barnz

This 20 9.5 +38 rears and 8.5 +35 front. Only pic for now as can only get chit pics atm. +30 front would have been better I think the stretched 245's look a bit wierd. Hoping a 255 will fit here:

What is the max rear offset that will clear for a 9.5 20? Like +25? I know whats ideal but im waiting for a dude to get back to me about the offset of these Were on a BA GT. 8.5 fronts, 9.5 rears..he thinks

So much win HIGHWAY 2 C63 AMG VS SWEDISH POLICE BEST CHASE: http://youtu.be/ck3qglEAIr4

Looks awesome mate, that blue silicone joiner is sending my ocd crazy lol

Interesting gunna coz I found the exact opposite when switching back to nulon 10-40 from hpr10. Maybe it has more to do with the weight.

The violent steering wheel shake indicates its definitely front end related and bushes as mentioned would be a good place to start. Discs will continue to warp very quickly if there are underlying issues. Wheel bearings, worn control arm bushes ect. Warped front discs will make the wheel shake but usually not to the point where you feel like pulling over and should pretty much go away when the brakes are released. Get it into a good suspension place and get it sorted, then get your discs machined if they arent that old. Also as mentioned a sticking caliper could be the cause but you did say you've had them rebuilt, if you have a cheap inferred thermometer you could see if any one of the rotors is generating an unusual amount of heat when the shaking starts. Just to double check.

Lol you reckon...

How is the drive line coming along mate?

Ive had a bit of fly screen on there for sh*ts and giggles for a day or two. Now that's loud, my turbo didn't spin backwards and no baby animals were harmed. No boost cut either. Intake temps will climb though.

I would disconnect the line at the turbo, stick the end in a container, hold your foot flat to the floor and crank it for like 10 sec(wont start) and see what you get. So was the line already installed when you purchased it, or did you get a shop to do it? I have heard of the return lines baking and getting blocked as well but doesn't seem all that common. You never know mate the damage could have already been done in the 60 000 prior to installing the new feed. In any case I would be pulling it all apart at this stage, its not going anywhere :-( Could be lucky and its just the core but it really sounds like its touching. The fact it makes that noise when you switch it off....what else is still spinning...would be funny if its like a leaf stuck in your thermos

Interesting, not saying that's the problem, and I've had conflicting information about using them. Some say they are internally restricted, then a garret rep says run a 1mm restrictor for no more than 40 psi at the bearings. Ford don't use one BUT the factory screen may provide enough restriction. :shrug: Edit: silly question but just read the above, you did remove the factory screen and filter is facing the right direction yeah? So you cant make the compressor wheel touch the housing? Could be on the exhaust side but you would think that much play would be noticeable. Are there any little metal filing stuck in the lil bit of oil that collects in the hotside pipe?

Yeah that's done biz, does sound like contact with the housing. Did you run a restrictor in that oil feed?

Territory diesel cop chip ftw. Must be heaps fast

Can also be made from corn..and pot, and sunflowers and grain, and potatoes..the list is fairly large

It looks really good, particularly on nitro for obvious reasons. But you have set the bar very high for the rest of your mods. I can see this turning into an aviation themed show car. That paintwork is just to good for a daily.

Would be jap for me Redundancy package with quite a sizeable payout Or transfer to a position you don't particularly want to do for the same money.

That looks like a bush support that inserts into the OE bush.

Its hard to make a suggestion without knowing exactly whats already been done. Like what bushes have been replaced if any? Does the vibration get worse at a constant speed or as speed increases? Is there a sweet spot where it goes away? When you say shake does it move the wheel violently, the brake pedal, or both? Is it any different throughout a heat cycle? If you jack the car up do the wheels have any play(wheel bearings)?

Its alot of money man, whoever does it. Id freight it to the other side of the country if I had to, just to be sure its sweet. You know how it goes poor man pays twice, or in the case of gearboxes, 2, 3, 4 times. Dunno maybe I've just had bad experiences. The traumatic in my 6cyl vk(so like 3rwkw...) I had built 3 times, the last time by a guy I worked with who was a fkn fibreglassoligist, did it at home, charged me bugger all, always chirped 2nd and I never had a problem with it. Go figure.

Will cms give you warranty with a nizzy shaft though, pretty sure somebody on here got the no go on that recently so went the cryo Or would you get it built elsewhere with a nizzy. Pretty sure cms wont give a warranty if zf tune is touched, or atleast by anybody but them. Also in my experience gearboxes aren't just the sum of their parts. Haven't had a built zf, but a couple of TH boxes and even a traumatic. I know it largely come down to who puts it together. Something to consider when handing over your hard earned.

Wouldn't go 2nd hand built man, could be a lottery I would think, no warranty and how do you even know its built short of pulling it down? Receipts don't really mean much, could be a stocker with receipts from another box. I wouldn't go there personally. CMS would be a good option.

Looking good mate, I like those wheels and offset a lot. How are you finding those coil over's? Was the car dyno tuned or is it an eBay tune. I ask coz wog cooler...might want to get somebody to give it the once over maybe?

^^^ and the truck engine..really nice looking rig though, im digging those wheels. Also I'm fairly sure I could loose my licence in it, in like 5 mins if I went full retard.

so u got a built box, tail shaft and diff done?

Would highly recommended to anybody and I haven't even finished the 300km bed in. Tiny bit of squeal on a couple of medium applications during initial bed in, then silence. Haven't given them a proper workout yet but it's obvious how much better they are. Cant imagine how big brakes feel over stock. I get the feeling the a1's are going to be harsh on the rotors though. Just by how much they marked the rotor just rotating it by hand(fkn around adjusting hand brake).