Sweet EB

You get the points mate.. I can't believe it destroyed the centre.. It's only done low ks but it gets a bit of a hiding..!

Hi all, been a while since I posted.. I replaced diff and car running perfect.. I have only just had a chance to pull the cover plate off the old diff.. Well, don't think a set of bearings is going to fix this problem..!

Well, removed LH half shaft and ran car in 1st again and noise is still loud as ever in the diff.. Looks like I'm up for a diff.. Not happy..!

Hi all, well finally got around to changing out the RHS wheel bearing.. Problem is still there.. No more clunks from the rear now though.. Did a bit more research about pinion preload because the symptoms match.. I got under the car today and couldn't feel any noticeable movement in the pinion itself. I started the car and ran at idle in 1st gear.. The noise is either coming from the diff or the inner cv on the half shaft on the LHS.. The weird thing is that the LH half shaft is moving around like it's bent.. The shaft itself has a wobble and looking where the shaft/cv meets the diff, it has a wobble up there.. Could the half shaft be bent or is there something inside the diff that would cause half shaft to move around like it's bent..??

Exactly the same..

Well, here's what it was.. Driver's side wheel bearing.. Completely collapsed.. Jacked car up and grabbed hold of drivers side wheel and it flopps around like it's about to fall off.. How does a wheel bearing just collapse like that.. No warning at all.. No noises leading up to or anything.. Just a bit of quick clutch our action and a fair bit of throttle... Would never have thought the wheel bearing.. Very happy that was all it was..!

Yeah unfortunately it's a sedan.. Mine has always had a bit of play.. What were you doing or happened when your diff let go..? I have done a lot worse and nothing has happened before.. I don't understand why something broke this time... Wasn't a full clutch dumb.. Was normally just enough to break traction.

No what I want to hear..! Will get a chance to have a look this arvo.. It's been killing me not having a chance to work out what's wrong.. Hoping it is just a half shaft..

Hi all, I have a BA XR6T manual. It's has a moderate power increase which has been that way for years ~250 RWKW.. I stepped off the clutch today and give it a bit and I heard a definite clunk and then a lot off woop woop noises and what sounded like loud bearing noise under coast conditions.. The bearing noise sound just like a very bad wheel bearing noise. Noise is a lot quieter when under a bit of load but gets very loud when you back off. Additional to that, when you take off from standstill, it kind of jerks the car like your pumping the brake peddle a bit while taking off. The when rolling in reverse into my driveway, it was make some pretty ugly clunking noises.. Haven't had a chance to have a look but what is everyone's thought of what it could be.. Sounds pretty bad.. Car gets driven about once a month with just over 100k on the clock.

Ok, Just finished the job. Ended up taking the turbo and exhaust manifold off. I have the support bracket so I had to take the turbo off the manifold as well as taking the exhaust manifold off. I separated the exhaust at the exhaust to dump pipe flange. I took too long trying to replace the actuator with the turbo in situ. I can't see how this can be done. Once I took the turbo off and had a look, you would have to be some kind if magician to be able to do this job with the turbo in place. The little clip holding the actuator shaft to the wastegate is sooo hard to get to. It was also totally destroyed once I had removed it. It wouldn't stay on with any confidence when I tried to re-use it. I ended up using just a conventional E clip when I put the new actuator on. Anyways, if you are thinking of attempting this job then be prepared to just take the manifold off as well as the turbo. It makes thing 10000% easier. The bottom front turbo to manifold nut can be removed easily by using a 1/4 inch drive 14mm socked on the end of a fairly lengthy extension. In all honesty, with this combination it was the easiest nut/stud to get out. All but 1 of mine had the whole stud come out with the nut attached. No easier or harder to remove/replace. Whole job was a little fiddly but definitely not hard. Be patient and most with a little mechanical savvy will do this job with ease.

20 mins...!!! Someone tell me their secrets!! I have a full array of air tools and it took me about 10 mins just to take the heat shielding etc... Any help would be greatly appreciated..

