Ralph Wiggum

LOL you've both dropped plenty of cradles....jus sayin

I've not had my work IT security system or Telstra's own jazz actively block the site until after the upgrade Keif

^whs. First vid sounds like a whole lot of exhaust leaks, second sounds like a whole lot of normal.

Yes and No The rating on the actuator is technically the minimum boost you can run. However this rule of thumb assumes the wastegate is capable of flowing enough to support the base boost pressure. If you install and properly setup a 15lb actuator on a stock turbine housing/wastegate port it WILL over boost as the wastegate will not flow enough to bypass suffcient exhaust gas pressure if opening from 15lb. Rule of thumb #2 is you should run a wastegate base spring pressure of aprox 1/2 your desired boost pressure. Again this assumes sufficient wastegate efficiency, but this may not give you the best turbo response. So a well ported wastegate (or external gate) and slightly higher than 1/2 spring rate will give you better response but also flow enough to control boost. All of the above assumes your intake and exhaust are also up to the task, so without know current mods/setup and what you're planning it difficult to give a definitive answer.

@jeturbo, @ralphwiggum hasn't been able to login since the last "upgrade" lots and lots of malicious software and phishing warnings across varies devices and network connections. Eric, I've got one if you still need one.

Very unlikely it's the TMAP at fault Has the car been tuned/fiddled with? Also the pic posted above is a non turbo TMAP sensor location. Turbo require removal of intake piping and throttle body to access the sensor.

Exhaust leaks.

if in doubt,clout

Reduced cost if all you need is a pwm controlled pump, PCM Speed control signal output and a FPS.

External speed controller I have now is built into the Reg. No pressure sense for pressure control bothers me.

Pump speed control. No return, pump output based on engine demand.

Yeah but LPG is for Fork Lifts and BBQ's Or ecoboost G6's? aren't they a completely different ECU?   Do it. I detest surge tanks and running big pumps flat out all the time. I'm primed as my fuel pump will take take a PWM control signal and im part way through and intank conversion. Driving this with one wire from the ECU would make me very happy HACCKFB KGO Get that working and you can post a pic of me using my MVPI as a door stop (well temp door stop as I'll need still need it for logging ...hint hint)

No I haven't. Agree re painful. Start harassing Toads his mustang needs boost and a tune.

My F6 does Rolls. But only because I've got a fuel lab pump and reg setup that varies pump speed based on return flow... The only return flow systems I've seen with FPS's are the diesel setups. Enable returnless control. We can all run mustang dual intank modules and pump controllers and get on with life.

I think its closer to 115% imported

Our resident metalolologist will chime in at some stage but that pipe has cracked due to poor quality steel being place under stress. Hence cracked next to the weld and propagated from there.

Am Not, I'm either A Street Tuner A Dyno Tuner A Racetrack Tuner But never a backyard tuner as although I've got a decent size back yard, getting up to speed and stopping without hitting the fence is very difficult.

Are you able to source any additional flanges and transition pieces?

If your cars idling like sh*t at stoich you have a bigger issue. Have a listen to the power and speed podcast EP with Greg Banish. Lots of good info about cats and lambda.

Unless you want your cats to stay lit and not melt

About 5k over priced given the kms imho

Do it

It's an easy fix Requires a couple of changes to the torque converter lock up maps. The surge is the car shifting between two or three maps and unlocking and locking the tc. ^this guy, dropping the one liner knowledge bombs

The Train Put the ute on it I'll fix it.

Are you missing any rubber gloves?