GUN-808

Exactly what im trying to say above.. The sidewalls will pull the shoulders downward and inward resulting in them NOT being used.. Tire pressure will compensate for this possibly but its NOT the ideal combination.. And as tyres "grow" it will bring the shoulder into play and there will be a loss in contact patch in the middle of the tyre.. Spreading a tyre with complementing tyre pressures will ensure the best grip all round hence why its a common thing overseas with the small tyre big power boys.. and yeah id hardly call 60s in the 1.5s fast.. not saying its not decent but im pretty sure with the correct combo 60s would be better.. im also going to say the 17x8 is a MUCH easier rim to come by and that's the main reason a lot of people have used them rather than them being the right rim for the job..

Yep spot on mate.. a 275-40-17 is recommended for a 9-11" rim so for drag only ill be going the 9s.. they are readily available in a 9 so yeah.. Id actually go up to a 10" rim before I came down to an 8" rim.. when maximising contact patch or "tread width" sucking them in on an 8" rim pulls the shoulder down and minimizes contact patch.. Tread width should be matched as close as possible to rim size with the rim walls lining up with the edge of the tread.. The Section width hangs over a bit and the sidewalls are then able to do their jobs properly.. Although in saying that a big trend in the states is to use the size up in Rim ie a 12" rim where a 10 is recommended and the normal practice, and they are having good results with that setup :/ I had something like that on my last car and it went very well..

Sorry Michael not Mark lol wrong conversation

Mate did u have any love on finding a set of these rims at all ?? 17s ? Im in the same boat as planning to do Terrorstory rear brakes eventually and dont just want a right Now set of rims as they will have to clear eventually..

Mark id be taking them back and getting a refund.. I treat mine relatively nicely and they are really only being treated as a street tyre.. getting other rims with some radials soon for proper runs.. the warehouse is at Southort and ill be jumping up and down if they split on me :/

When they say "cutting" its really a only a few small sections that require "trimming" .. I wanted a no cut job too but once it's done u don't think about it anymore.. I'm glad I went with my PW st2 does all I need and some .. also the stage 2 leaves u a lot of room for performance later and u don't want to have a too small problem again..that 300kw u want now will become 400 pretty soon if your anything like me lol

I just went with federal evo 595s and so far they are great.. Well iv booted it a few times and the traction control light hasn't come on yet so they are doing their job nicely.. 275-30-20 and were 180 or so fitted.. I'd take them any day over the 2 choices mentioned

Get me some new shoes.. Versus Intake in Carbon Black.. 20 x 8.5 +32 and 20 x 10 +38 (had these machined out to +41.5).. Went with n6000 Nexen 245-35/20s on the front and Federal Evo 595s 275-30/20s on back.. Painted them a Custom Copper/Terracotta/Cognac Metallic colour I had made up.. Scuffed up and masked a brand new set of rims and gunned them in a mates booth.. Wanted something a bit different away from the norm.. I like how they came out.. :D Ill get some better photos done soon when I do the bonnet and a decent paint correction done..

I have little girly fingers

Yep I made my own.. I have a 4" inlet into turbo so have a 4" silicone 90deg bend -- $25 ebay.. Mated to a 90deg mild steel bend which I careful cut to size and desired length.. -- $40 Had it wrinkle black Powder Coated -- $30 and add a few clamps -- $5 Mates up to the original rubber coupler to the crossover.. So all up about $100 and does as good as any kit on the market..

LOL ^^^ manifold off ??? its 2 small nuts and a c-clip... take off all of your intake between crossover and turbo.. can access it all from the top but u "may" have troubles with circlip.. Its always best off to take the turbo and set up an actuator on the bench in regards to preload and testing it with a leakdown tester to ensure its all working properly before reinstalling it on car.. u dont have to but it may save u time and money later if theres a problem with its setup and u find out at the wrong time like mid-dyno etc where your on the clock.. Its about a 4hr job or so out and back in but u need a ratchet ring spanner to access the turbo bolts correctly..

and theres this setup that's pretty killer too and nicely tucked up and away.. https://www.coolingmist.com/pagedisplay.aspx?pid=Protank1

yeah that's some of the things that blew out the budget.. :( I was planning on mating it to this snow upgrade setup with solenoid included and mounting it behind the rear seat behind the small split.. they can be had thru VPW for about $90 all inclusive - postage though.. http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sno-40014/overview/ OR this setup and tank looks killer.. mounts the pump onto the unit and all and tucks its all out of the way so only the line would be visible in the engine bay.. could possibly be modded slightly to fit our boots.. http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com/article_info.php?articles_id=95

This ^^ is pretty much identical to the one I got.. although from a stocker in Australia for a few bux more.. Rocked up a day or 2 later so def recommend this ebay seller.. It fits very snugly on the rear 1.06 and tucks very nicely under the stock heat shield.. stoked.. If u look very hardly u can notice it so keeps with the stock looking engine bay... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/171533102199?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Guys if ya want the hookup.... Ring PAC Performance in Sydney.. 0297927076 and ask for George or Rodney.. They have the .76 on shelf for $1480 and the .82 for $1595... inc GST.. (obviously super cartridge.. minus rear housing) add an actuator and u have the best of the best for around $2500... their rear 1.06 housings are Brand New Garrett housings with a 37mm CNC machined hole and flapper mod.. $695 inc.. dont use your sh*tty old housing and pay $400+ for a cut and shut job.. They are one of the national distributors not just a stockist..

