(Locky)

Brand new china is better for skidding on compared to some of the high end brands (bar a few) that have massive delam issues

I woulsnt be too concerned with what the RTA say on the papers Everything is above board but on my rego for my 180sx. Its listed as 1994 Nissan 'SIL92A' rather than 180sx Grey import is a little different, but they arent the wn to the exact detail as its just a catogory in the system for them

215 on a 9.5 is on the most you would probably want to go, but only if you need to, over streched with gaurd gap looks silly On 18s the most the time I usually got is 225's on 10s and 235's on 10.5 But yeah id test fit to see if you need it before going that much strech

I just chucked them on as I had a spare hour to sus out whats going to be needed once the 19's rock up They are off this thing Rear is definatly going to need some love, yet front will work better than I thought. AS much as I'd like to know way I would drive around like this as AS I have never really seen one of these pull off 17s's and would need to be silly low to make it work. It looks silly with massive gaurds gap, I need to sort out a good 2in drop for the rear before I would contimplate wunning any agressive rim. The euro guys were doing it for years, the japs quite a while. SOme people says its to do with sidewall flex while drifting, but its also super previlent in their VIP scene and cars with oni camber (ie 10+ deg) It seems to become mainstreem in the last 2-3 years compared 7 or so years ago, no tyre shop wanted to touch it. For me it makes sense with IRS as you can have mm close rim to gaurd fitment and it will still tuck in under compression. The track car needs it to limit fouling withg sill suspension setup that needs low offset wheel to clear everythign at full lock. Since become more the 'norm' so many bad examples adn people going too much strech for no real reason, unless its to be cheap to get smaller tyres when with the gap in the gaurds would allow a lot larger tyre and would actually look a lot better filling the gaurd In summry, not running car like that, just doing some sums on the numbers

Played around with some wheels I had for the track car 17x9+22 with 8mm spacer( so 9+14) and 17x10.5+3 Really need the car lowered at least 2in at the rear and 1in or so at the front. But after calling up kings today their super low rears are only 30mm lower so guess I need to lock into resets. Wheels I got coming are same but 19's and chrome face all round. Rears will sit in about 5mm more

way too much strech for that height. Looks silly with that much gaurd gap/. Would look better with a chunkier tyre at current height

Since its been bumped How much lower are king super low rear leafs compared to factory xr6?

BF2 ute.. thought they would have figured it out by then Its annoying as f*ck when nearly every other car ive had since driving has had it

That the falcon doesnt have an auto down/up windows. Every nissian I've owned that's been made in the last 20 years and every import has had at least auto down. Were they too cheap to add in a few extra wires and a relay. One of the most annoying things about the car so far

A manual boost gauge you can get away with pretty much anything. But anything else using decent gauges are 10x better than china/ebay junk. In other cars I had one or 2 cheap china gauges, at about $100 each new, thought they were ok. Then bought a whole set of Greddy white face gauges and they looked a bit more plain (no smoked face or fancy start up) but were way more consistant and looked more purposeful. I then got my hands on some Genuine defis and compared to knock offs they are super expensive, but so much better qauity and finish. I managed to get my hands on a discontinued defi link display, which can show all the readings alone, 2 at a time or scrolling through. Though I perfer a traditional needle boost gauge that is a defi on the pillar. It is great as they both have a warn function with a loud alarm for and display changes along with red light to get your attention. I had a Yashio factory digital water temp gauge floating around so thatdoes water, the link does oil press/temp and gauge for boost. I could get some more sensors for the link for fuel pressure ect, but not really needed for me The XR6 im going to run a Blitz manual boost gauge I picked up at wreckers and a 52mm gauge/contoller for rear air assist bags as it is a neat way to controll all that

Do you have your old stuff/ want to sell?

Lighting and box for trailer straps in the back

^^ Thanks for that, at least I know Im going to need a 40F/50-60R drop to be happy on mine

why not just work out currnet offsets nad go from there? http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator

These car are boats with a turbo strapped to the side. Have you never driven something light/handles? These car still weigh a silly amount and coming from anything lighter/ decent setup I cant see how people think these things are good in the corners. Maybe with some upgrades it might feel tolerable, but drive a mx5 or solvia with a few bits and pieces and I think most of you would be shocked. One of those with a decent setup is amazing and is getting close to what you would describe as 'go cart' Must have no have no car control or feel driving a turbo for saying it steps out at a moments notice. Stock powered for now, but even going around a corner on boost and it feels more sketchy from the weight. Not braking traction 24/7. Driving a car that is stilly low, a silly suspension setup that is not designed to go straight or round a corner well, with china tyres with 240kw only weighing 1150 can still drive it mundanly if you dont just put it in 2nd let the boost hold pedal flat till the boost ramps

I wouldnt call GTR rims a 'cheap rim' Up until recently they went for 2+K for a set 2nd hand which is more than what most people on here would spend new HE would have had to get the centerbore machined or run a spacer as nissan centerbore is smaller (im running V35 skyline rims on my ute and it needs 8mm slip on on the front and 5mm on the back) The new front bar / bonnet seems a pretty common mod, the old man I bought mine off did it too (included perfect condition original stock bar too) so not always acco damage

I would have preferred a size down, but kf's are kinda a 'hero' jap wheel (suprised rota or xxr haven't made a copy yet) have ben discontinued for about 5 years and usually go more than 1200 a pair in 19s in decent size/dish 2nd hand. Thus when I saw some going cheap at auction I jumped on them. They won't be here for another 2 months so that gives me time to sort out the height so it doesn't look horrid They will definitely be on the aggressive side. But the test fit of 18x10+0 looked like they could work with some low and gaurd work, and. 9.5-6 is the same outer position Time will tell I guess. Worae case sell the rear pair off and grab another, know someone selling some 10.5 s that will sit in a little more if theae don't work out

