(Locky)

dude a 17x9+35ish is like a standard as jap size 10 years ago. Being as they are no whee near popular as dont poke on most jap cars you can pick them up for nothing second hand. quality and cheaper than anything you have been talking about so far Buddy clubs, avs, most work, rays and weds along with all the smaller companies have heaps in this size If you want new why not Enkei, make a heap of wheels in your sizing and silver?

I know 2 people that have got X7Rs in the last 2 weeks Go with Jesse streeter VIA DHL shipping (only about $100 more for the set than the 6-8 week sea mail so like 400 vs 300) and you will get them way quicker than that and a way better wheel than rotas I would go some bigger sizes for the deeper concave. Im thinking of getting them in 19x9.5+12 and 19x10.5+12 or 22 for my BF if my VS-KFs sell and nothing decent 2nd hand comes up

Falcons seems to blow globes a lot quicker than other cars, seemed to be a way more common occurrence when talking to people working at autobarn 5 odd years ago HID kit takes about half hour to hour to install. seeing as BF run reflectors you will most likly blind everyone if you dont adjust headlights. If you adjust them down you will only piss off about 50% of people. Dont see the need to change a BF headlight, lights are amazing compared to 90s car, the low beam on the BF is better than the high beam with hid kit in a 90s nissan But stay away from a $50 china ebay kit. Lucky to have lasted me 30h of use before a ballast burn out (IE getting oven hot in a few seconds) which is a hazard to say the least. Had another issue with a EBay kit a few years ago as well with either the bulb or ballast dieing. At least that guy sent me a whole new kit, latest one wont even respond to messages on the potential fire risk. On contrary the $200 odd Kaxian kit I bought years ago lasted 5+ years before I parted the car.

I always just ran some cables ties to like a roll cage or mirrors ect so if it fails it didnt fly off or lately even just duct tape once suctioned down on window

Yep they seem rare in australia. I relipped those from 17x8+30 something to 17x10.5+3 with 5in dish, same as the 17kfs were 7in now 10.5 as well. I have work equip 05's on it atm but just won a matching chrome pair of Minerva's for the front on yahoo japan last night Also bother has SSR SP1's on his MX5. Super advans on his s13 along with BBS RS, Wantannabes and Rays touring evolutions (first gen TE's before the TE37). So we are pretty bad wheel whores, along with a bunch of wheels I wish I havent sold over the years. hahaha What size are yours going to be, 18's? seems to not see them any bigger and 17s seem a bit less common than 18s as well ( at least in decent sizes)

At least you know about quality wheels then. Sorry if that seemed a bit dumbed down then. kinda dissapointed at how little regard is given to fake wheels here ; Im a sucker for Jap wheels coming from Nissans, So I have Work VS-KF's for my falcon there only seem to be a handful rolling around on work/ssr/rays ect May not be your cup of tea but seeing as falcons are 5x114.3 like prettty much all toyotas/nissans of that size could always pic up a nice set of 2nd hand 19s for 1-2K and would look better and hold their value way more than some new local stuff

A lot of wheel makers, well at least a lot of 2/3 peice wheels have different 'disk sizes'. Which is how thick the spacing is from the wheel mounting face to the back of the spokes. IE Work Wheels use the system R disk high clearance for brembos ect, A disk for mid clearance for normal sized 4 pot brakes O disk for low clearance like single pot rear calipers for maximum dish A lot of generic tyre shop wheels dont have any of this kind of info, or an easy identifiable system like about. but "generally" on cheap one peice wheels if the concave ect isnt any different the offset is just done buy milling more off the back of the same blank to get a higher offset, and thus less brake clearance. But as all those wheels are different widths its hard to tell They look very similar to RAYS G25's which come in different concave to suit the size... but they will be way more than that kind of money hahaha

I just know both harnesses I bought specifically mentioned not to use with a stock adjustable headrest style seat If you run one of these with the hole drilled through the rear of the cab it should work as long as the angle is acceptable

1- dont run them on a stock seat, they are designed for seats with harness holes 2- due to the minimum angle requirements you will either need to get a harness bar installed. or run an eyelet with holes drilled through rear of cab with one of those threaded plates other side of cab On my 180sx I ran one eyelet at the stock lower sea tbelt bolt, the other I drilled hole through tunnel just behind where the stock female seat belt buckle roughly is and used one of those eyelet plates. The rear I used the stock rear seatbelt mounts, which was just on the boarderline of acceptable angle (dont have this option with a ute obviously) but now have half cage with harness bar from AGI which puts it at a lot better angle for the rear straps cams info here on mounting http://docs.cams.com.au/Manual/GeneralRequirements/GQ10-Schedule-I-2015-1.pdf

