Serangan

I've done it, see here. http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/88491-serangans-ba-mkii-xr6t/?p=1493687 I also know Spyathe has also done it also. And depends what the car is optioned with, does it have the colour ICC? in which case you can buy a video converter that plugs into the bottom on the ICC to convert to the required output. Or you can do what Spyathe did and make the cable yourself. try this, http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/87010-raspberry-pi-car-computer/?hl=spyathe#entry1526125

Bluetooth kit installed - was a clearance item from Repco that looked usable. Takes the output from the factory speakers, passes it through a set of relays - default is pass through and chances this if it detects an audio signal on the Bluetooth side. Seems to be working well also hooked up the factory mute option with it. The way its wired up I could probably hook up a 4 channel amp quite easily if I wanted - 'The Trusty One' does have much in the way of amplification.

Changed the suspension for coil overs - so much better. Didnt go stupidly low either, although did try the fronts at lowest setting just for fun. Would have destroyed the guards as soon as I turned the steering wheel. Overall very happy with the new setup

oh dear...

I've been through the same process, so don't stress that your the only one. My first tune was through a company that dealt primary with Holdens, tune was terrible and I had massive issues with it. Find a tuner who's happy to help, communicate and knows what they're doing. You'll be much happier with the result. And don't just jump straight onto the next tuner that's the second mistake I made, im not sure about tunes in Sydney buy some of the guys on this forum are bound to have suggestions, ie CMS.

Seems to be same drama for the xcal4. mine had to be updated and its kicking up a fuss about it.

eh went back to pro auto to get a few things touched up ( wasn't liking the colder weather) and due to my luck, something wasn't working; the xcal 4 box is too new for my car or something. So more delays. Getting them to fix the leaking Master cylinder while they're at it though. wasn't looking forward to doing that one myself. Looking at getting some coil overs for it now because I want to lower it a tad (should have got for coil overs in the first place really).

Not sure in the end. Held pressure fine. It did work to start with then nothing. Local tuner I bough it from wasn't being too helpful so I moved on and haven't thought about it since

By comparison I've got this, going from hobart to Devonport to get on the spirt, and a bit of Melbourne traffic. Started with a full tank also. edit, suppose I should add mines a manual. ID1000's and new tuner are showing their goodness! Old Bosch 968's couldn't match that as easily.

Happened to me, turned out to be the ICC connector. The locking mechanism failed on mine and it was jumping loose. Cable tie to hold it together and it hasn't done it since.

Im filled with joy! haha. Might go read the codes sometime tomorrow. I assume this might also be the reason I've lost the 'follow me home' lighting? Tied in with all that somehow and in a fault state it just drops it? Seems logical I think. Might be something else entirely though. Good news is 2 consecutive days and nether one of them have I lost steering wheel controls, instrument cluster, heater controls (very useful in Tassie currently) or radio. So I'm pleased still.

Yeah, I figured it would be something to do with that, but not too fussed for now. Will look at it when I can though. Im assuming if theres a fault with the sun sensor wiring it will default to lights on

Seems to be fixed, but time will tell I guess. I need up remove the car side of the ICC plug from the cradle its in and that gave me enough cable to plug it in and get still have access behind it to get a cable tie around the joined plugs. Wont be going anywhere soon! Seems though, the auto headlight setting keeps the lights on regardless. Can just switch the lights manually which I can live with for now

Also, inb4diffbushes Found the problem. ICC plug has had the tabs broken off and thus it isn't locking into place properly and coming loose through vibrations etc. Explaining the random speedo dropout, heater controls not working and a few other things. Not sure how to fix it though :/ will have to figure something out though.

Few months old. Optima Yellow top d34. More than capable that the requirements of the car. Have read that a bad battery is a common cause though.

So im chasing an electrical gremlin that's shown up in my car, and after suspecting a fault wire(s) going from the BEM to the ICC, I was right, testing the resistance between each end showed infinite resistance (I.e. broken cable) replacing these bought my instrument cluster back to life. Success I thought. Turns out not; the speedo (and only the speedo, everything else continues to tick over, rpm, odo, current trip distance etc) will just die at random. So going through the wiring diagrams; I've tested each cable that I think might have an effect and come up with the following; Now that link going from ICC pin 44 to Instrument Cluster B5 is puzzling me. I would expect a broken cable to be infinite resistance, and a good one to be 0 resistance. Is it meant to be like that? Or is it in deed broken? My multimeter was going crazy on for this cable so maybe it is fully cooked but that's what it ended up reading. Any one have any clues or hints they could help me with? Not overly worried about the diagnostics connector resistance readings I have because it still works, xcal unit gets data and happily transfers tunes so I'm guessing that's just residual from the other cable or inaccuracy from multimeter.

Well I got it back today. Made 303 on the first run, then steady 299.5's so hello 300 club? ha. ID1000's and xcal 4 are the only additions to what it had perviously, oh and a new tuner

ECU got sent off today to get re flashed back to stock. Apparently it has the programming for an auto model yet my vin says its a factory manual so not sure whats going on there. And also all the programming is messed up in there and isnt working properly. Apart from that it made some new power numbers that are more impressive than last time but I wont have the car back till thursday at the earliest.

Bluetooth hands free on the pi has been setup. I haven't done it personally but it looks to be a PITA. Once you get your head around terminal and all that its easy

They have ginger bread running on the pi but I think it stopped there? I tried it but it was laggy and very buggy. Light weight linux with the applications you want is going to work better in the long run

https://nerdlyf.wordpress.com This one isn't bad either

Spyathe, I have a pi setup in my car with a touch overlay that has been working. What OS you running on the pi? and is it configured for touch screen inputs?

Replaced the mix of OSA and VDO coil packs to genuine ford ones. Much happier now. And changed the fuel filter also... And booked in for a sct tune!

Well today I spoke to another tuner after having more debacles with the current tune. And turns out he does sct tuning. This is something I would have liked to know over a year ago! Had a short chat to him and he's confident he can provide me with a car with the tune I want. I am stoked about this. $1500 for the xcal4 unit and 3 tunes to suit. Muchly pleased. I've also dealt with this tuner as part of Uni so that's a bonus.

Stock boost actuator back in. No more over boosting and holds 6psi. Still does a weird cut on full acceleration but at least the boost is under control now. And fyi stock boost levels are boring now