Ralph Wiggum

Fark me. No symptoms of that while driving?

Yes you can rotate it with some force. It's tight but won't hurt the spring or shock. The top hat needs to be oriented in a particular direction to prevent noise from the springs. If you haven't got a copy of the manual let me know and I'll post up the info.

Can I post the screen shots of the several hundred msg Whatsapp convo's trying to work out what this was and the tremendous amount of shitpost suggestions that where included?

Use sound analyser pro from the Google Play Store

Either old dry rotted tyres (why looks likely given the way the bulge is separated) Or under inflated and run at speed at some point(assuming load rating is correct)

@turboknappSkids and 3rd gear exists off toodjay road included at no extra charge

Thommo, there's enough meat in the pump inlet fitting bore to take it for a dash 10 o ring fitting. Then it's simply a matter of plumbing it with appropriate an fittings. Otherwise there is a commodore pump (ve possibly) that's identical to the ford pump but has a push on hose fitting rather than an oring bore.

Download a frequency monitor app and take some recordings. Post results Inc specific driving conditions when it occurs ie gear and speed. If it's a specific frequency range that is causing issues its easily fixed with a correctly sized J pipe. If it's overall too loud you'll need to look at mufflers.

What exhaust noise are you trying to attenuate? Just pure volume or specific drone?

I find your lack of skids disturbing

Please consider the insurance implications of not reporting a fault such as this to your supply authority if the worst was to happen.

Did you bleed/burp the heater/bypass circuits in the cooling system? Also given its a new build is it possible a plug or but of rag got left somewhere it shouldn't have been?

(Tues) Carried on with mocking up all the bits to support the new turbo. Started on the top side of the dump. Was all going well till I used my thumb for the earth lead for my tig so called time and will crack on later in the week. It's a pretty tight fit but should turn out well. Wastegate outlet is going to be a challenge but should be nice and short and able to enter the dump at a fairly shallow angle. (Today) Has some family free time today so got to crack on with the lower section of the dump. It's longer than usual as it also deletes the cat. The extra whoop dee doo's in the middle and to tuck it up for clearance and also give me more clearance for the steering rack and steering shaft. Not the best pic but the previous dump sat well below the rail at this point and was forever dragging on driveways/speed bumps/etc etc and the cars not even that low. Unfortunately I was about 15deg short of all the bends I need (used an entire 3.5' doughnut) so had to pie cut and section a piece of straight tube to take up the gap. I'll weld the join between the down pipe and lower section last so I can clean up the transition between the bends and the sectioned straight piece after its all welded out. Now onto the next challenge..the wastegate piping...

It's doable, but that level of damage would need very careful measuring to establish the correct hieght before machining/facing to remove the damage and would like need some form of spacer to restore the correct spacing for the flywheel to stater and clutch release mechanism.

That red paint does not hold up well. I'd bet it's a 20footer at best.

That missing LCD segment still makes me twitch. Is that an mtx-l you've got in the fpv pod? WDYDTYCT? Walked out to the shop, sat the turbo blanket on the turbo. Came inside for a nap...

Is that how the crank looked before you bolted up the clutch?

Looking at the way the bolts have broken I think you need to get the surface flatness on the flywheel mounting surface and crank flange checked and also get the crank and flywheel run out checked @arronm your thoughts?

"inverted comma's"

/Vultureonacarcas If you're not able to use the water meth setup I'd be interested in it.

I'd wave solely for the reason it would freak my neighbour the fuck out, as per above.

No you can access them from underneath

Have you removed the two bolts that are buried down either side of the rear main seal

Wat?

You're assuming op can drive a multimeter and has the gear to disassemble the doors/wiring looms etc to test. I'd rather plug in a code reader and test via a laptop before stripping doors.