barnz

8 inch touch screen is fg2 onwards

IF you are able to change it yourself and can find one at the right price a standard fgt LSD is an OK option. If you need to pay somebody to do it just go a trutrac or the like, by time its all said and done not a great deal of price difference. Even better if you know how to build a diff just grab a trutrac centre but given you have asked the question in the first place I'm guessing that's not an option.

In my experience which could be wrong...Comfort comes from the tyre pressure the sidewall affords...not the sidewall itself...

Lol your always so helpful azza... Erry body bangs on bout BA premiums, nek mennet 340mm 32mm 2pots have been an affordable option the whole time.... Thanks Big_Kayz but I think it might only be the turbo Terrys that have them. Not even going to entertain buying them new from ford..could probably buy carbon brakes for a lambo for the same cost...

How did I not know this, spose they are a bit hard to come by?

Wait, turbo Terrys have 340mm front rotors? Same caliper just diff bracket?

Elaborate on unpredictable?

I assume the extra comp veva got was from the fg heads slightly smaller combustion chamber?

Far to many variables for any diff to stay dead straight when spinning. Predictability is the major difference between an LSD and a Locker which is pretty much what a trutrac is. Same wheel speed either side means its far more likely to do what you want it to do or act in a predictable way according to road surface, camber or tyre loading. Clutch type LSD's tend to have a mind f their own particularly when worn, when new and shimmed nice and tight they are OK. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

What's the treadwear rating on those? Would be soft as being a semi wouldn't they?(see what I did there...)

I would think raising the comp is going to make it not 98 friendly....you sure you want to restrict yourself to high octane fuels? Low 9's shouldn't be too bad though... Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

I'd be looking for a cable that's getting pinched or something possibly causing it to short. Could even be at the box, never owned a manual falcon, do they have a lockout switch so it won't start in gear? I know they have a reverse lockout solenoid but that shouldn't be your problem. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

I was going to make a point earlier about exchanger setups being nothing new and failures aren't isolated to ford and ive had it happen to me on a Late model camira which ran the lines through the radiator. Whether they fail from vibration, quality, whatever. It always ends badly. But clearly they are a necessary evil.So is the general consensus that the problem with oil to air is warmup period, which could be quite long depending on your climate, doing the damage. We have all still blatantly ignored the fact that exchangers are no good if your box actually needs cooling...like I said would happen. Damage happens then as well

What your saying sounds pretty strange, so it won't start if you jack the gearbox up into its home position? But does if you drop it a little? Are the BOSS and the manual from the same car or was the BOSS originally a manual?

I had already...originally at 2000w and its 166amps lol... So 80amps is probably viable but fark..

Biz, does indeed work. Expensive and still has the risk of mixing water. Don't care how good the pwr unit is, sh*t breaks sometimes. That's life. Pix, pretty sure that is exactly what pwr thought word for word when they priced it...... Electrical idea may not work thinking bout it more, anything over 1000w is starting to get ridiculous current draw wise.

No I haven't nor did I say they weren't of better quality? Just expensive for what they are man... Mine flares a little when cold with the stock exchanger, I expect this probably goes on for longer with an air cooler. Obviously engineers do things for a reason and the exchanger has its merits. I also know that you know if any box is getting a hiding for any extended period of time(track use, "legal" hill climbs....towing ect) an exchanger setup is not going to look after it. So either solution is a compromise in some way, correct? Well being a prosparkoligist I had previously had an idea that seems a little to easy for no one to have thought of it yet...but I'm still not going to share just yet as it may just be a winner. Doesn't involve water for a start but would warm up faster than the exchanger with all the benefits of a air cooler....trans fluid isn't conductive is it...I mean at all? Its quite important that its not so I really need to make sure of that first and get around to making a test kit...I have another idea if that won't work but complexity and cost would probably rule it out...

Most decent kits come with a fan and temp control that won't bring it on until around 90 degrees which is operating temp for the zf, switching off again at around 85 degrees and will do a good job, a better job than an exchanger of keeping it in that window under harsh conditions. I can see how warmup could take longer, but its kind of a moot point. Don't flog your car until its warm. Normal driving conditions well, I don't know I haven't had a trans cooler on a zf but I will be going that way when I service soon, so will monitor temps under normal conditions when I do. I don't trust the OEM unit, PWR unit is obviously better quality but overpriced IMO, I mean you can buy a fkn intercooler off them for just about the same price...whilst I do maintain my car well, I have to it cops a hiding so I think the trans cooler is for me. Plenty of people running them without issue and its been years now so safe to say it works fine. The myth they are terrible for your gearbox is exactly that... Now, cue heat exchanger fan boys that will blatantly ignore the fact they aren't real good if your trans actually needs cooling and will focus on the fact they keep them within OT under normal conditions and warm your trans up quicker if you live in fkn Alaska....

Sometimes they just get moved due to relevance or lack there of..also sometimes threads get merged ect. Lay off the meth bro your paranoid

I was just being a karnt, so that was actually a really good response to my karntyness My thoughts exactly, its a coz I need a car, car. Don't spend a fkn cent you dont need to. Buuuuut like me your conflicted, in actual fact your not a "just gets me from a to b" kind of person and have to tweak things and make it your own, coz you do actually give a sh*t.Synopsis: seen quite a few clean BF's at very fair prices, given nobody wants them. You would still be debt free and it would scratch the itch at least. Cmoooon back to us stripey, I mean seriously a farking Honda?????

^^^ Sold FGT to buy a blown FG GT sold that to buy a Late model camira then sold that to buy a Honda What the fark is it exactly that does work for you...

Hold the power button in, it may come back on. If it doesn't it's farked. It is a feature where you can long hold the power button to turn the screen off and everything remains operational. I've seen on more than one occasion where they go into this mode all on their own, always after a shutdown. In saying that whilst in this mode changing things like AC settings should make it illuminate for a short time until it auto times out. Adjusting volume is the exception to that..

If your ever selling that tocchi leme know...I miss my au wagon and always wanted to do a turbs one. Have you done anything with the interior? I was thinking bf fairmont spec but the only way to do rear seats is custom upholstery basically which makes the whole interior swap harder than first thought..

Can a tune be done to pass emissions rather than focus on power? Or is the high flow cat simply not doing enough to pass the test?

Any more details on that setup?