GUN-808

well the inlet elbow widened out to as far as I could whilst retaining enough for a hose to still clamp to it.. and something else in the bottom of the cradle too I remember.. but it was more about the reg I believe is the big deal.. more fuel (like at least 30%) returning to the surge with the bigger hole.. even if theres a tiny bit more going back to the tank.. its more the flow volume that's being returned from the reg to the surge.. if the stock pump can flow 300kw at the injectors im sure its more than capable of filling a 2L surgie and keeping that full and the 044 flowing a heap from that point on.. im not going to add their flow rates together but I reckon together they can keep up with a fair bit of demand from the 1000s.. and again whats not being used is also being returned to surge to keep that volume up..

that's what I wanna hear sct And I thought the kw v hp was an age thing not state by state.. lol And ratter mate u have a hell of a lot more experience than me so ill take most things u say on board BUT ?? with the reg mod your return is only as good as the size of the return line/hole in the reg.. doubling its size with what I replaced has allowed us to lower the base FP a heap and it definately flows a lot more than the stock unit.. so the more fuel that's getting thru that hole and back to the surgie is preventing the surge from drying up under power yeah ?? hence giving the 044/surge I have with this mod a bit more poke before it runs out of pump ?? sorry if im wrong but I thought it was a worthwhile mode for what I wanted to achieve and give me that little bit extra out of the single 044..

No worries ta.. im assuming your talking hp here mate ? id like 450kw/600hp so ill see what they reckon before I book it in.. if Hp im definately looking at a new pump then.. just read in search that the 2 x 044 goes about 640kw

Just a question before I waste money on a dyno session and max out my pump.. Anyone know a good ballpark that sees the 044/surge max out on e85 ?? and whats the most u have seen ?? Currently at 385kw on 98 and about to do an e85 tune for some occasional drags/track work.. Iv done a few small tricks to increase flow like different drop in reg with bigger return, drilled out factory cradle etc.. Its comfortable atm but think its going to really struggle when on 85.. :/ Ill eventually upgrade to a Holley 1400.. But with that comes more $$ of re-tuning my pump tunes, adjustable reg and maybe rail etc.. which I dont really want to have to do.. Pretty sure im not going to recieve the advice I want to hear lol but seeing if someone can give me some results cheers

ok thanx mate.. I have a slight change of plan.. going off your advice I dont want the smell at all so im gunna plumb back the top breather port (where the little filter goes on top) into the X-over where the front breather goes now.. also going to add a 1 way valve into the the pcv line going to the catch can to copy the stock valves function.. hopefully iv got it sorted properly..

Hi guys .. Im just about to build a small setup for a bit of breathability .. Im, for now ,just goin to run it to atmo with a small ProFlow catch can (may plumb the filter back to intake or airbox at some stage ) Im using the -8 ProFlow fittings into the rocker cover and then running both of them into the can with -8(1/2") lines.. Main Question is .. What do I do with the rear line with the pcv elbow in it ?? The hard line ?? Just stick a bolt in it and block it off ?? Or what ?? I will also be blocking off the small hole that goes into the crossover.. Will this all work or will it cause issues like some have said ? Going off others' pix they seem to have this system without problems..

considering im 3 weeks into a 12mnth loss of licence it will be a while before I park anywhere :'( its just something iv conjured up to do while im off the road and have all the time in the world..

lol :(

well the XR bar conversion is out of the question.. its $1200+ I really dont care to spend on looks.. (different headlights too etc to replace) im not sure what part u mean by fold in towards the cooler ? do u mean the centre section between the triangles ?? if so some of the griles come with that section attatched so I can see in the pix.. (see attached pik) the grille is a full round unit yeah ? and the part that folds back over toward the cooler just sits over that section of the plastic grille ? my theory is.. there is a big large large void section behind the grille on a G6 (prob the exact same area without the grille in on an XR bar).. I was thinking the XR grille would fill straight into this part and slot in.. obviously not having the folded over part to sit over the plastic but using it as the flat part ( it will be painted silver ) if not a straight bolt in I could use the corner triangle shaped bits and sika them into place into the corners and onto the bar itself. mounting them to the old "ring" of the old grille too with the grille ####'s cut out. then put the chrome section over the join to hide any joining.. I just dont wanna spend the $120 and get it home and it wont work.. I appreiciate your advice but id prefer if u were saying Yes it will work lol :D ill also post the desired result im after.. in a few pix..

so your saying I need a whole new nose cone.. ??? im happy to make a few minor adjustments if its not 100% direct fit... from the pictures I have of both nose cones and the replacement grille they look pretty close..

Hey hopefully someone can help.. I want to custom modify a G6ET front bar to accept an XR6T front lower grille.. Wondering if anyone can say wether they are the same shape and dimensions and it will accept an aftermarket grille. ?? I like the look of the sunken in lower which shows off the cooler a bit better and hides the end tank joins and piping a bit nicer.. I will paint the outsides the same silver as the upper grille and maybe leave the centre part black (ill paint it all silver if I dont like it) and also mate the chrome trim around the edge to set it off a bit nicer too.. I cant say iv ever seen it done b4 so hopefully someone can shed some light.. cheers..

Maybe try one of these kits ? Uses hot melt glue that u stick on and it pops it out easily.. heaps of YouTube how to's and it looks pretty simple and easy if u do it properly.. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-Paintless-Dent-Hail-Dint-Dings-Damage-Repair-Remover-Puller-Removal-Tool-Kit-/111158853706?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item19e195804a

It will fit yes.. BUT a truetrac will always provide MUCH better traction than an LSD.. my diff guy said like 30% lockup compared to 70% with a truetrac.. so theres a big difference.. if your getting it at the "right price" theres a chance its funked already or will be real soon.. SO my advice if your set on buying it id rebuild it at a minimum BEFORE you install it as once u have done a RnR on the cradle your not gunna wanna take on that job anytime soonly if u dont have access to a hoist or have the patience to do it again soon.. probably do your diff bushes while your there and have the cradle out for above reasons..

