quadie

Explain -20 vac is caused by a boost leak ?

with that info , id be throwing a set of coils at it , genuine only coils! , well the fuel desnt get burnt in thr missed combustion cycle , so yes , your O2 would then see a rich mix as the fuel is unburnt!

has it been running ok , what was your reason for reading the codes?

Sweet as. Enjoy !

just to the left of the brake pedal is a big rubber grommet! , 4 mm drillbit and feed hose through

19" rims? , gates racing belt? , new BOV? , earls oil line kit? , my mind runs wild!

so the car is cant be registered , else your the owner of the car , not a good sign

No matter which way he goes. Hes up for about. 2 g to get it running. And wont see any benifit frim it as I doubt he has overboost issues

yep , acc power , and id u acc power for the lights also , cig lighter is a good source

^^^^^^^^^^^ that's the only way to do it make sure u disconnect the fatory sub amp , to disable the HPF in the ICC

check for partilly blown fuse. had this plenty of times , check fuses resistance , not just that voltage goes through it!

:S , voltage is not mechanical , its electrical

new diff gears ?

ok let step this out. to fit this (negleting to worry if it will function correctlry , we will get to this later. choice 1. adapt the W/G to the existing manifold or replace the exhaust manifold. if you choose to adapt. the manifold will need to modified , this requires : an adaptor to me manufactured to with the w/g (ebay may have one to help reduce cost) the adaptor need to be welded to the stock manifold (from memory this is cast), so will be prone to cracking , not to mention a pain in the ass to weld. ( a shop will want a mint to perform this) to replace the manifold with a suitable item. ebay has a few manifolds hopefully 1 will suit. if not id put a good whack aside to 6boost for a custom jobby! ok so that's it exhuast to the w/g. now we have to get rid of the exhuast. choice 2. vent to atmosphere or pumb back to exisiting exhaust. vent to atmo. easy to make. again requires adapter plus some pipes. POPO/ EPA frown to this method , and if running stock boost will be open alot , plumb into exhaust. this requires the exhust to be modified for the return pipe. and the pipe from the w/g to suit manufactured. ok so now we have a plumbed w/g , all smiles , NOT YET! the turbo. choice 3. replace the turbo mod the turbo weld the turbo replace: replace the turbo with an external gated turbo. (this will require different exhust options also) mod the turbo: replace the rear housing on the turbo , this will require a dump pipe change. weld the internally gated housing shut again off the the welders , they wont like doing this also! to get the port of the turbo welded shut. so that's ALMOST all the mechanical things now we have to look into control of the boost. IF , your lucky enough and the W/G spring is lower than the stock boost level , plug it in and adjust it to stock boost level , and your done! ready to play, and you will be faster as your wallet has been lightened by at minium 2000 bucks. IF the W/G is HIGHER (most likely) that stock boost level the stock ecu will accomidate a mild increase in boost be4 the ecu starts to hit boost cut/fuel cut now if your lucky and can adjust to boost into this region , I would reccomend a dyno pull or too to see that all is ok , ad makte sure afrs and such are safe. boost level will be what ever the driver or ecu limits first now the W/G cant get the boost down below boost cut. get ready to break out the wallet again: u will need mods to support this boost. fuel pump injectors, ECU. ecu mods may consist of fitting a fuel/boost cut defender. or fitting an ECU , weather full aftermarket or things like an apexiFC , emange ( piggy back style) and then add dyno tune , if you have gone this far u will have exhaust , intercooler, intake, fuel systems. and your cheap W/G is not a costly street weapon well that just about sums up what involved. my suggestion: sell the gate on boostcruising get a more purposful mod, exhuast , intercooler, intake , or simialr

lol , spank him!!!!!!

im over the commentators silly shinanigins , I ge tthe missus to tell me when they are on the grid. wish there was alternate commentary. any1 remember whwn roy n HG would call the state of origin on the radio , id listen to the radio and mute the tv. much more value!

freaking brilliant!!!!!!

TY ratter (cant find the bow down to god emoticon) hehe

good safe AFRS with overhead on the injectors, trade boost for timing , defernt tuners achive power in different ways. ie less boost = more timing id say the limiting fator is what the pistion will take.

any xcal can read OBD-11 codes , ford or not

what was going on there? they have gps telemetery and cant work out the leader?WTF

yes it can but it gives it as a value that then needs to be pumped into a formula to give a boost in PSI , datalog a pull up a hill, review the log and get the highest value and whack it in the formula to get boost in PSI in your case I would reccomend buying a boost gauge to help diagnose your fault. autometer cobalts(to match the dash) are 100 bucks , and a well worth investment if you have mods. I get all my autometer gear from "ihavethebestperformanceparts" on ebay , always the cheapest and great service and shipping is always fast.

havent heard of pulleys coming off! would say warenty coolant used would not cause the pulley to fail!

tape the wires up with black tape , looks fine

never had an issue with whine from the lc6i I have mounted them behind the glovebox before , under the seat and in the boot. if you plan your wiring its no more that a normal amp upgrade is in mine its located in the boot , I spliced the the fronts at the kickpanel of each door , ran 2 lengths of speaker wire, one from the existing icc wiring and 1 running the amped signal back up to the front. per side. racs to amps are easy.