even if the auto is faster, when I really think about it it's all about the driving experience. Maybe next XR6T I'll look into this auto again... I understand ION are making a locally produced 6spd auto too...this might be the one that ends up in the Holden. (I'm not sure who ION are making the 6-spd for)

Clearly you didn't read the PCOTY edition of Motor magazine and see that the track times of the manual and the auto BF XR6T. The manual was FASTER than the auto around the race track. ← REALLY? What a revelation. The track times is the only thing a manual has going for it - read back through the last three pages of b!tchfighting and you should be able to figure this out. And there is also a concept called torque lockup.....but I won't bore you with that. ← Yeah after I posted this (after only reading most of the first page) I kinda worked that out....different strokes for different folks I think some it up - It's like arguing which is better chocolate or vanilla a bunch of biased and subjective arguments will be put forward, no one will agree or even understand the other side of the argument, and then a few people will release their inner b**ch, someone will take offence and before you know it we have 3 pages of emoticons. How about this autos are better if you like autos and manuals are better if you like manuals.

Clearly you didn't read the PCOTY edition of Motor magazine and see that the track times of the manual and the auto BF XR6T. The manual was FASTER than the auto around the race track. By faster you must mean in a straight line I guess, as you couldn't mean top speed either, as with less drive train losses in the manual than the auto the manual will have a higher top speed too.

Jefferson Ford haven't been too bad to me.... Only major complaint out of them so far is I got the T back from it's 3000km inspection and the wheel alignment was out...don't know if they hit a gutter or just tightened the steering rack. They gave me a wheel alignment when I took it back so as was well. That was Frankston Jefferson. Apparently Mornington is meant to be a bit better? They haven't done anything really stupid anyway, which makes them better than a few of the dealerships I've heard described in this forum.

He's totally right about it being serious sh*t, loosing ABS isn't too bad, but if TCS, traction control comes on when you don't want it too it could get a little awkward...even more awkward if the kids are in the car, your going around a roundabout in the wet, TCS comes on and lanches the rear quarter of your car into a pole....writing that letter sounds like a fair plan.

The ABS, TCS system works with wheel speed sensors and brake fluid pressure sensors. If any one of these sensors is malfunctioning the warning lights would come on. It's a serious safety concern and I'd say the dealer should even now cover it under warranty. I'm sure there are other reasons for the ABS warning lights to come on, but the sensors are probably the most fragile part of the system.

That's a fairly convincing recommendation, definitely worth considering. I haven't done the price comparisons yet between the 3 companies either. Nizpro: $8250 HP-F: $4995 APS: (not on their website)

I did finally check it out, and it may interest people to know that on the official 'marketing' specs in these sales brouchures that the weight of manual and auto faclons are as so. (The brouchure claims that the kerb weight is based on an XT auto, so there are no actual stated weights for manuals BA Mk 1: 1694kg BA Mk 2: 1694kg BF Mk 1: 1694kg Hmm....somthing seems a bit fishy there. I think Ford have engaged in some 'Ctrl C, Ctrl V' action in their marketing material

I must admit I had not considered the intake angle but I understand the theory. You can remove pressure drops from either turbine in the turbo to allow it to boost up quicker and spin faster. So Nizpro remove restriction from the intake, whilst HP-F and APS remove restriction from the exhaust. I'm unable to judge which approach is superior.....anyone else got an idea? I guess the easy way to know you've done the right thing is do both!

Numbers a little small on tacho and speedo...

I agree, someone has made some generous estimates of drive train losses I would imagine....I'd doubt the gearbox and diff oil would be able to dissapate 100+kW of heat. As to some conclusions: I'm still a little confused why Nizpro go for a bigger intercooler but no upgrade to the exhaust. - unless the factory exhaust does indeed flow that well. They all upgrade injectors and add the XR8 CAI under the headlight. Nizpro seem to advertise the most holistic approach, but the intercooler/no exhaust decision doesn't seem right. The impression I had with exhausts was that APS make the highest quality XR6T exhaust, the CAI is the same all-round, the injectors probably don't vary much between kits. (Although I haven't heard much about the quality of the Turbo back Diflippo exhaust system with high flow cat.) I think I understand your point to, which is with just an CAPA custom tune you can make some serious power with having to do the hardware upgrades. - My main goal would be to have a car that will travel in the high 12's, without being a pig to drive - Best way to continue with researching potential mod strategies will have to be chatting to guys on the XR6T cruises!

