Mustangman570

I'm going to smooth and paint the engine bay before the motor is final mounted, but I'm leaving the rest if the paint untouched. The plan is to hurt some feelings in the area first. Then I'll paint the whole car.

Oh I am well aware haha. I don't even bother with a budget. Not that I'm made of money, I just know if I say a build is going to cost X amount of money I know I'm lying as the words are leaving my mouth. So I just buy things as I find them at a deal, or as I can trade or barter for them. Glad to know that its not just me trying to fool myself or my wife haha.

Thanks! I finally finished my turbo V6 F150, and this is the next one on my list. Hopefully it will only take 6 months at most.

I am not sure if this is the correct part of the Forum, if it isn't please let me know where to move it. With that out of the way. I have a 1993 Mustang coupe affectionately known as the Red Stallion! Unfortunately its a 4 cylinder car so its more like a pony. But I'm about to fix that. This will be a long build, so be patient. I will try to keep updating it as often as possible. Motor: NA BF Barra motor that will be getting a set of forged H-beam rods and forged pistons made by Manley. Along with a set of upgraded valve springs and ARP head and main studs. Of course a nice turbo hanging off the side. My goal is 800 hp, so I could use a recommendation on a turbo. Transmission: Just to get the car running as fast as possible I'll start with a T5 manual. But I'll be using a 4R70W 4-speed auto with an adapter plate to make it work with the Barra. In the future I'll be using the 6R80 6-speed transmission found in the 2012-2012 Mustang. Suspension: In the front I'll be using a tubular front suspension from UPR, we can legally use tubular front ends on the street here. In the rear I'll be using UPR adjustable upper and lower control arms with solid bushings. Out with the old 2.3 4-cylinder. I couldn't resist dropping it into place to see what its going to look like. I've already arranged to have a FG front sump oil pan sent to me. Front suspension I'll be using. I bought this suspension almost 2 years ago. Its been in the box in my shed waiting all this time. Rear suspension I'll be using. Subframe connectors.

I paid the wrecker $200 each engine, I purchased 7 of them. This motor is one of those 7. Getting a turbo motor for $200 is pure dumb luck on my part. That why I couldn't believe it.

I would lo e to get my hands on that new 10 speed. That transmission is amazing. I'm putting one of these motors in my Foxbody Mustang, one in my brothers Jeep Wrangler and one in my F150.

America

That is what I thought. Thank you very much!

Does this pic help?

Yes they are. I had 7 of them imported. I plan on keeping 2 and selling the other 5. My last resort is to pull the head off and check the pistons, I was hoping for an external indicator. Is there a way of telling from the bottom? I have heard the turbo motor has piston oil squirters, can anyone confirm this? I would rather pull the oil pan than the head. I'm mainly trying to decide which 2 motors to keep. If this turns out to be a turbo motor I can sell for a little more. Use that profit to purchase better rods and pistons for the 2 motors I am keeping.

I have attached a pic of the oil drain back on the engine that is confusing me along with a pic of a confirmed NA motor. As you can see the hole is drilled through to the pan and the 2 bolt holes are drilled and tapped. The other pic is what I was referring to by "a place where the hole should be." See why I'm confused? Red valve cover (I know a can of paint can make any valve cover red), NA exhaust manifold, Turbo intake manifold, NA fuel injectors. BUT the oil drain hole is drilled and the turbo oil supply hole is open.

Try reading my whole post next time.

This motor has a hole in the oil sup where the turbo oil drain would be. The NA motors I have all have the same boss in the pan, the hole is just blocked off. This is a really confusing motor.

Obviously one motor has a turbo hanging off the side. Is there a difference in the casting number on the head or block? I know that the red valve cover is usually a turbo motor, but I think I have an NA motor with a turbo valve cover that someone put on for looks. If I pull the oil pan can I tell the difference between the two? If so what are the differences. Does anyone happen to have a picture of a stock turbo piston and stock NA piston? I though about pulling a spark plug and looking at the top of the piston with a bore scope, but I don't have a reference picture to compare. Thank you in advance.

That orange 1965 is the reason I have p in so much effort to get a Barra. I know that car has the SOHC, but that led me down the rabbit hole of bad ass Aussie motors. I'll be starting with a T5 simply because it is what I have in hand, just to get the car up and running with the Barra as quickly as possible. I plan on making an adapter plate to mate the Barra to a windsor bolt pattern, then once it is up and running I'll make a plate to mate it to the 4.6/5.4 bolt pattern. By having both adapter plates I will have a ton of transmission options. I will most likely be using an auto. THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! I will start looking for an F sump. Thank you for the heads up.

I want one, but it is not in the budget, yet. I have been looking around for a little while now, I can't find dimensions on the actual motor. How long/tall/wide is the motor with intake and exhaust manifolds on. They dont have to be exact, ballpark an inch or 2 is all I need. Thank you guys! The people on this forum are super friendly!

I am actually importing 7 of them. 1 to put in my 1993 Fox Mustang Coupe. 1 to put in my brother's 1997 Jeep Wrangler. The other 5 are to sell, hopefully for enough profit to pay for my motor. I honestly don't care about my brother's Wrangler swap, I'm doing it as a favor, the real interest of mine is the Fox. I can get forged rods and pistons locally, as well as the ARP head and main studs. I am buying NA motors and replacing the internals with good parts. The difference in price for an NA motor and a turbo motor is enough to buy all the necessary good parts to make the NA motor stronger than the turbo motor. Shooting for 600hp to the wheels, for now. I will see how it goes. I would like to source as many parts locally as possible, not just to save money, but for reasons of time and convenience. If I have to source parts overseas I will. But I have enough trouble waiting 2 days for race car parts coming from the next state over, I don't know if I'll make waiting for parts from Australia. It's taken 6 months to get the motors, I'm like an alcoholic waiting for my next drink. Probably going to be a manual for starters (T5) I will eventually be going auto, either a 4r70w or if I can get a controller for a reasonable price I'll go with a 6r80. I may just leave the stock gears and lower the limiter to be safe. This helps! Thank you! If you have a set of stock gears lying around and you are bored one night, I would greatly appreciate you giving me those measurements. I may take you up on that. I'm mainly looking into potential future issues, I won't have the motors in hand for another 6 weeks or so, and won't have them in the car for a few weeks after that.

Thanks. That does help some, but since these engines are a major pain to have imported and not exactly cheap, I would rather do the oil pump gears at a minimum to make sure I don't hurt it once its in. Does anyone know if the 4.6/5.4 pump gears are the same? I can always order some from atomic, but if I can get them more locally it would help on cost.

As far as I understand some of the weak points of the Barra are the head bolts, valve springs and oil pump gears. I know ARP makes head studs so that is one problem solve. My main question os the oil pump gears. Are they the same as the 4.6/5.4? I can get those easily over here in the USA, which would make things easier for me. Also, are the valve springs the same as a 4.6/5.4 or anything else that is easily acquired stateside?