bad inferno

Finally on, had the rears on for the last few weeks and the fronts went on today after I got the front end bushes done this week. there's only a few mm clearance on the GT335 front wheels on the spokes closest to the hub

Getting my front bushes replaced next week as I have really bad inside tire wear, So decided I will have to wait another week before the new calipers go onto the front. Dont trust the guys doing the bushes with the new calipers -although Im sounding paranoid now and there not even on !

Did the rear brakes today... Took longer than I thought as I had trouble setting the handbrake. My adjuster on both sides were screwed all the way "in" and had jammed so I had to adjust it a few mm out once I freed it up. ended up taking it out and used some multigrips & pliers. FYI Rear brakes have HEAPs of clearance to the GT335 rim although I have the 9" staggered rears. So want to do the front brakes and before I take it apart was wondering if anybody knows how to tell the left & right brake hose apart. I suppose it will make sense when I take the wheel off and have a look however want to do whatever I can before I start. Any idea on left & right ?. there is obviously no reference to the part No on line. FG Front brake lines for PBR M-Series

I'm now the owner of a set of PBR m-series brakes. The pricing was too good to pass up even though I hear Bosch are no longer manufacturing them they should pair nicely with my obsolete falcon Hope to swap them across in an afternoon and will post some pics.

Do you think lining the air box with Dynamat would help. I could imaging the thin steel walls of the airbox would resonate and amplify the noise.

OK, yes I maybe getting old however want the power benefits of a process west race airbox however concerned about the induction noise. I have the XR8 air box on there now and was just about to purchase the turbo side kit and then stopped and reconsidering the KPM streetfighter air box my exhaust is quite loud so Im not looking for total silence and a turbo whine is OK on acceleration, its a manual gearbox and think I would get sick of the tut tut or woosh sound longer term. XR50T (manual) -Venom Cat, F6 Injectors, -Currently at 295 rwkw Goal 320 kw to add PW stepped Intercooler, intake ??

I can give you the gauge theme if that's what your asking.

Found out how to create my own gauges although its a shame I cannot change colours between night and day. However these now match the dash I can send gauge theme to anyone who wants it... although XR50 logo is part of the background which can easily be removed.

Heres an earlier pic when it was just on a perspex plate, was still OK however better now its tilted toward me and looks alot cleaner. I also mounted the tomtom last year to the top plate. TomTom matches the gloss black/grey perfectly

A few months ago I had a shot at the ODBII gauges using a $90 lenovo tablet and an ebay bluetooth ODBII adapter. Its been really reliable and this weekend finally got around to design and printing a bezel. Prior to this it just sat on a perspex plate. I popped out the tissue holder and fitted this :

Thanks for the tip on getting oil temperature working, here is my installation. a $98.00 tablet velco onto a perspex plate which replaces the tissue box. thanks for those that provided the work on oil temp PID and Calculations....

Never tried one as a car PC however look at an Odroid. More power 1.5ghz quad core plus native android support and still $35 US

how does metal get into fluid reservoir ?

Excited just booked in for an xr8 bonnet on the XR50T (white) next week. I thought I would get the bonnet myself however the panel shop can supply it cheaper than an online price so Im happy. My only problem is bringing the old bonnet home..... for the 100 bucks I'd get for it on ebay probably easier just leaving it there. The panel shop talked about a high-fill so if I get stone chips it should not go straight to the black undercoat and assured me of a good job underneath the bonnet as well, time will tell. Although they showed me a staff FG which looked good.

I have the 2010 XR50T in winter white..... I have done nothing special and do have a small amount of surface rust on the rail, directly under the brake booster. I bet it would just wipe off ! Maybe one day I'll put some "preventative" on the rails however its soo little it has not been worth it. there is no other visible signs..... Although I am obviously biased the FG does look great in white.

I now have a choice, genuine ford FPV rims 8"F / 9"R or aftermarket copy at 8"F / 9.5"R. The copies are also $700 cheaper (which I know is not a lot ) I currently run the XR50T 19x8 245/35/19. I was wondering if I went the 9.5" rear could I go a 275 or 285/35/19 and 245/40/19 as I would like to get a little more comfort than the 35's are providing at the moment.

I've lost the paint off the booster, (FG XR50T) twisted master cylinder gasket caused brake fluid to leak over time. Not sure if I should simply replace with a good 2nd hand unit or try and repainted. Is the booster easy to replace, how long do you think, I would do it myself.... Painting although confident may not look 100% orig and would probably have to remove anyway and wait 24 hrs before refitting. Thanks

So for those of us without >4k to spend on a forged set of rims, whats the verdict ? -street wheel with an occasional track day ? I have been looking out for a set of genuine GT335 rims which there are a few about recently however I do like the idea of a staggard setup. Ford one are simply cast as well I assume so need to compare this china build quality to genuine ?

I saw a similar wheel on a car at the airport last month. Although not an avant G wheel I did not get that wow factor. Was also told a Matt finish on a wheel is harder to keep clean. it's hard to top the 19" gunmetal XR50 wheels although wanting that concave look. I've just seen the staggard 8.5 / 9.5. GT 335 copy wheel on ebay. So still considering,

No way would I want to go any lower, Kings SSL all round. This is taken at Phillip Island so well in flight coming through Lucky Heights

A day at Phillip Island

When I had my alignment after lowering they told me they cannot do anything with the camber so I paid 160.00 for a toe only job on 4 wheels. However after calling around yesterday went in to see another tyre chain who wanted me to come in so they could take a look. To my surprise when they looked under the bonnet they said they could take alot of the camber out with shims, I pressed them on a camber kit however he was confident there was enough to just shim $70.00 + $110 for alignment... alot better than the 450 or 640 prices I got from two stores for a front only camber kit.

thanks for the feedback, a little bit of knowledge on where I am at now goes a long way in trying to make commitments on what to do/spend.

Hi, Looked at my front tyres yesterday and they have taken the inside corner/edge off really bad. Its like a 45 degree angle (probably 2cm) have worn down I would say nearly to the belts. There is more wear on the side wall than the tread ! The rears have worn very evenly. I had SSL fitted and the "toe" only alignment done. However when I look at the camber front and rear its kind of the same so assume the camber is not really causing this servere edge only wear. The front camber is also not even,a s you will see below, however both fronts suffer the same problem Before I go into Pedders or a tyre store can someone enlighten me on the probbaly cause based upon the attached alignment sheet which was done when the car was lowered. 2010 FG XR50T, thanks

Before I go ahead are there any negative impacts on running a larger rear 9.5" FG sedan.... I currently have the XR50T with the ford grey 245/35/19 which I assume runs a 8.5" rim as standard...I am seriously considering the Avant Garde grey M550 in a 19" rim - 8.5 front / 9.5 rears as I want to keep the same grey factory look. Real drive is to get a rim to fit some later brembos, although after looking at these rims I think they should look great on a winterwhite XR50.