kosmo90

Final update: The only reason the dash light was still on was because I hadnt replaced the interior light fuse, as soon as I did that everything went back to normal. Thanks for everyones help, I can now remove interior door trims and disconnect/remove the locks in no time at all. Might come in handy in the future

Update: car now locks with the remote and key. Door open light is still on the dash but it must be drying out

Update: car now locks with the remote and key. Door open light is still on the dash but it must be drying out

Hopefully wont come to that, im sure its water ingress. If I did need a new BCM, couldnt I just buy a second hand one and get it reprogrammed like I might if I upgraded to colour ICC??? Mmm something to think about........ If I cant find the fault, I'll take it to Ford for a scan and go from there. I'll give it a week or so, let it dry out

Hi guys, Phil, pulled them all apart today and theyre all sweet (wish it was that simple), all the doors lock just fine in that 3 seconds before it unlocks. Also tried disconnecting each one but doesnt do anything different apart from the drivers door which causes a lock/unlock frenzy until I plug it back in. Might have to find a few speed humps to hit (my luck the front bumper will fall off) At the moment ive pulled the cruise and interior light fuses, also diconnected the outside door handles just leaving the drivers door to get in and out of to stop theft and create a pain for passengers. The dash light stays on so if that ever goes out, ill know the water's drained from whatever the hell its gotten into. Does anyone know if any of the code readers can pick a specific door that's open? or is just Fords wds? Edit: come to think of it, I only noticed that microswitch with A4 12 written on it in the above picture on the drivers door actuator.

Update: took all the actuators off and checked/ cleaned everything but still no go. There was water in the passenger side plug but that's been dispersed now

BA falcon central locking keeps unlocking itself. Doors are closed but the dash light (ign on) and interior light stay on as if the doors are open. All the actuators work (car does lock for a couple of seconds) It was after the rain in Perth today so maybe water ingress? I've tried disconnecting all the actuators one by one but nothing seems to work. Strange problem!! Using the key to lock and it does the same thing. Anybody got any ideas what to check??

ba18a1@gmail.com Thanks Bara

Thanks for the offer but I already have the gregory's manual. Unless you have something in the PDF's? I'm just looking for first hand experience before I unbolt the fuse box and go for a look. Edit: BA 2004

Does anyone know the mounting depth of the door speakers on a ba-bf? Looking at putting some 6.5 inch comps in there but don't want to find out they don't fit after shelling out hundreds. The only post that ive found says 65mm but it doesnt say the width of the adapter.

Hey guys, new to the forum and xr6's. Can anyone recommend somewhere to replace the valve springs on a ba xr6t? Bought it last week stock, with a full service history. I know it doesnt mean much and sh*t breaks but ive replaced the turbo oil feed line and waiting for a tranny cooler. Looking at the forums, that looks like the best future proofing that I can do without beefing up the 4speed. Not going to go bonkers on a tune, just a bigger replacement intercooler, injectors and tune. Cant find a stock airbox anywhere though, the car has an ss big mouth that had melted at the intake part and almost closed shut lol. (I took to it with scissors to open it up again) Anyway love the car, chasing rattles in the dash and rear view mirror atm.

So has anybody tried the icc swap and not had to go to ford to reset the code? Is there a certain icc to look out for, ive read that the icc has to have the codes removed before you buy it to be able to just swap everything over and plug it in. Sorry, just bought an 04 xr6t and this is all new to me but I'd rather ask the questions before getting burned. Cheers