Mildman

So if the factory offers the option of 17's or 18's - is the DSC performance compromised when you go to a 18 inch wheel? Or is Ford able to alter the calibration slighty for the 18's?

Looks like you killed this thread again replicant! hehe

If you change wheels there is no need to recalibrate the DSC system (assume the rolling diameter is pretty much the same). If you stiffen the suspension it will effect the DSC calibration a bit. If you change the braking system (bigger calipers) it will screw it up a lot. Works on wheel speed sensors - so as long as those 19's have low profile tyres (35 or so profile) you'll be fine

$30,000 BF T's! Now that is ridiculously cheap! I'm trading mine in for $33,500 this week!

Double checked with Bosch - talked to the product manager of filters....apparently they are a while away from offering them in Australia. Gotta get all sorts of approvals and so on.

Guess that makes you a Ford employee? or work for a supplier that Ford like? Or were you able to get the discount without being someone special to Ford....?

...and so the house of cards I had so carefully built falls. Time to put my car on a dyno and work out where torque drops off, till then I start changed at 4500rpm, not 5500rpm and try and quantify the distance. What software is that by the way?

Thinking further - what use is a quoted power figure? I can be very misleading to the performance of a car. All it tells you is how far into the rev range the engine can hold torque. I guess then power tells you how quickly to torque curve drops off....but it can be very easily manipulated by achieving a very high gradient torque curve at high rpm - which will have no relation to the cars ability to accelerate. Why do we use power to compare the performance of cars?

Whoah....my brain just exploded HP =X Acceleration (doesn't equal) Torque=Acceleration! So I'll assume that all those race guys (proffesional ones) will be shifting at a point where their torque is starting to drop off - likely a valid assumption. I guess then an NA car want to rev hard - as they can produce more torque by revving hard (sucking in more air per second?) Hmmm think some more.

But then doesn't that defeat the argument of changing in the peak torque band - as a V8 supercar will change at peak horsepower? no peak torque?

Thanks tab - I might go check my current turbs (which has no pollen filter) and see if it has one of those covers. I looked at the pic in the ryco site and it does look like it comes with one of those covers.

Well learn something new everyday. I thought Torque=push HP = acceleration Then would it be reasonable to say that a V8 supercar has peak torque all the way up to the 7500rpm or so rev limit?

Crap so if New Oak are trouble...who does it leave> New Oak, Wignal, Jefferson and Coffey I've heard Coffey are REALLy bad. Wignal are maybe OK, Jefferson I've heard are a little dodge... Maybe they are all as bad as each other. Anyone had a good experience? I though I'd had a good experience at New Oak, (where they fixed a slow oil leak) - but a few months later I realised they haven't fixed it at all.

I think you may be right that it depends on who talks to you....here is the copy/paste of the response I got from Castrol. -----Original Message----- From: Castrol Technical Enquiries [mailto:CastrolTechnicalEnquiries@se1.bp.com] Sent: Tuesday, 24 October 2006 9:29 AM To: (Me) Subject: FW: Castrol.com | Technical Enquiries | Technical Enquiries Importance: High Hi Mildman, Thank you for your enquiry to Castrol Technical. For a Ford BF Falcon Mk 2 XR6 Turbo (4.0L Turbo), Castrol recommends Castrol Edge Sport 10W/60 engine oil as the primary recommendation, you may also use Castrol Edge 0W/40 or Castrol Magnatec. These recommendations are for the engine after it has been run in, we do not have the Ford specification for the running in oil, and recommend you use the Ford genuine oil for run in. The major difference between Edge 10W/60 and Edge 0W/40 is the viscosity, the Edge 10W/60 is a thicker oil than the Edge 0W/40. Castrol Magnatec is a 10W/40 semi-synthetic engine oil which is a thinner grade than the Castrol GTX 3 which is mineral oil based 15W/40 engine oil. If you have any further queries, please call us on 1300 557998. Castrol Technical. From: BP.com Contact us To:CastrolTechnicalEnquiries@castrol.com.au Subject: Castrol.com | Technical Enquiries | Technical Enquiries Date & Time :23/10/2006 16:29:6 Salutation :Mr. FirstName :Mild LastName :Man EmailAddress : Mail Address1 : Mail Address2 : City : State : Country :Australia Postal Code : Telephone : Fax : Message :I am about to buy a Ford BF Falcon Mk 2 XR6 Turbo (4.0L Turbo). I would like to know what oil you recommend. 1: To run in the engine 2: To use once the engine is run in. I'm am confused about the difference between Edge 10W60 and 0W40. Also the difference between GTX3 and Magnatec. Look forward to your response,