Hi All, I have a failed wastegate actuator (perforated diaphragm) causing overboost issues. I am just replacing the actuator with another new standard one. I have read that you can replace this with the turbo still on the car. I have looked over this and had an attempt and I simply can't see how you can disconnect the actuator at the wastegate end let alone reattaching the new one with a new circlip.. I have used a mirror to have a look and without being able to really see what I am doing along with only just being able to feel what I am doing I can't see how this is possible. Anyways, I have decided that I am going to remove the turbo instead to do the job. I have taken all the heat shielding off and taken all the nuts off that join the dump pipe to the exhaust housing but it doesn't appear that the dump pip has enough room to slide backwards off the studs and I am going to have to pull the turbo off with the dump pipe attached (no biggy).. If I remove the oil return line at both ends, will I be able to access the bottom front turbo to manifold nut with a socket and small extension?? Any tips would be good. This initially appeared to be a fairly easy job but is turning out to be a pain in the arse... I was wondering if there is an easy way??? Surly tuners are not having to take the turbo off to fit a higher rating actuator so there must be a trick.??? Any help would be appreciated.. PS car is a BA mk1 xr6 turbo with all standard hardware.

Hi all, I replaced both complete drive shafts yesterday. Also bought a new tail shaft centre bearing as the bush was completely non existent. Pretty certain it was the centre bearing making the noise and clunking. On the other positive note, the cv rumble with passengers in the back seams to be gone also. Pretty happy with the outcome. I didn't replace the tail shaft uni as it appeared to still be good.. Marking everything including every bolt going back into the same position so it went back together exactly as it came apart including the position of the plastic weights seems to have worked also will no vibration from the driveline at any speed. Took from a spin on the freeway this morning an is smooth as..

Hi, sorry to drag up an old thread but I am about to do the same job. I'm fairly mechanically savvy but just interested how long this job has taken you and what to look out for if anything..? Looks to me like you just need to remove Caliper, and disk then unbolt the knuckle that holds the hub assembly... Does the shaft just then pull out of the diff?? Does the other end pull out of the hub easily or do you destroy the hub trying to take the shaft out similar to what happens when you try and pull off the front hub..?

Hi AdamIan69, the new half shafts come with the inner and outer CV. I am going to fit them anyway... Just want to know if anyone had done this job before an has any advice..? No other symptoms though. Only on initial takeoff.. Hi MikeT36... recon that my Centre bearing is flogged as well. Will have to have a look as soon as possible...

Hi all... I have a BA turbo 5 speed. Lately I have felt a strange fairly harsh rumble coming from the rear when initially taking off. I thought it may have had something to do with 1st gear but if I change up to 2nd at low speed It will do it in 2nd. Anyway, the rumble has turned into a clunking feeling that almost has a noise (hard to explain). Not a single clunk but multiple clunking (a dull knock knock knock knock) as I take off from stand sill. It starts at about 10 km/h and then it stops by the time I pass through about 30 - 40 km/h. Doesn't do it at any other speed or condition. I have purchased a new pair of half shafts thinking that it feels a little bit like when a CV goes bad in a front drive car but doesn't have the audible click that is normally associated with bad CV. The car is sitting on king ultra lows front and rear and it has always suffered from a bit of a rumble in the rear if you have passengers in the back under load. I understand that this is from the angle of the half shafts. Any other ideas of what this noise might be??? Also, has anyone on here ever replaced the half shafts before??? I have a pretty comprehensive manual and it doesn't look too hard??? Basically just removing the outer knuckle that houses the wheel bearing then the shaft should just pull out of the diff?? Any help would be appreciated..

HI, I have read on here everywhere about how crap the T5 in when mated to the Turbo engine. however, I have one of the dreaded gearboxes in mine being a BA MK1 XR6T. The gearbox was rebuilt only 5k ago due to a nackered synco for 2nd gear and 5th so I thought that while the box is out I would get the whole thing freshened up. The rebuild consisted of all new seals and bearing along with all new syncros and a new 2nd gear. Up until this weekend, it's been perfect. The issues the started this weekend is that it is now jumping out of 2nd on a down shift. It was doing this exact same thing before it was rebulit but the rebulid seemed to fix it with a nice positive shift into 2nd. It still goes into 2nd perfectly on the upshift and doesn't jump out but will jump out on the downshift. Not every time but more then half the time. The car gets a bit of a work out but I definitly done abuse the thing at all. Never flat change and I think I could count on one hand how many high rpm changes I have done from 1st to 2nd due to not wanting to kill my $2k gearbox. The car has a generic 10psi tune so would be somewhere in the low 200rwkw. I know a T56 will fix the problem but I have spent $2k on this gearbox and would like to get a bit more from it and don't have 4k to throw at it at the moment. The box is under warentee but I get the feeling that once the box is out it will end up being something that won't be covered. Just thought someone might know what it could be so I am a little more informed before I take the car back to the rebuild place. Cheers...

