Ralph Wiggum
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Everything posted by Ralph Wiggum
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BA wagon turbo conversion using ford parts
Ralph Wiggum replied to Lunchietey's topic in Ford 4.0L N/A Discussion
You wastegate plan will work fine. You'll be able to fiddle with preload to get your desired boost. But you'll be balancing a boost spike around 3500 against the boost coming on veeeeeery lazy and dropping off up top. -
That video was the development engine.....
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You can do it on an airport apron with a borrowed screwdriver and a 12" shifter if you're motivated enough. I've got one inbound via Australia post at the moment. The g&g ggt-101 that is
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Because calibration of an engine management system requires more than a quick pull to give a prudy number. Engines are held for hours and hours at fix rpm and load points during development.
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It's amazing how strong stuff is when you don't give a flying I <3 Bananas about it.
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What...? Music...? Are You Listening, Too? (Music Video Watching)
Ralph Wiggum replied to turbo.vixen's topic in Off-Topic
I've always been a fan of Everlast/Whitey Ford way back to the early house of pain days and found out recently about his new project - Warpon Industries. I'm flatout loving it thus far. The whole album is available for download for free direct from the group here- https://www.warpornindustries.com/mixtape/ Some Vids- and the whole album -
Keen for the foam blocks if the whole lot doesn't sell. Assuming they are e85 compatible
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Cheers mate, pm inbound.
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Cheers, it'll look more like this one with the four retaining clips, If you don't want the harness between the bulkhead and fuel pump I'll take that as well.
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Nah not the pump etc, just this bit thanks It will unclip from the hat and slide out
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I think you should remove the wiring connector from it and send it over this way.
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What's happening with the old intank module kieth?
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Factory connector and vapour side wiring is good for 30amps. Chassis side wiring is not. I've seen substantial volt drop to high volume in tanks with stock chassis side wiring. I doubt it would be an issue with a 255 though.
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Is the pump seated properly?
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No, green stripe isn't submersible. It's a specific hose designed for in tank use. It's rated for alcohol and petroleum submersion. http://www.gates.com/products/automotive/passenger-car-and-light-truck/fuel-system/submersible-fuel-line-hose Needs to be sae30r10 or higher. I don't have a piece with the part number handy unfortunately
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I use gates submersible hose, but Loop it so the hose is free to flex, otherwise raceworks now do replacement hard plastic convoluted hose similar to the factory hose
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I've been resisting the urge to point out the irony in all this spending on the red car Maint I could handle but we are deep in mod territory now.
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42lbr's are an excellent match for a car aiming for moderate power figures that won't kill the auto.
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Is the munted thread in the sump? If so bulk room to helicoil it. Plug the drain hole with rag first and don't drill all the way through. The holes are blind from the factory.
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Honk....
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I hadn't seen that question, if the thread is munted and jams before compressing the gasket to the point it'll seal then the only fixed is to fix the thread. Otherwise a sly washer on the bolt may give enough compression before it jams. Either way paper gaskets in an area that sees as much heat as a turbo drain is testicles and a high temp oring arrangement will always be better
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No. I have no doggie in this scrap. Not all the way through to the diffuser but through the thread and flange. I'd still run it though.
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Last two appear cracked to me?
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Good to see nordlocs will be used
