Ralph Wiggum

Yes

If you want to invest the time and cash, Just do it. Familiarity is the enemy of innovation.

Decent pads a fluid mate. You need a track oriented pad (ie pmu hc800) that cope with the extra heat and a quality silicon based brake fluid.

Alpha n here we come

^WHS F6 airbox will happily support 340/350rwkw. Those pipes will cost you more power than the airbox.

Fit a swaybar to the rear. It'll stop the torque reaction underloading one tyre.

They are just a v-band clamp but possible a different ID. I just went with the Marmon so If I want to swap to the .94 housing for lol's it's a bolt in deal. I couldn't bring one in from the US any cheaper than GCG could supply so went with them. they knocked $180 odd off the retail total for all the items I bought and covered 5 day freight. Plus IMHO the BW's look wicked compared to a PTE or Garrett.

$1750 landed in Perth for it, the marmon flange and clamp and a couple of odds and sods, from GCG in Syndey. If you're interested I'll pass on the detail of the bloke I dealt with. Very knowledgeable and good to deal with.

The split pulse highmount will help as will the divided housing, housing is 1.01. Obviously, it won't (shouldn't?) spool as quick as the gtx3676r but the pay off should be the extra midrange/top end. Given the wheel is much bigger on the s300-sxe it won't need to spin as quick to produce the same airmass as the gtx3576r so it will be interesting. Not expectation really just doing it for S's&G's EDIT- Sorry Camo, I deleted your double post and for some reason it nuked the original as well.

yesir

So close I'll probably need to cut the mounting flanges off and weld the turbo directly to the manifold.

Borg Warner 13009097055

whizzledizzle

Bov is plumbed incorrectly. It needs a boost/vacuum signal from after the throttle body. it won't open as it's plumbed now.

is the bov boost sense line going to the turbo?

Did lots of measuring, ordered a part. got part, installed part. Part hit another part it shouldn't. Felt sad,had a beer, worked out the part the part was bolted to was too close to the other parts because I was using a tool to hold up the part that didn't have the usual part in the right place to hold the part. Turns out when the part is in the place it should be when the part that holds up the part is in place, the part that was hitting the other parts doesn't hit the other part.

Thommo with the Zinger!

Hard shifts could just be the box having adjusted it's shift profile to suit the driving style. Not comforting as it may give away how it was driven but don't condemn it just yet.

Getting one up on Telstra and getting free super duper speed boost package for Nix. 100mbps in da house.

Insurance company may not be too happy about the car being left unattended and unsecured whilst running.

He's right down in the bushy part.

I'm assuming by the no bull advice comment you're referring to a well know suspension franchise. Personally, I would send the photo's of the arms and a copy of the receipt through this - http://www.pedders.com.au/feedback and follow it up with a phone call. If I was in charge of the parent company running the no bull name i'd sure as hell like to know about quality of work like that coming out of a franchisee's workshop.

I thought the stock narrowband values in the gauge where as per a typical Bosch sensor anyway? For the wide band, it's more a matter of programming the Xcal so suit the MTX-L rather than the other way around. @IH8TOADS chime in please.

Nope. They are not safe to reinstall.

You're not going to find those measurements anywhere. Only solution will be to measure yourself. FG F6 sedan? Please please please don't buy such a killer set of wheels and go lame offset. Go 20 or lower on the front. 35ish on the rear. Any extra offset is only going to help with brake clearance, plus you may run into clearance issues on the inside with a 10" @ 40 offset.