shockF6

the only thing at the back off the ICC is a large molex plug. If the ICC isnt pluged into that correctly then nothing works, but if you didnt take out the ICC durning your install then that wont be your problem.

that's easy to tell. when the car kit has control the screen changes to let you know. Im not sure what the green screen ICC says when the car kit is active but it may say "media". Im thinking that the likely cause of your problem is in a wiring short where you grabed your signal from. Just make sure that no bare wires are touching together around the section where you cut into them for the LLC. If you have a short the ICC will detect the problem and shut down the output stage to protect itself. A dead short can also be caused by a dead speaker. You can use a multi meter set on the ohms scale to check your speakers. They should read 3.5 - 4.5 ohms when there not plugged in to the wiring loom.

there under the ICC. Did you take the ICC out when you did your install of the amp? and on that amp install, where did you get the signal from?

have you been playing with the fader control? just make sure its set to the center position. If you turn the volume up to 35 can you hear any noise at all from the speakers? even with the cd on pause you should hear a kind of hiss noise when you turn the volume flat out. If there is no noise at all when on 35 then either the speaker wire plug under the ICC has come out or there is some other problem in the wiring between the ICC and speakers. Its also possable that the internal amp in the ICC has died. If you can hear the hiss noise from turning the volume to full but cant hear the radio or cd then its a internal problem with the ICC. The fact that you have recently conected up new amps would suggest to me that you may have done something during the install that the ICC didnt like or even just knocked a plug so now your getting a problem when it was ok just after you installed the amps. I hope this helps

a modified xbox is the way to go. and if you have one lying around already you can get it into your car for as little as $150. There are many topics on this so if your interested you should have a go at searching for the word 'xbox'

the wiring loom that your talking about isnt a standard feature in the fords. you have a couple of options here, Ford sell a boosted and unboosted cable that you can use and I have also designed a box that plugs in the same as the ford product with the only diference being that the box I have also cleans up the audio signal so you wont get much if any whine through the speakers. If you want more info you can read about the box I designed by clicking HERE

its probably just the relays clicking on and off.

it sounds like a problem with the car rather than the battery. If the battery was internally shorting itself out then it wouldnt matter if you disconected the terminals or not. Having said that the smell you described is coming from the battery. Id say your up for a new battery but before you install it, find out what was making the noise in the fuse box because its obviously related to the problem your having

im not 100% sure because ive never used one. I was thinking about designing something to do the job though because I could make one for around 1/2 what there charging

ASL sell a product that will do what you want. I'm pretty sure they charge $170 for it

In my experience with LLC's you are always better off to grab the signal before you amplify it. The ICC amplifier is quite dirty but the line level signal that the ICC generates is a good flat signal. its only downfall is the low peak to peak output. its not too hard to modify the ICC to give you line level out. you can pay someone like ASL to do it for you or if your good with a soldering iron you can have a crack at it yourself as I have done. Cheers Troy

did you really hook up perm power to the car kit plug try getting the power from the back of the "power source" socket. It will give you the current that your head unit requires.

I used to run SAV (norton corporate version) and had done so for years. After my update to Vista I decided to change to Kaspersky as there the only people who are giving you a 3rd party firewall option for Vista at the moment. Long story short, Kaspersky found 8 email viruses on my computer during its first system scan that norton let through without any hassles at all. so I guess im saying that its not only the system slowing down that norton suffers from. its also letting through viruses that kaspersky is catching. I say go Kaspersky!!!

the short answer is NO it will not work. the reason being is that a VGA signal will output a minimum sync frequency of 60hz. to sucessfully use the ICC screen you need to sync the image at 30hz.

hate to break it to you but none of the BA utes have traction control If you want to fix your cars ability to brake traction then I suggest you contact a tuner that can tune capa edits and go from there