Ralph Wiggum

These settings below for me for functional cruise control, but the "Set" indication on the dash did work. I thought it may have been an FPV cluster config difference. The switch input needs to be B16 Pin not CAN. The rest of the inputs for the CC are CAN so I was working with Haltech on it, but haven't followed up as Im using the IC now. On the IC7 im using the Trac/Launch control icon with the colour changed to Green for Cruise Active Indicator and Cruise

Mobile interface is still junk after all these years

The hoist is in the workshop, that picture is in the garage

The hoist is in the workshop, that picture is in the garage

Dipstick goes into the block not the sump. Thes a casting in the block that needs to be drilled out to suit the FG block and B series Sump link below https://www.facebook.com/groups/835157856682373/posts/1304549436409877/

Did you fix it? Running the pump low has probably cooked it causing it to draw more current. Keep in mind a 10 amp fuse is desgined to support its rated currenr as a constant and not blow at that rating. Some fueses will support 25 to 50% above rated current to prevent fuses blowing on a minor current spike. Down side is this can allow the circuit to run on the top end of it's capacity resulting in meltage

Long time between drinks- Impala Engine and Trans Rebuild Hollery EFI conversion Disc Brakes all round New Floor New suspension all round Interior Refresh F6 New Semi Slicks all round Halteh Elite Pro Plug In Flex Fuel Engine oil and Fuel Pressure Engine protection Stock Oil and Boost Gaueges running off Haltech Staged Fuel Pumps (2x 460s) IC7 Dash A couple of speeding fines

Did you get it to work? HPP, IC7, Flex Fuel and CC all working on my F6

Air leak from the intake manifold gasket If you leave it long enough it'll go into closed loop fuel control and will calm down They normaly got right @#1 cylinder due to the heat from the thermostat housing

The exhaust housing is cast steel not cast iron. It'll weld fine without pre and post heat but if you have the facilities preheat is the go. Heat it to 200 deg, weld it and then wrap it in heap of old welding gauntlets (you should have plenty being in the trade) and let it cool down at its own rate. Ive done heaps with and without preheat and haven't had one crack yet. The temps the turbine housing gets to in operation is good for normalising and stress relieving the weld once it's in service

Nah install was junk. Will do a proper installation and get it on 72spokes once it's rego'd Basic resto then get it licensed and cruise it.

I don't have a method per sae. I just train them has worked for the last 3 dogs. Might watch Zak George, hopefully he's got some tips on training the kids....

It aint.

Got a new Litte Mate a few weeks ago. She's already settled into the Shed Dog role.

Was changing wiper blades, instructions where unclear so I cut the floor out

As you do when you are bored in June Dat Ass Doe

Yup

Yup

same as previous post. BTR bolts will suit the ZF convertor

Have run a gtx3576 on a 6 boost low mount. Response was exceptional. Great combo in a manual car

Correct, once latched it'll stay off. Id suggest swapping the fuel pump relay with another relay in the engine bay fuse box to see if the fault moves with it. Could also be a poor connection on the pump or simply the pump is politely telling you its on the way out.

Awesome work Gerald