Mildman

Appreciate all the responses - sounds like shifting from N or P to D and back again at the lights is a waste of time and worse for the transmission anyway. I'd like to be able to just pull the handbrake though rather than lean on the foot brake all the time - we'll see how that goes. I've been leaving it mostly in Perf mode - and did my gradual build up to 2nd and 3rd gear full throttle runs within the first 60km on the Odo. Will sort some pics by the weekend - it's the hamburger with the lot re options even the sports steering wheel. I must say I think it might be a little quicker than the manual I owned before this (which measured 245rwkw at XTC - completely stock). I'd be interested to see what this would one will put out at the wheels. Thanks again - I've driven plenty of autos, just never owned one, so I wanted to do the right thing by it from new.

Hey all, Just picked up my XR6T BF2 auto in Neo. It's the first time I've ever owned an auto and wonder about some of the simple stuff like: When you are sitting at the lights do you leave it in D and stand on the foot brake pedal, or drop it into N and pull on the handbrake, or click it back to P with no handbrake. Just doesn't feel right just riding the foot brake in D, as with the manual you would always be in neutral or in 1st with clutch down and handbake on. Interested in what others do, if there is a way that is best for the engine/trans - or if it just doesn't matter at all.

Have a read through this thread....very good info. http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...4&hl=running-in

Sounds like those hooks are crapo I guess - I find my car mats creep up under the accelerator sometimes and it gets stuck down. I wanted to try out the fitment on the current T before I trade it in - if I had the instructions I would just read them. I don't want to go hacking up the floor of the car for no reason...

So I lost the instructions on how to install my floor mat hooks. I seem to remember I have to cut a cross? into the floor carpet where I want the hooks to go...or was it drill a little hole - can't remember. Could someone fill in the horrendous gaps in my memory?

It maybe too late now - but what about running in your engine? That should be something you do on the day you pick it up!

That's a BFT brake package...you've got a BF yeah?

Try and get a good trade in deal when buying your T (as Ford dealers are pretty desperate at the mo'). If the trade price is more than your pay out figure you've got it made! Selling cars privately is really hard and really slow!

0.012!

With a leasecar at the end of the lease term there is a residual value - to sell the car you must first buy it with your $$$ then sell it to whoever. (If you are trading in you want have to buy with your $$ the dealer will give you a cheque for the difference). If the lease hasn't finished yet you have to contact the lease company and ask them for the payout figure - then as above you can buy it.

I think just doing a little research on the web, will give you a better idea what to look for than paying someone to do a half arsed job checking a car for you. I did the inspections on cars for my brother and old man - simple stuff is all that is required. Heat it up take it for a drive check for a smoky exhaust, does it ping under load?, evidence of overheating?, check condition of gaskets, climb underneath see if anything is bent or missing a rubber cover....there's not much else you need to check. It's amazing how obvious most car problems are - like radiator overflow bottles that are melted, oil seeping out the head gasket etc...

Hmmm XT? How does this compate with XR6T?

Oh yeah forgot incorrect timing - over revving could be seen as lack of oil...sometimes - or change down to wrong gear I guess.

Roger that I'll give you a buzz in the morn...appreciate it (in advance)

I'd support 0W40 Edge - with a slow oil leak out the timing cover in my current T - I think adding to the oil pressure with 10W60 might not be the best thing? I'm going to play it safe running 0W40 as it is the same spec as in the manual for operating viscosity....unless running a thicker oil is of a benefit for these cars - that's what I'm not sure on.

Hi all, I am planning to put my T on the rollers tomorrow to see the torque curve, to understand the best rpm to change gears. I really want to know torque vs rpm - most dyno places can only offer tractive effort in my area. What variables should I asked to be plotted? Torque Power AFR Boost Tractive effort Also how tough is it for a dyno operator to get to a engine torque figure. I thought it was just gear raitos and wheel diameter.... As for graphs I was thinking of Torque (or Tractive) vs Power, and Torque vs AFR vs Boost.

Slow oil leak from timing cover...but you don't have engine problems as a category...

Lack of oil, lack of water, lack of air, lack of fuel. That would probably cover most scenarios. I'd say lack of oil would be No.1 that's when you do bottom end damage. Lack of water No.2 top end damage Lack of fuel/air - mainly lean out and cook the motor like No.2

If only some performance shop would try both - do some sort of tests and make some recommendations based on the evidence. It seems either oil is OK, but dammit which one it better. I'm a nerdy engineer and I MUST KNOW!

What's RRP on a BF Turbs optioned....about $50K Got trade of around $30K 12 months later. I'd say you'll lose $20K in year one, with $15K of that in the first 6 months. Probs $5K the year after that. If you get employee pricing your residual value will probably be ahead of the trade in.....just.

1dar3u - Funny my first Falcon was a BA XR6, then moved into a BF XR6T - maybe by the time the Orion (new Falcon) is out - you'll be able to get a turbo!

How much does the WRX go for on the open market? Could you sell it privately to remove your debt on the car. Don't worry I've been there (where you are now) - borrowed $20K to buy a R32 skyline at the start of the decade....took me 3-4 years to pay it off, sold it for 11.5K. Leasing these days is so much easier, as long as you have an employer who will let you.

By the way what would you need a boost guage for? Fair enough if it's just to look 'cool' - was just wondering if there was any technical reason for it.

A few guys at work have the F6 - they think it's a little hardcorde for a daily driver. I actually haven't driven one as yet - but used to kick about in a Skyline which was a bit too stiff for comfortable daily driving too - so I imagine your F6 is along those lines..but if you not after comfort got for it!

I've a BF 6spd manual turbs with absolutely no problem spinning the wheels of the line (on stock rubber). With traction on it will allow a spin to but will axle tramp.