Sorry Trana I should have been more specific with regards to Xcal = I mean SCT as in I dont use HP.. My tuna charges $400 for a "zf tune" (some I know charge $500+).. ill reiterate the issue with SCT that I HATE the fact I have bought a near $1K computer and I have no access to it myself.. !! Im well aware of the 50something parameters that's tunable within the ZF but all I really wanna know if there is a simple solution to disable it, meaning a check/uncheck box kinda option ??????????? I will be doing a gearbox build in the near future and most box tuners I have read dont give warranty if theres a tune done to it so I see it as $400 better spent toward the rebuild..

just sound it out mate 1 syllable at a time if your still struggling.. I can always use capitals and pauses if your still stuck :/

Hi.. Was curious if it was possible to easily disable the gearbox learn function thru the X-Cal3 ?? I do mostly putting around and after a while the box becomes sloppy, changes delayed, flairing sorta.. And when I do go to give it a bit it seems like its not doing it any favours and can only be hurting the box.. After a reflash its perfect again and smooth.. for a while.. Basically my box is telling me I drive like a pussy :/ Is it something my tuner can just easily disable without a drama and paying them to tune ? It would just make it easier for me and I dont have to flash every month or so when it becomes annoying and I think my box is on the way out everytime it starts to happen..

Nice ride and a great mods list.. sounds like where most of us boys would like to be with mods, power and times.. Should sh*t in a 10 on a good run esp with the extra 25kw.. Im in the same boat in regards to racing up here.. probably get myself back to Willowbank in about April to hopefully get that 10 too What tyres are ya running mate to have gotten the 11.0 ? If on genuine streeters its even more impressive :D (cant see in the pik too much smoke hahaha ) :D

Well a few days u stated your car made 400 no 396kw.. so to quote ANY figure your car makes is really no benefit to this thread.. Given BA XR manual, cams etc DOES NOT EQUAL G6ET stockish with ZF.. !!! AND your first post in this thread guessing this blokes power is only 283kw SO im assuming your saying if he puts a sh*t old f6 3582 on he will somehow make 350kw so 67kw increase by a small turbo upgrade ??

Theres actually a thread where it states that most of the input shaft snapages on stock boxes etc come from the GTX76 as it cant deal with the down low torque and the blokes where I got my quote on both turbos theres only $150 diff between the both.. either a 76 or 82 with ported housing, 12psi gate etc is over $2K anyways :D

LOL sweeeet well that explains a LOT ... your comparing a BA !!!! with CAMS, AND a MANUAL to a G6eT FG with a ZF ??????? DUDE cmon... normally u give reasonable advice but seriously your input here is horsesh*t !!!!! Wrong horse Wrong course !!!! comment on Apples not your orange :/

U made 400kw on 98 on the stock gt3582 ? seems more like GTX82 territory yeah :/ im struggling to make that with a billet wheeled, .7d front covered etc 3582.. and the GTX76 boys are maxing out around 370ish too :/

What MattyP and Masda74 said is pretty much on the money, with the advice on the turbos.. The question is not really how much power do u eventually want but how much u have to spend later.. Anything over 380kw or so isnt doing your box any favours at all.. So theres $5-6K IF u build it b4 it breaks.. and a transcooler and flex plate while your there another $1K.. Add a tailshaft, $1300 IF u do it b4 it breaks.. and your probably gunna wanna do a TruTrac by then too $2K.. Prob a set of billet oil pump gears another $500.. And there ya go u have spent $10K and u havent even unleashed any more power.. Ya can try tick too many boxes with these things at the same time unfort.. cause of the ease and cheapness of power to be made.. Im pretty much where u are and it pays to be a bit on the conservative side IF u dont have a good bank backup.. :D

Jet all my research came from The Turbo Forum and the Mustang and Camaro etc forums.. They arent anywhere near that power or are chasing them times.. They may be slightly lighter but the guards are similar sizes and they are pretty much trying to stuff the biggest tyre under a guard and put it down as we are.. Also most of them are in the same power band (400-700hp) obviously there are some higher ones from both camps but in saying that I learned a LOT from these sites when I read into it.. 60 foot times ETs and HP figures are all very relative to our Fords.. The only real diff is that they didnt give a hoot about big brakes and all used a 15" in rim under the ass end.. lol

I am not dealing in theory mate.. im talking about the years of research iv done into this and also transfering that into practice with my old car.. 60'd in the 1.2s and ALL suspention work etc was setup and tuned by myself with the information I gathered and learned both online and at the track.. when talking "runs on the board" im pretty sure guys going from a 1.8 street tyre and getting this to mid 1.5s are going to call that a success and be sastisfied BUT im pretty sure with a bigger rim (9, 9.5 or 10) it would give a better result.. the only way is to test it back to back I guess.. Im not super up to date yet with what all the FASTer guys use with our cars but I dont think they are playing round with 275s on 8s.. ? as said before based on my knowledge id prefer a 10" rim as opposed to an 8" job..

theres no use a sidewall doing its job if it hasnt got the perfect equally spread contact patch that it depends on to "hook".. with a "rag" tyre its more important..radials are a diff story.. 18psi is pretty high.. iv always run a FULL slick on 8-10 psi to let it do its job and id look at around 14ish with an ET street.. over inflating causes ballooning and dramatically narrowing the contact patch to only use the middle of the tyre..