Yeah was my theory.. cheap KF's Ill give them a crack at working, Im not even going to attempt to put them on till its lowered at least an inch or 2. I will chuck some load assist bags in the back to limit scrubbage while towing. They are a bit thrashed, but no doubt ill gutter them as I have no sense of where this car is with sill V8 bonnet buldge and no rear visability And to arron, Im not a fan of silly kid that has been spending too much time on hellaflush blog, then goes and orders wheels 2x sizes too big then rocks it at stock hight with overly streched tyres with a gaurd gap that you could still fit your fist in. I have a vaige idea on how to go agressive quility rims. Rather than just the generic rota/varrastone/xxr junk that most people seem to run here in agressive sizes. Been doing it for a few years, before every man and his dog offered agreessive whees and you see every 2nd car with aftermarket rims running stretch out of being cheap rather than being necessary. 5+ years ago I had to go to 3 tyre shops before they would put a 235/45 on a 17x10 as they were afraid it would blow up, now it is common practice and like everything the more nad more popular it become the more and more sh*t examples you see and people running strech for no reason when at there height/ wheel combo a chunkier tyre would actually suit better. Plus Its always just way to compliment the looks, im not one of those guys that 'builds' a 'stance' car to park in a carpark and take photos, they are taken on twisty runs or out to the track and drifted Ie some pervious cars most are driven hard/ tracked like that * I'll gett off my high horse now*

standard 4 door woes Ill get Phill to vcome round and see what he can do on the gaurds, worse case theyw were cheap enough could probably easily make my money back on them being KF's

going to run srech.. maily due to force of habbit / wide tyres are expensive ha someone on NS has has a 18x11+11 with a 255 and seems to fit without too much hassles so hopfully a roll and a bit the 9.5-6 wil be alright without a verandah flare. Not used to this non IRS business though. Used to being able to get it mm perfect with camber adjustment

I just won a auction on Yahoo japan for some wheels for the ute F: 19x8.5J +19 R: 19x9.5J -6 The rear is going to need some love to fit and might need a 15mm up front to even it out the look but will see how it goes when they arrive. That wont be for a while so gives me a chance to sort out suspension in the mean time

Just thought Id add my 2c 6 Speed manual BF2 Ute. Stock proformace wise. Factory fitted tow bar, just fitted an electronic brake controller a few days after I got it. I have a track car, 180sx weightin around 1100KG Dual axel trailer with electonic brakes around the 500KG mark Car loaded up with spare wheels, tools, jacks, jerry cans ect I have previously towed with a Lexus LS400 (4L v8), that towed reasonably well, but wasnt load rated for it. Replaced that with a VT Late model camira wagon which is what I did most of my longer distance towing with (wakiefield, winton ect) The VT Late model camira was just a 4 speed auto V6. It was reasonable for the price I paid, being only a couple of grand, but struggled at times. Spent most the time in 3rd gear, unless you got a run up on the bigger hills you were hitting 5+K in 2nd and struggling to maintain speed. That used nearly a full tank to get to wakefeild and back. I usually filled up at sutton forrest as I was afraid I wouldnt make it home. I towed to Wakefield and back from south west sydney, Aprox 350KM round trip. reasonably hilly for about 1/2 the trip last weekened The falcon was great. I was worried at first with taking off with a manual box, but really just reminded me of the button clutch in the track car, just a bit more revs and let it out a bit smoother to avoid a jolt. It ssat on the flatter sections with cruise control on in 6th and sit on 110odd without issue. When starting to come up to hills I just got in the habbit of dropping back to 5th. As long as I was back on the power before a hill and I wasnt changing gear already on the incline t took most with a bit more throttle like with no issues or loss of speed. The only time I want in 4th was if someone pulled out in front of me doing 90km up a hill, but would still pick it back up relitivly quickly. Where as in this situation the Late model camira would be stuffed and revving to 5K struggling to keep 80km/h and I felt horrible for holding people up. Fuel wise I used 3/4 of a tank. But being easter monday there was a lot of traffic on the way home (to the point of stop start) after mittagong so this would have affected it more. The trip computer which I reset at the start of the trip was showing an average of 18L/100 from memory. So it may even use less fuel than the 3.8L commodore. Only downside is it is 98 compared to E10. I may look into getting a tune to give the car a bit more pull down the track, but handles it fine as it.

.edit

No a xr6 but I just went United e85 on my sr20 Went from 215 on 20psi to 220 on 16 psi New 20psi was around 245 before maxing 740cc injectors Real benefit is you can run a whole lot more timing and boost safely so it feels like the turbo comes on a lot quicker. Generally feels a lot better, car runs a whole lot cooler on the track too Mainly did it for the reliability and cooling, but bonus power is pretty cool. Last traxkday I used low boost all day and felt way better ro drive than old hi boost 98 tune

its all reliative. Ie I just bought a XR6as a daily/station/tow car as it will warrent farr less attention (cops/thevies/matainance/) than my Sil80 but yeah it is sometime good to have a car you have little sympothy for and dont mind if it get a few more dings. From memoroy VIC rego is way cheaper than NSW so a little run around may be worth it. If you are doing it purily for commute, little 4cly hatch back would be best as way cheaper to run, insurance/ rego is cheap chainge the oil every 10K and dont worry about too much else Igf you get an expensive/ 4L large car, wouldnt really be worth it.