MercuryT

I have recently fitted the setup that Simon @ Nizpro recommends. What a difference this has made, great feel and awesome stopping power! They are a 4 pot CSC caliper with a 356mm grooved and vented rotor with alumininium hats. These JUST fit inside the standard 17" rim. Unlike the Harrops as pictured they have 3 bolts at each end of the caliper for reduced flex. I think Simon sells this complete kit for about the $3,250 - $3,500 mark, they come with great pads (Ferodo 2500) and have so far proven to be excellent. I have attached a photo of the setup (Sorry about the brake dust, it has been 2 weeks since I washed my car, Victoria on Stage 2 water restrictions!!)

I have standard Mk 1 rims which will suit a 330mm rotor. AP Racing is owned by Brembo and from the research I have done are a great setup. They are well priced at $3,250 drive in, drive out. The have a large selection of pads available with different compounds. I am thinking maybe I should buy some bigger rims (18 or 19") and then get 356mm rotors. Still trying to make a decision.

I am looking at a set of 4 Spot AP Racing Calipers, Rotors & Hats to suit the front of my T. I am told they will fit with the standard 17" wheels and will dramatically improve my braking performance. I did a track day last Friday @ Sandown and had serious brake fade after only 2 laps. I wondered if anybody has fitted these brake and if so, what are your thoughts? Thanks

I am looking at lowering my car and wanted to know if anyone has some suggestions as to good places to go in Melbourne. I got quoted $1,000 for a Monroe Package, $1,300 for a Pedders Package and $1,700 for a Koni Package. These packages included springs, shocks & fitting. Is that good value or can I do better? Any suggestions?? Thanks

Count me in as well

I am sure most people will agree the first thing you should do is an EDIT with a Custom Tune. It will turn the standard car into a weapon. Expect about 250RWKW with just an EDIT. Keeping in mind the standard car makes about 180 - 190 RWKW, so it is a 30% improvement. EDIT and Custom Tune should cost about $2K finished. That is the beginnning but be warned, once you start it will be very difficult to stop with the mods. Buy the MkII Auto, it is quicker than a manual And it gives you a spare hand to talk on the Mobile!!

Hey Robin, We have tried plug gap, down to as low as .05 and still no good. Simon was wondering if it was a poor earth because it has burnt out a few Coil Packs. But it is not an issue in 3rd so that also puts holes in that theory! I have no idea what to do next! When I first got the EDIT done Dave replaced all the plugs with new OE regapped ones (I think .08) The car seemed OK for a few days but has come back and has been an ongoing issue for a few months now. The only good thing about this issue is that it was giving me problems before I got the EDIT so I know it is not a NizPro problem. Simon wants to build me a new tune slowly and see where it develops the misfire and then they can work back from there. This sounds like the only solution!! Simon told me has never seen anything like this before which was always going to happen with my car!!!

No. I have put the NizPro 98 file back in it as it is a far nicer car even with the misfire. It is 100% better off boost than the standard file and I don't drive it hard but occasionally when I want to give it a squirt it misfires and that really annoys me. It is now out of warranty but Westpoint Ford know about this issue and have told me that they will look after me. I understand that if it doesn't play up at standard that their hands are tied. I am trying to get it to Simon and leave it for a few days but have been busy.

Hey Geea, Traction Control on or off, it doesn't matter. The auto certainly doesn't seem to be slipping. We can get this to happen "on demand" on the dyno. NizPro checked fuel pressure as well and no problems there. I am running out of ideas. When Ford tried to fix it they said that the "numbers" they were getting from the diagnostic tool didn't make any sense and that is why I needed to put it back to standard.

Hi All, As you have read before I have had and continue to have a problem with an engine misfire. Basically what happens is if I load the engine up in 2nd or 4th in manual mode it gets to about 2,750 - 3,000rpm and has this misfire like the traction control is working yet the light is not flashing. The problem only occurs in 2nd and 4th. In 3rd the car is great, no misfire, nothing!! Ford have replaced a burnt out PCM along with a few coil packs. When the problem was still there they told me to put back the standard Ford file and surprise surprise the problem goes away, they are now saying "not our problem". Simon & Dave @ NizPro have been extremely helpful but are at a lose as to what is the cause. I was hoping somebody might be able to shed some light on this issue. My Processor code is one of the lucky ones that doesn't have the "Force Motor Control" for the transmisson in it and I am wondering if it has something to do with the torque limiting of the engine to prevent destruction of my auto. One of the holes in this theory is that 3rd should be worse than 2nd and it is great in 3rd!! Simon & Dave have replaced all 6 coil packs, fitted new regapped Typhoon plugs and still no good. If I leave the car in Auto it seems better because it is able to rev through this band quicker. It still does it in 2nd, like when I turn a corner and apply about 1/2 throttle, not enough to make it kick down to 1st but enough to make it rev beyond 3,000 rpm. Any ideas??

Sport Comp Oil Pressure Here is the link to the Oil Pressure Gauge I used. I bought this from Egauges.com and had it within 5 days. I think it was $50usd plus shipping. Over $100 Aussie dollars here. The size for gauges is 66mm. Sport Comp Boost gauge Above is the link to the boost gauge I used. I love the size of them!! I have the white lights in them and they great at night. I have a mailing service in the US which is basically a mailbox at a UPS store. Some US websites don't let you mail internationally so I just buy what I need and then send it to my mail box and then the boys at the UPS store send it to me in Aus using USPS (United States Postal Service) or UPS. I normally get things within 5 or 6 days. It works a treat!!