You ford guys are to strung up on a figure A dyno is a tuning too.. will get a big change in peak power readings with a range od changes like brand of dyno mode of the run ambient temp reading (or in some cases not connected and makes higher figure) tyres, a semi slick will read lower than a 2 year old china special tyre back to back As said above the sticky fresh tyres may read lower on a dyno, but may just be an effect on the dyno or the added grip may even make you faster 1/4 mile time if that floats your boat Dont get hing up on a peak power though either way.... Area under the curve will be a better car

I had one when they very first came out on my s14. that had a full 3in system (standard upgrade size for them) it flowed fine when open It is only designed to cruise around though when closed as you are only really giving it a 1in tip when closed. Did a run on the dyno with it closed to see how it went it choked up bad around 5K and he stopped going any higher. So really only designed for when you are putting around town, on the highway or see a RBT. But cops have caught on to them now was they have been around for 6 years or so

They are weird sizes and got the relatively cheap for KFs, Cheering it can take the 9.5-6 on the rear matching pair I rebarreled to 10.5+3 for track car as well in 17s

Coilovers in the front and oil change Dropped the front about 30mm but now has gone back to the natural jacked at rear look as Super low kings aren't that low in the rear :( Will probably chuck some 1in blocks in, but has to wait till I can afford air assist in rear as towing it squats about 2cm (which is how I want it all the time but scrub too much without load bags at back any lower)

New rear tyres to get rid of the tiny looking 35 profile. Now a 235/40/19 on a 9.5-6 so slight stretch and fills the guard a lot better installed king springs in the rear to get rid of jacked look Gave it a wash Wheels look a lot less silly with the guard gap brought down a lot and the bugger profile Now just coilovers in the front to drop it a cm or 2 next weekend and its finally nearly how I had in mind for it to look

Well got them in about 3 hours Didnt go yoo bad besides copping a rotor to the face when diff sprung up after undoing last bolt of first side This is about the only place the washers made sense. I guess as the spring packs are slightly different sizes

Nah after reading your walkthrough think rear bearings are one of the few things im actually going to pay labour for in the last few years, too much f*ck around taking something to get pressed for daily Thinking I really should have given king springs a buzz during week to sus out what the strips are for hahaha

Confuses as to what removing rear disks has to do with it?

Thanks Ive had a peruse of your photo essays on here which helped clear some things up (like not to tackle wheel bearing at home unlike the IRS stuff ive done) Those loose washer/spacer things that came with the springs is only thing im concerned about now

Also interested A lot of sellers give vague answer when you ask if compatible with being lowered but around 1K with controller is a lot just to jack up the back when towing once a month when air assist for IRS cars is fraction of price :( This control system looks sweet, just a press of a button to pump up/down and makes sure they done go completely flat and includes compressor http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/air-25850/overview/

I believe from reading if you put 1in lowering blocks 18s just fit (if memory serves correct) Im about to chuck some king springs in the back of mine, but have the feeling it wont be low enough for my liking If so im going to chuck some blocks in as well, but after I can afford an air assist kit for when I tow as dont want crazy reverse rake while towing with aggressive wheels

I'm not sure what they are exactly, but they are pretty high. But they are kinda a 'cheat' tyre as they have a realitivly high rating to get around a lot of regs in comps and drift, but that's as they have a heap more physical depth before they are on indicators compared to most brands So pretty soft for their rating (which I believe may be around the 300s)

Yeah got the nolathane shackle bushes (wasnt sure on name, but the rear ones) Will these make sense once I have the old spring out? Also the king springs dont have the short spring with the bracket halfway along like stock Is that just a design difference and not to be worried about? Im quite competent ripping apart and putting back together my other car, but as this is the daily and need to tow something sunday I just want to make sure I wasnt missing something glaringly obvious so can hopefully get it smashed out Saturday arvo

Just after a heads up if there is anything I need to look out for in putting new leaf springs in the back of my ute. Pretty mechanical but just never done anything with solid rear ends before. I have the springs which have a front bush already installed, along with some new nolathane ones for the rear which look to be easily pushed in with hand tools. One question is the car seems to have 2 possible mounting positions for front bush. Do I just use the highest one like stock springs? Also the king springs seemed to come with a small strip of metal that looks to be a washer. Or will that make sense as where it goes when I get the old one out? Just checking is there anything I need to look out for to avoid it turning into a 8 hour job or getting car half pulled apart and something missing thanks

Was it the fact that they were drven on for so long out of shape made them bald, or driving around down to smooth made them bubble? Not the fact they are cheap, as some of the cheaper tyres hold together way better down to the belts when skidding compared to the likes of some of the higher end stuff

Changed foglight globes... and because they are generic ones in knco off fpv bar turned into a 2+ hour job rather than like 10 min