I still got me a crossover.. and with an MTA750 im making about the same power as the '76 boys.. on 98... from what iv read its gunna cost ya about 10kw or so keeping the crossover.. although iv just stuffed a beanie under the factory heat shield so its gunna keep the intake temps down a little bit more that usual with this addition.. my hektic homemade muffler delete sounds nice too :D

The BW 8374 is the absolute best in its class.. going up a level the 9180 would be a very hard to beat setup as opposed to the GTX4088.. class leader at the moment but dear which unfortunately puts its further $$ wise past the GTX or the PT6235.. its in the same boat as the hta3582-86 which are the business but not a full bolt on turbo for the barra :/

I cant blame the bloke.. My Jeeps 20s are 265-50 so a 30 series would be ludicrous hahaha

The link to the Turbo is still on the RHS of the home page.. Seems the link is dead and wont open BUT u can add it to cart still LOL Maybe play dumb and pay for it and im sure they would have to honour it hahaha Ill tell ya if it works next tuesday as if my turbo fails again with the new spring setup ill be probably buying 1..

Iv already sorted the BOV and its a Metal replacement job and have it set to the hardest setting.. im gunna pull it off and have a check of it though.. The rear housing I have is a Pac Performance job, was bought Brand New and its CnC'd with new flapper etc using a new housing so id hate to think theres an issue there :/ and sorry I meant to go to the 82 rear and not the 76.. Sorry to hear bud E85 will still make more power at 17psi though Also you qlders gotta stop talking in hp!!! And MattyP I know its gunna make more but I want a MAX tune out of e85 not a good enough for now tune haha Theres no use tuning on e85 ($$ wise and time wise) with just timing and no boost increase.. if there is a problem YO I want it solved :D LOL Im cool with the 17psi for 98 but I want to wring its neck occasionally on e85 and 17psi is not the 20-22 I know its got in it with boost control sorted..

hey mate.. results are in .. sorta :/ the valve springs kept me from making power increasingly over 6200rpm previously.. these were done b4 new tune.. Ended up with 365kw or 490hp on the 98tune BUT the MTA issue where rose where it wont allow us to increase boost anymore so this figure is still on 17psi :( The verdict is to run a spring pressure closer to the desired boost level so piss off the 12psi spring and upgrade to a 17psi setup.. ALSO at the same time in allowing the car to rev more with the valve springs I seem to have LOST 50-60 torques and a bit of motive force :'( although iv made 10 more KW... AND the Turbo is all of a sudden 100rpm more laggier than the previous dyno session too :/ Iv uprated the Tailshaft since last dyno and done the valve springs and seem to have gone a fair bit backwards .. We didnt do the E85 tune as there was no use trying to turn up boost till the actuator error is sorted.. booked in for 10 days time.. VERY keen to get the GTX core and swap it over in the meantime although id keep my .82 rear I think..

Bomber hopefully I can answer all your questions tomorrow with my E85 tune and the MTA-750... fingers VERY crossed :D lol

here ya go MattyP im heading there tomoz for some goodness for my tune on Friday :D hopefully its not rudely dear.. The Arundel servo is between Labrador and Helensvale on Brisbane Road about 5 mins off the M1..

Thought id throw my recent results in.. ID1000s and a 98 tune with just under 500rwhp.. Just did a long trip from Gold Coast to Newcastle and back.. 720klms point to point and did it in 8hrs flat sitting on 105-115ish most of trip.. Ended up getting 700kms to a single tank and made it all the way to Hexam( 10ks or so from the city) and still had 20ks or so on the "range" but didnt want to run the tank super low and risk not being able to find a BP b4 empty.. The range usually sits between 500-530 on a full fill, so I definately smashed that figure.. I reset all the data on the return trip and range went to just under 600 after fill, so its using the l/100 figure somehow to calculate the range, but as I reset it im not 100% sure hows its coming up with this figure but it definately was a lot different than all the other full tank range figures iv seen.. pretty happy with that range as I thought id be filling up a while b4 I got there e85 tune coming this week so ill redo the figures then.. tuned by Hi Torque Performance on the Gold Coast..