dloughland

Would you call that slip? It certainly doesn't feel like slip. You're right though, if I give it some revs with the clutch disengaged, let go of the accelerator, then the clutch, its good. That doesn't work so good on a hill though....or at slow speeds in a car park or in reverse.

Just started noticing this whine sound over the past few weeks which appears to be clutch related at the friction point. Quite evident pulling off into first, and a much shorter and softer note from 1-2. Clutch is an Ace Opt 4 installed in my FG. Anyone heard this before or know what it is? See video link below. Using the time stamp, second 21 (pulling off) and 26 (shifting into 2nd). https://goo.gl/photos/oz4VFsxf3y6vWHGy5

Help needed with my clutch. Had an Ace (malwood) option 4 clutch fitted to my FG 10 months ago. After 2 weeks, my resovoire was dry, and the pedal lost all resistance. My mechanic bleed the system, couldn't find anywhere where it could have leaked, topped it back up with fluid. Didn't have an issue until two weeks ago. Same issue, resovoire dry, and close to no pressure in the pedal. Again, the system was bleed and tested for air leaks, still no issues, so drove away and was good for about 2 days. The pedal again is losing pressure, however the resovoire is still full. Have been able to get by, by pumping the clutch pedal for approx 1-2 minutes untill full resistance is regained. This will usually last for about 10 minutes of driving before the pedal doesn't flick all the way back up, and friction point gets closer to the floor. Took it back to my mechanic yesterday who said it must be the master cylinder, as nothing else makes sense, so replaced it. Was good on the drive home last night, but today its starting to loose resistance again. Again, pumping the clutch pedal for 1-2 minutes will regain the pedal resistance. Has anyone experienced anything similar and could pass on some advice? Would be greatly appreciated!

Apologise in advance, but have read this a couple times now, may have missed the answer. How does the ecu connect to the Samsung to show the engine stats?

Just waiting for the protective grills to come in so I can start using the boot again for storage.

Just thought I'd share my recent custom boot enclosure. Great use of space, and can very easily come out to access the spare tyre.

Unfortunately all parts have been paid for and already on their way. I didn't actually get a per part quote from the guys at Monsta Torque, I just looked at the stage II package and sort of worked out it may be cheaper to source all the parts separately elsewhere, plus I wanted to add the air box and pump. Will speak with the Rob or Darren in the new year to get quotes for the turbo mods and tune. Possibly might have to include labour for all my parts as by the sounds of it I can't install any of them safely without the tune. Thanks for all the replies though, has been somewhat helpful.

Was hoping to be able to some of the upgrades without getting it towed. Wasn't going to bother with turbo mods just yet, as I'll upgrade to a bigger turbo in months to come. Going to get Monsta Torque to tune it with the xcal flashbox.

Currently own a stock 2011 FG XR6 turbo. Have just spent a bit of money online today sourcing the cheapest prices for the mods I want. Looking to save as much as possible on labour by doing any of it possible before I send it to the shop to get tuned. Please take a look at the new bits and let me know what I can and shouldn't add before it gets tuned (probably won't be any longer than a couple weeks after everything is fitted - and can drive like a grandma when needed) - xForce 3.5" Stainless Steel Turbo back with 4" dump - Bosch 1000cc injectors - Walbro 460 intake pump w/ high flow 4 bar fuel pressure reg - Process West Stage II cooler kit - Process West race air box w/ battery relocation kit