But horsepower continues to rise after torque starts dropping off, and hp means acceleration right? I have always thought changing after the hp peak gave maximum acceleration. I'll have to go down the 1/4 and see for myself - as all the motor racing you watch in TV the change pretty much at the rev limiter, they don't short shift when they want to accelerate as quickly as possible.

So which dealer was it? I'm sure it's not against the rules to advertise good service. I'm trying to decide between New Oak, Wignal, Jefferson and Coffey for service. I'm sort of leaning towards New Oak at the moment.

Just to open to oil can of worms some more - I emailed Castrol with the question of best running in oil and best oil to use post running in. The recommended GTX3 15W40 for running in - although the disclaimered it by saying they don't know what Ford's running in oil spec is. They said GTX3 as it was a true mineral oil. Magnatec was the 2nd recommendation as it is a semi-synthtetic 10W40. After run in the recommended the 10W60 Edge. I'm still of the view that 0W40 would be better for the turbs as it matches the operatring viscosity better....but will decide post running in what is better.

So peak torque? Not peak horsepower? Because technically peak torque in a stocker BF is 480Nm @ 2000rpm - so I wouldn't shift there obviously....

I see where you a coming from, and my circuit car also has a manual box (only a 5 spd) but that's the car I drive for fun. For the daily driver the auto works out better, but only because it's the ZF auto - I never previously owned and auto car as until now the gap between auto and manual has been huge! Man you've got guts using an FPV as a circuit car....well money I guess not guts....still I could never quite do it. My circuit car cost around $3000, it's as fast as a Ford around the track, and cheaper to fix when/if I crash it....got a roll cage too so I don't die when it rolls over....YAY!

So the mesh filter is glued to the cover I guess (that's why you need to buy a new cover)? Also if you don't order a pollen filter at all intially sounds like it makes no difference to this operation, am I right?

I went for a drive checking the speed and revs in changes. I assume the FPV diff ratio is different as 80-85 kph for me is 4500rpm. If I short shift at 4500rpm it's pretty dissapointing way to far from peak power. I must admit the gearbox shifts quite easily into first at that rpm, but not quite as sastisfying as shift whilst under some serious (stock) boost. I'll have to drive an F6 one day to see what you mean. For me in stock form peak power is 245kW @ 5350rpm - so I'd need to be above this on shifting gears to make the most of the drivetrain.

I'll give it a try tonight - I'm only changing at 100kph as that is about 6000rpm (the rev limit). This seems to be quicker than short shifting 2nd - but as I have never gone down the quarter to check....I could never be sure.

Hmmmm...too late now - getting traded in a few weeks - but fair point.

I have been given the impression that the ZF auto is quicker down the 1/4 mile in stock form than the manual. And I can tell you from experience that sometimes the car isn't so interested in changing into 3rd gear at full noise at around 100 kph (end of 2nd gear). Mostly due to my crappy clutch work, but I don't think that is the only reason. I used to drive skylines and never had these shifting issues in those - and they revved a lot higher. At the end of the day I think just go with what you want - the technical articles are of little real world interest, even the theoretical 1/4 mile considerations. The decision I believe is now personal, they are simply at least equal in their capabilties - and each have their advantages. Auto tow better, get better fuel economy, (maybe make better power) Manual heel toe better, make the drive a bit more involved (using another foot). So what do you want out of the car? Will it drive 1/4 all day? Is it a dedicated circuit weapon? A daily driver with some poke?

Wow - I didn't realise that...bummer I guess that means I can't drive an auto now, becuase some dude on a forum might call me a pussy....cut me deep. Guess I better call you a shirt lifter so this cool exchange of insults can continue...