barnz

I don't think so for an fgII, they are just going to sit there otherwise.

Actually from what I've seen brand new fgII are within a couple of thou of fgx's and low k fgII turbos still asking high 20's. Should be up to strike a deal on an fgII like you say. Priced an fgx xr6t ute and it was best part of 50k drive away but that was with canopy, racks, tow bar.

I'd say without a doubt there is a fark load of fg's about that have rollers that look like that and are making 400+ without an issue. Its a known problem, we know its sh*t. But doesn't seem to get any worse or lead to any failures....so I dunno spend like 2k on new rockers if u want...genuine is the only option. Or take skids up on his generous offer to donate some. Not sure if b series are identical but your old ones are an option as well.

Lol mate you got the fg donk so you didn't have to build it. If it all checks out get it back together and go! I'd be heeding the above advice.

No idea really lol, drive manuals erry day and never had one that does what your describing no matter what. Certainly never heard of anybody complain of their clutch disengaging to fast. But I've never had one that does it every time when coasting in gear, usually only in certain situations like when you stop abruptly coz spotted a car park and you punch it in real fast.

Well being unaware of your mad skillz I had no idea what degree of difficulty that sort of fabrication is to you. Me I'm not great at sheet metal work(think I made a toolbox once at school) so I'm going to have a go. Also want to learn to weld, well.

Which is my point, I can't remember what clutch you got but unless that's actually the way its meant to be it doesn't seem right. Sounds like its disengaging far to quickly like a throwout issue but im really not sure what it could be. Positive its the right pressure plate now? Tried bleeding it?

Try pushing the clutch in very slowly to see if it still happens. I can replicate the clunk and sound I think your talking about by just punching it in really fast causing the drive line to unload abruptly. Did it a few times this afternoon when I jumped in the work ute to go home.

Well don't take it the wrong way I just don't see the point with the niz plenum as it didn't look stock or stealth lol, was actually looking alright though. But I'm all about people having a go and not just handing over dosh the whole way. Its no way to learn... Why don't you fab your own turbo side and battery relo? Plenty to learn and save there!

Still heavy really and stripes had huge problems with 2nd gear in a new GT. Apparently they need to be babied when new for a bit or they can be hurt forever. Didn't you have issues with your clutch when it was put in? Not fully disengaging or something? Cause that's what it sounds like and I know that sound you are talking about when you pull it out without the clutch. Not the clunking we are on about. Not that severe. Engagement issue me thinks?

Really need an fg rocker cover to make the cross over work which means fg coils ect. I think the 3582 sits a smidge further forward. Wouldn't even notice it until you put the muffler on, sits very close to PS pump on an fg as it is. Fg coldside piping may have helped as it comes up very close to the location of the nizzy plenums tb location. Airbox would have to be custom no matter what. So a lot of work and I'd have to ask why......?

Lol........now where is stripes... Yes they are, the t56 is very hardy, so is the m86 rear although can have quite a bit of lash from the factory. The custard bushes, half shafts, diff hat(more so the single bush mounting than the actual hat) and to a degree the entire rear end design. Are sh*t. These cars don't break boxes(manuals anyway) and diff's. They munch bushes and twist drive shafts in half. Which would you rather deal with. Solid mount that sh*t and thrash it. Fark nvh. Shafts shouldn't bother you at your power level.

That chicken needs a can of beer up its ass fluff. Serious.....bout quarter of a can of beer with the erbs of your choice in the can. Not stuffing just shove the can up it...cook standing up for bout 2hrs give or take depending on size at 160ish.

Sounds like your fairly ontop of it though I probably wouldn't do down lights in a garage. Good ol batton fluros would be the go, and maybe 1 or so lights on a boom you can move around preferably around the engine bay area. No matter how many lights you have on the ceiling you always end up with shadows EXACTLY where your trying to work. I know you can just hang a work light off the bonnet but that's not as cool...... And a dyno.......

Lol rattle gun is a bad idea.....a large air ratchet may work

....rattle gun on the crank pulley for comp test...what could go wrong.

Everybody is different biz but I live by a couple of simple rules that get me by. Among them are "never give up" and "I will not be beaten" Easy to say right? I see it like this. You can either press on until you get where you want to be, or just give up and let everything go to sh*t....leaving you to either pick up the pieces when you snap out of it or...well you know what. That doesn't mean I don't get depressed, in fact I've been having a real tough time with pretty much fkn everything of late. I also let it get to me to much at times. But I always pick myself up and take another swing. Life itself is nothing more than a phenomenal coincidence, your very existence is nothing more than that despite what some would have you believe. Nobody should be wasting it. My condolences to you and your family.

Sure that nizzy plenum is all torqued up right?

Broken power windows regs....hope repco has them don't really want to wait for one to be delivered

Oil in the intake manifold is normal unless a catch can has been run from day dot. Cracks like that.....not so normal me thinks

I think you will find the cut is hard on the input shaft as Ralph has suggested because of the way it shock loads the box. It varys so much in how aggressive it is, I've had a couple that have made me cringe.

Sounds kinda like the abs module has shat itself. Was it just the speedo not working or entire dash. Do u have the facilities to scan for codes?

Bf can be fart enabled yes. Pretty sure I heard that from Ralph.

I have just put my 19's back on cause 1 of the 20's has a slow leak which turned out to be a crack on the inside edge if the rim, 2 cracks infact. Frankly I was over the way it drove on 20's anyway. Car feels same same power wise, in fact if anything the wider 20's gave the illusion of more power as they spun easier than the 245 19's due to cheap rubber vs decent rubber. Maybe don't get caught up in numbers and see how it feels with both as Ralph said.

"These days" you have 430. At the tyres. On a stock 220000km engine that was designed for a family car with minimal investment on bolt on's.......how is that anything but amazing ROIIm only 29 but I can still remember the days of spending waaaaaay to much for not much lol. Spent a bomb on a vn ss back in the day that made like 180rwkw..ls1's were like woah and way to expensive. I'm sure guys beyond my years will have an even greater perspective.