Awesome... I want to see the tunnel footage!!

I have a small vid thay was at the very end.. Only has a couple of cars in it but it is footage all the same... I am kicking my self I didn't get heaps more... I had the misses with me so she could have been getting video the whole time... Ahh well, will get heaps more next time. I have the footage on my PC but how do I upload it to the site??

First time out on a cruise and had a ball... If it gets better then that then I'm excited about the next one... the tunnel footage would be awesome!! Was great to meet those that I met...

Hi, I'm a newby but keen to come along and check it out... Cheers.

Ahhh, valve springs!!! Why is it always the most expensive thing when a problem happens. Might be a bit out of my league doing it myself. I have done a couple of E series head gaskets and that is a main in the arse job. Thanks for everyones suggestions. Awesome forum site too.

Thanks for all your replies. Just a couple of things I am asking myself, If it was valve springs, would it still keep misfiring once the revs are brought back to idle?? and I guess the same goes with the type of plug? I am just trying to relate these issues to past experience with older cars I have had. I'v have V8's that have had valve float and I know the noise that you are talking about but when it happened to my old V8 it would kinda breakdown at peak revs but once the revs were brought back to a reasonable level it would go away straight away. The plugs idea is something that I have never experienced. I know I have read that boosted engines need a strong spark in order for the boost pressure to not blow it out. If the spark was getting blown out would the injector flood this cylinder and make it misfire for a while after?? I guess that sounds possible. Over boost is something that would be quite possible. Would this remain in this mode for a couple of minutes after?? We are going to clean the boost solenoid tonight to see if that does anything. It is sticky and taking little while to come on boost then maybe it is taking longer to control boost at the top and making it over boost long enough for the computer to intervene As for using the engine at peak revs, It is just giving it a good squirt now and again. The engine is just soooo smooth that sometimes you are hitting the limited before you think you are near it as in 1st it gets there so quick. I just thought that being a performance engine that it should be able to cope with 6000rpm from time to time without a problem. My misses 4cyl Camry can cope with it and it is far from a performance engine.. I am very close to buying one myself as they are such an awesome package. Just want to see if I could suss out whats going on with this car in order for me to be able to deal with it with the one I buy.

Hey, thanks. Well it has a generic flash tune from one of those CAPA flash tuners but it had this symptom before it was flashed. We have reset the spark gap to .8mm like the instruction says and the thing feels very strong under all conditions except this missing problem. I would have said it was leaning out or the spark was being blown out under boost but it still misses when you pull over and let it idle but only for a couple of minutes or so and then returns to normal. It is probably something that dyno might pick up. It is just that there is a second car doing the exact same thing and I thought that it might be something that ford has in its program to stop abuse??

Hi Guys, A mate of mine has an 03 MK1 T Manual. (I will have one soon!!!) The issue is that when giving it a bit of a hiding, Meaning hitting the limiter a couple of times it starts to run on 5cyl or less for a couple of minutes and then returns to normal. It doesn't make any odd noises when doing so except a major misfire even at idle after you have brought the car to a stop. As I said, this only goes on for a couple of mins regardless of throttle input. It's a major pain when having a bit of a run against someone at the lights only to have it start misfiring and loosing sh*t loads of power. Have changed a couple of things including new genuine plugs and a good quality synthetic oil but it still goes it. This only happens when you have come close or hit the limiter a couple of times under full throttle. Another mate has just bought a MK2 auto and it is doing the exact same thing. Is there a limp home mode kicking in or something??? I have read somewhere about an anti abuse mode and thought that this might be what is happening. If so how do you disable it??? Any help in this matter would be appreciated.