Mildman

The I-mate JAM, (same spec as the 02 XDA Mini).

Couldn't fix it myself in the end - I got Ford to reset the bluetooth module at service....forgot to ask them how they did it - but it definitely fixed it.

Get the Sports steering wheel too. After a year with the sports wheel I drove one with a normal wheel for a week....it was the most awful driving experience! you forget just how good that steering wheel is until you are without it.

Hey all Well I got the OEM bluetooth in the new turbs, was working fine for about 2 days, then I had the misfortune of answering a call with the phone (imate jam) at exactly the moment that it was about to pair to the bluetooth kit. I'd just started the car as the phone rang. Now I cannot get the phone to pair with the car kit anymore. It is strange I can delete the bluetooth device from the phone then try to find it again. The device can be found - but no longer accepts the 0000 passcode. If I just hit next on my device is goes ahead and adds the device without using the passcode. But then it will not pair with the phone. I have hard reset the PDA, and tried again, still no luck. Is there a way to reset the Ford bluetooth module? Has anyone else solved a similar problem?

Nasty....I thought that ESP, or DSC whatever Ford call it was standard on all turbos - it prevents these kind of accidents.....or didn't it become standard till the BF? I definitely had DSC on one of first BF's

Cool - goes to show how quick these things are straight off the factory floor - I just hope the new one is just as fast. Running 13's in your comfortable daily is a dream come true I'd say.

I managed 14.4 in a stock BF Manual Sedan, then 13.80 in a stock BF2 auto sedan....the auto made a lot of difference. Are all your times utes? or are there other sedans in the 13's stock. (I did mine at Heathcote on a hot day)

It does indeed sound device dependant....I vaugley understand that there could be a handsfree and headset profile in the bluetooth and if the two devices were able to connect to different profiles they might both be able to be used. I'll have a bit of a muck around over the weekend when I get the new car....apparently the new darker rims don't look too bad against Neo. Thanks for the replys too.

Hey all, Just about to pick up the new car (BF II Turbo in the new bodykit - Neo). It has the OEM bluetooth kit in it, which I'll probably use a bit for the phone. Till now I have been using a Jabra Bluetooth headset. Is it possible to pair both devices and decide when the phone rings which device to answer with? E.g if you have people in the car....but want to have a more private call answer with the headset, or a less private call answer with the OEM car kit. Is this possible? (My Bluetooth knowledge is still a little sketchy)

I'm sure when running in that third was still going at around 180kph...

BA or BF? BF should be high 20's (may mid 20's with those k's) BA should be low 20's

Mine BF2 T does this same thing, giving it 1 rev (to about 2000) and 10sec after turning the key to warm up and it's fine..... Not as extreme as the old days letting cars warm up for 3-4 mins.....guess technology is advancing....

I expect to offload one in Dec 07 (12 months old, T, all options except leather) for around $34K....don't know if that is percieved as a good price. It will have 25K on the clock too.

Mine measured a little high and had the dyno operator pretty excited. 245rwkw BF T Manual. I'm assured his dyno was accurate....but you be the judge. I was able to flat shift through the gears as well, which is meant to be impossible in a manual T (Unedited) so who knows maybe I had a police tune or something...

How much does this stuff differ from the Ford paint protection stuff?

He did say it was VERY unusual, even took it for a drive (with me in the pass seat) and told me he thought it would be good for a low 13 down the quarter. He was also very suprised that it would flat shift - this apparently is somthing a stock T should be able to do (in a manual). I only did three runs with it and it was my first time at the drags so a 14.4 @ 102 is unlikely to be the best it could do...guess it will remain a mystery now. Just thought I'd put it out there to see if anyone else had had a similar experience. I also heard from a Ford service centre recently that there was a technical bulletin from Ford telling them to detune a number of T's as they were quite a bit too fast from the factory. I guess mine could have been one of them. My new one feels roughly as fast too, and I must admit the 1 of the two auto T's I test drove was really slow and the other felt around about as fast as the one I know own. So who knows maybe there a fair bit of power variation in these cars?

If it's manual at rest put it in 5th or 6th and let the clutch out - if it stalls the clutch is OK, if it doesn't stall it's likely been thrashed. Listen for whines when driving it. Look under the bonnet for oil leaks - around timing cover I had one on my old T. Once the cars warm (after a drive maybe) give it some revs at idle and look for grey smoke out the exhaust - grey=bad, black=rich so probably OK.

Think that would tell me enough - I'm not looking to brag the car was traded a while ago...it did a trap speed of 102mph on my best effort - but I suck at drags, not enough corners and braking for my liking.

Hey all Interested what the highest recorded rwkw has been for a stock out the factory XR6T. I ask as mine measured 245rwkw on Dynowogs dyno a little while ago which seemed a little high for stock - but as I owned it from brand new there is no way it had been fiddled with. Anyone noticed a higher figure? Sadly I traded that car in, don't know if the new one will be so quick...

Yeah I'd agree - no tax. Trade in are easily - as the car is sold straight away.....but if your not buying a new car...maybe check what the dealers will offer you. I'm not sure how easy T's are to sell privately - but I really struggled with an XR6 (no T) and a Skyline - no one wanted to buy either of them....ended up getting more for trade than anyone would offer me on either car.

I'd agree Edit for power and just a higher friction brand of brake pad. I wouldn't worry too much about slotted rotors - they don't really do much to increase braking force and they will triple to brake dust on your rims.

Are you sure you pay tax when you sell an asset you own that is not a house? If you buy out the car then sell it surely you can't be made to pay tax on the profit? Or am I reading your statements wrong?

Brief highjack - what rwkw would you expect (roughly) with a 101 mph?

Thanks for the advice I undertook a pretty good run in procedure - ending up with some 2nd and 3rd gear full throttle runs (before I clicked 50ks on the ODO). I'll try a few launches soon too - just getting used to these new controls. So launching is just loading up the torque convertor by braking and accelerating at the same time (when stationary) then dumping the accelerator and lifting of the brake at the same time. I imagine there is a bit of an art to it......

If the Dynowog sees this post he can verify that measurement - he was more surprised than anyone...and maybe he can explain. I've no need to talk it up as I don't even own it now. I found it pretty hard to belive too- it didn't change the fact though. Something tells me there is a great discrepancy to the quoted power on the sales brouchers and the actual cars performance. I believe DW's prediction was a 13.5 for the car - I only tried 1/4 miling it once (first time ever), 3 runs best was the first at 14.4 @ 102ish mph (can't quite remember the mph figure)- but with no skills in a good launch etc... I thing someone with some ability would have been able to make it go faster.