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Ralph Wiggum

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Everything posted by Ralph Wiggum

  1. (8900.2 x 5933.4 cm). <----did i read that right....89metres x 59.334 metres? thats no a photo mate thats half a footy field!!! i did i just read that wrong?
  2. u can just bend them but thats a bit fugly for my taste and its hard to bend them without kinking them...u can just cut the off and slip the hose onto the pipe and use two good quality hose clamps on each hose. my preferred method is to reflair the tube ends...and decent trans shop should be able to do that for you. u could always just clamp the hoses then take i to a trans shop and get the ends flaired and proper unions fitted.
  3. sounds to me like its just ur turbo spooling up. u cant really hear it with the sotcky exhaust. my ute sound a bit like a 747 taking off now.
  4. yeah thought that was spewin was in the old boys auIII on lpg with half a tonne of blue metal in the trailer otherwise there would have been a hot pursuit if i had my 6t ute i wanna simons in action...hang on isnt simons plate xtremef6?
  5. yeah mate midvale/midland area..
  6. does it kinda sound like a rush of air when u get on the throttle then a flock of pigeons (coo coo coo!) when u get off the throttle?
  7. the top pipe on the cooler is the "hot"s side and that need to be plumed into the top of the rad. only mount the cooler with the inlet/oulet fittingd pointing straight up or side ways not downward otherwise u may get some airlocks in there. i made the mount out of 25 by 3mm flatbar..nice and strudy. i used 3/8(10mm) id hose makes sure u get hose thats rated for trans fluid as it can degrade some other hosing (ie fuel or air hose) i use two 90degree elbows to get the hosing all neat and tidy. i used a pipe flaring tool to flare the ends of the stock pipe work behind the radiator. i bought the cooler and the flare nut to barbed fittings from robin at technical transmissons in wangara...tell him look with the purple ute with the big intercooler sent u and u want the same setup. cooler was about 98 bucks and the total install cost was less then 150 bucks cause i made the mounts and fitted it all myself. ive attached some more pics of the hosing and mount setup to help ya out. (dont worry bout the dodgy mocisans the old boys wearing he's that old he can remember when they where cool ) hope this helps ya out
  8. maybe we could read our manuals and follow what they say...i mean there only written by the engineers that design and build the motors.....!
  9. okay who owns the black typhoon with plates that read "2mnykw or 2mnyhp" that was crusin down stanhope gardens bout 12pm on monday the 27th? just interested first black one if seen....sounded a bit "tweaked" too...
  10. forgive my ignorance but is the cooler recessed into the front of the front itrustion bar? did u notch the bar to get it to fit or did u just trim the bejesus out of the bumper? either way nice job. i'd rather just chop up a plastic bumper than any structure of the car. id proly go 270 or 260 high in the cooler so it didnt hang down...one thing is for sure the fooly sick vl turbo boys are gonna be wondering what the hell is going on with that car if urs...
  11. i picked mine up from john houlder at intune motorsport for $750 nine months ago....fitted it myself in about 4 hours
  12. start by removing the two metal screw and four plastic "scrivits" that are located in thr front wheel arch at the back of the bumper.(you'll need to go lock to lock on the steering each way to get a screw driver in there)open the bonnet and remove the two scrivits that hold the grill peice in. it clips into the bumper at the bottom of the grill just gently pop it up. then remove the four scrivits that hold the plastic panel under the bonnet release lever and remove that piece, u should now be able to see the two bolts that hold the top of the bumper remove them(i think u need a 10mm socket.) remove the number plate and check if there is a bol in the recessed hole behind the plate if there is remove it. get another person and each grab the top rear corner of the bumper on each side where it meets the front mudgaurd the gently pull the bumper edges out and forward. it may take a bit of force to get the clips to pop just be careful of the paint and once u have them free walk the bumper forward and sit it on the ground about a foot in front of the car an unplug the fog lamps....oh yeah i forgot before u remove the grill etc jump under near and remove the self tapping bolts and screw that hold the plastic undertray up. hope that helps
  13. a coupla pic of the cooler that show the mount and plumbing. u can also see the ditry great big duct im runnin for my cai thats 100mm diameter the one for the cooler is 75mm
  14. if ur in perth talk to a guy called robin at technical transmissions...he did the prototyping for ford on these trans....he sold me a sh*t hot alloy cooler that i fabbed up mounts for and mounted behind the rh foglamp with a duct to feed it. if u have any doubt about bypassing the stock cooler have a think about how hot the coolant still is at its "coolest" (ie BLOODY HOT!!! 80 odd degree's). then think cool air flowing over a proper cooler whats gonna keep ur trans cooler.? i can post a pic of my setup ir you like..
  15. not the best pics but u get the idea. i also had to shorten the cast pipe that goes under the battery to get my hose alignment right. im making 300+rwkw with this cooler
  16. if u know the flow rate u need or poundage one word WWW.SUMMITRACING.COM (in lower case obliviously) squiters so cheap you'l cry......(oh yeah and proly go faster if you get the right ones...)they even tell yah how much hp there good for etc...good site
  17. your pcv vents into the pipe that feeds the inlet side of ur turbo. you'll always have some there because unlike a n/a car your engine spends a fair bit of time pressurised. unless it starts losing power of blowing sh*teloads of WHITE smoke under full boost/throttle i wouldnt worry about it. just check ur engine oil whenever u fuel up or wash ur car...
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