Hmm...had a look at the Nizpro hardware (apologies for any thread highjacking) To summarise: Nizpro: Edit with bigger injectors, intercooler and CAI approx 395fwkw ??rwkw HP-F : Edit with bigger injectiors, exhaust, CAI, valve springs approx 294rwkw (400fwkw) APS : Unichip with bigger injectors, exhaust, CAI. 290rwkw (330fwkw) Interesting the difference between APS and HP-F with the same rwkw and vastly different fwkw.... Lunch time - will edit with some conclusions later

I've been studying up on some of the most effective and reliable mods out there for the T, the conclusion I keep coming to is. APS Phase 2 Hardware (by APS) Custom EDIT (by HPF or Nizpro) an easy $10K I'd say but done once, done right. If only APS were as skilled at Edit as HPF or Nizpro - they could then be a one stop shop. Disclaimer: As I haven't got the mods it's all just fancy book learning here...

Geez I hope the Melbourne circuits don't have the same rule...it's been over a year since I raced at PI or Sandown, so had never heard of this rule. Maybe they saw the stupid BF idea to hold your fuel cap onto the neck with a bit of plastic string and were inspired to do the same with the sump plug.... I'm looking forward to giving the stock BF Manual a 1/4 time after Easter. I'm hoping to get a low 14 as this seems to be the general expectation....but given my lack of 1/4 mile practice maybe a 15 would be good enough on my first outing.

I found this during some web surfing the other week more discussion in this thread Petrol thread

Ahh too easy. All the talk of tail shaft straps was starting to get me worried. I had to weld a strap onto a little Datto I sometimes circuit race for scruitineering, am glad I don't have to do the same for the T. Thanks for the quick response.

Hey all, I imagine there is a fair bit of 1/4 mile experience on this forum, I'd like to know if any preparation of the car (and driver) is required for the car to be considered safe to the scruitineering guys. Specifically I'm talking about Calder Park Vic. I got this from the Calder website and this A little misleading and sometimes they repeat the same text..... When you roll up at Calder with a stock XR6T what do they require you to do (besides wear a helmet and long sleeves that aren't soaked in petrol?) These two points I was particularly unsure about. (if they are either already there or need to be fitted to car)

Yeah considering they charge you over $1000 'dealer delivery' to NOT check for scratches, dents, etc...

The stock Ford engine management computer can take advantage of premium fuel up to an octane rating of 95, so a 96 octane ethanol mix would be pretty good (to account for the variation in octane) Preimum Fuel has a 'service life' of around 4 weeks from the day it is made before it starts to go 'off' and reduce it's octance (that's where the variation in octane can come from)

Yep I can confirm you just hold the button down for a few seconds and the stability control light comes up on the dash - which looks like a slippery when wet sign. Oh and the DSC replaces traction control, as the stabilty program (DSC) includes ABS, TCS and ESP. Where ESP=DSC abd TCS=T/C. So the DSC has three functions in one!

Well I can at least say the goal was to lighten by 100kg. I know the starter motor is 1.4kg lighter in the BF. (As I know the design engineer who supplied it to Ford) I'll see if I can come up with something the accounts for the other 98.6kg. I have a feeling though that Ford did not realise it's 100kg weigh saving goal....maybe an actual Ford employee could give us the full run down....

I would second the upgraded suspension theory. As I know the BF was meant to be fitted with this cost down suspension, but due to supplier problems it was not ready in time for the BF release. I believe it is also an upgrade in ride quality as the dampner settings were recalibrated....but the foremost reason for the suspension changes was as a cost down measure.

The BF also weighs considerably less than the BA - I believe it is close to 100kg lighter, thus gets of the line a lot quicker.