frankieh

Hi Folks, Does anyone have a premium 98 tuned base timing table for a BA XR6T? I'm just looking at setting up a reasonable tune until I can swap the clutch as my xtreme 1400kg clutch slips when I plant it. I have a new Mantic 9000 here but I'm not going to be able to put that in for a while. I don't want to copy someone elses tables verbatim, I just want to get an idea of what advance people are running at what boost levels so I can setup a baseline. (the base tune for the haltech seem to be just enough to get it running and no more and is super rich and retarted (timing I mean)) cheers Frank

Hi folks, I decided to spend a bit of money fixing my old girl up so I bought a Haltech Elite plug and play PCM and a mantic 9000 clutch for the BA... Got the new ECU in and it's fine but needs fine tuning.. I run liquid injected gas but first I have to get the petrol setup right. I have a question for any tuners out there. I have 42lb 440cc green top injectors... Ford Part # M-9593-F302 Bosch Part # XL3V-A9A and 280150558. The XR6T has a 4bar fuel regulator the injectors, 440cc must be at 3bar as they are rated at 466cc at 3.5 bar or I calculate 498cc at 4bar... I'm assuming this is what I should have entered under flow in the haltech injector settings? (498cc I mean). The listed injector specs I have are: Flow rate: 466cm³/min @ 3.5 bar Minimum injection time: 0.468ms ip_ti_add_dly__vb @ 3.5 bar V ms 0.0 5.216 6.0 5.216 8.0 2.208 10.0 1.376 12.0 0.960 14.0 0.704 16.0 0.480 25.0 0.480 dead times? Do I need to translate these settings to 4bar too? Is there a tool to do this or do I just use the 3 and 3.5 bar settings I have and graph it to 4 bar? (Most of my past tuning has been with carbies so some of this is new to me.) any pointers would be greatly appreciated. regards Frank

Hi all, Recently I've customised my ICC to jam a 9 inch 4GB ram Joying android unit in it. (I didn't know about the prefab versions before this) Anyway, the difference between my one and the overline etc ones is that I customised the factory facia and kept both the stacker and the climate control buttons. (It's hell dusty from sitting on the shelf for a month while I collected info... but it's painted in ford gun metal grey metalic and half a dozen coats of clear. looks great. Anyawy, I want to put RCA's on the factory stacker and make it an input on the android unit.. Now looking at the amp board in the factory ICC I see the inputs are labelled with the FL/FR/RL/RR, so adding RCA's seems like a pretty straight forward thing but figured I'd ask here first. Also, does anyone have the Overline or any other unit that has control of the HVAC? mine has the same software as the overline for climate control but I don't have an interface module and I don't know what one I need.. does anyone know about those ?

Hi all, The problem was a dodgy sparkplug.. looked perfect from the outside but the combination of the 80k volt coils and the voltage booster must have burned though internal insulation.. put a new set of plugs in and it smoothed right out. thanks for all the suggestions.

Well I had perfect genuine plugs and coils and if I only run petrol I'd have been fine... But with the JTG LPG injection I can run 16PSI with advanced timing giving me 520ish HP at the back wheels. The problem I had with the LPG is that I either had a rough idle. (small gap and LPG) or a good idle, (standard gap) and spark blow out after about 12PSI. So I bought the WeaponX coils and they did not help at all.. as it turned out they didn't help at all because they use loads more current and voltage than the coil rail can provide. Hence the voltage booster.. With 14ish volts to the weaponX coils, I could run a 1.1 gap for a perfect idle on LPG and still not blow out spark at 16psi. Plus the car actually felt super smooth in a way I've never seen in another falcon before.. at least it did until my recent issues. I don't really think it's the plugs or the coils to be honest.. my reason for that is because it isn't one cylinder that goes when it's spluttering as is usually the case with a dud coil.. the engine loses all power so for whatever reason it seems like the PCM is doing this.. I wish PCM's had a syslog of events I could look at. Losing the weaponX's would cause problems because the dwell is calibrated for them in the tune.

Hi, I've changed coils before too.. but then I spent 560 buying what are supposed to be the worlds best coils.. used in massive boost applications. and then I put a voltage booster on them so they get a minimum of 14volts all the time. When I put all that in, it was the first time I had a great idle and no spark blowout on boost. but I will try swapping in some known good ones if it's still an issue after I change the plugs I guess.

OK, I got a code that seemed to indicate the TPS might be at fault. Swapped it for a good one off a BF 3 wagon... code went away but didn't solve this problem. The SS inductions throttle body is spotless and has been there for yonks so I don't think that has anything to do with it. I noticed something odd though.. if the engine is spluttering down low and I put my foot in.. it splutters badly all the way up the rev range.. If I allow it to smooth out and then put my foot in.. it revs smoothly.. that's the other thing that made me suspect the TPS, but as I said.. changing it didn't help I also swapped the crank angle sensor with the one from the BF3 Wagon. That didn't help either. Also took the big engine block plug apart and used contact cleaner and WD40 on that as I've seen weird idling from that in the past in other Falcons.. didn't help either. I ordered a new set of plugs but only 5 arrived so I'm waiting for the 6th. While I had the plugs out I put a meter on the coil rail and it was 14.4 so the JMM voltage booster is working fine and I presently don't think a 500 buck set of 80k volt weaponX coils are to blame as they are only a year or so old and were working fine. I wondered of my overpowered ignition could have damaged the plugs insulation internally but that doesn't really fit the symptoms. running out of ideas here. anyone got any other suggestions? I'm starting to wonder if my PCM has a dry solder joint...

I don't know if it is relevant because it's had both for a year before this problem started.. but it has a big bore SS inductions throttle body and underdrive setup. Puffwagon, I might swap the knock sensor as I have a couple of spare motors here.. check the loom and change it and if it doesn't help I'll try logging it if I can find the relevant PID. JetTurbo.. I hadn't considered that I think I'll swap that for one of the spares too. It might also be worth disconnecting the big engine loom plug and spraying in some contact cleaner in case a dodgy connection is causing a signal drop out.

Hello Mr Puff.. I have a wideband O2 with digital readout in my drivers side piller.. Stoich is 15.5 on LPG from memory the AFR is usually from 12 to 16 on mine.. I also checked the plugs carefully for cracks and the boots on the coils. (plus the ceramic necks of the plugs are liberally coated with dialetric grease. ) Honestly, the spark is crazy powerful with 14.6 volts feeding 80k volt coils.. I drove around for 2 years with 1.2m gaps getting 16psi with no blowout easily. Since it happened after flushing the cooling I'm still inclined to think I caused the issue there somehow. regards Frank

Hello folks, I have a BA XR6T, 6spd manual, JTG, liquid LPG injection and I'm having an odd issue with what seems like spark blowout at high boost (and just off idle it seems) the tune has a max of 16psi boost and advanced timing (the JTG system is why this is possible) but it was working perfectly for a couple of years before last month. Good idle and no spark blow out at high boost.... until recently that is. First thing is that it almost certainly isn't spark blowout as I spent more than 1000 making sure it couldn't be. The engine has series 2 WeaponX 80,000 volt coils that are powered by a JMM voltage booster that ups the input power to the coils to 14.6 volts even without the engine running. The problem stemmed from back when my radiator died and I put a new one and flushed the system. To do that I basically removed the engine side of the top radiator hose and left the car running with a hose jammed in at the other end.. I did this till the output water was nice and clean then I drained the lot and replaced with coolant. Because there was a ton of water running down the side of the block under the thermostat housing and it never ran properly after that. I pulled the plugs and they are nice grey/brown with no wear. (1.2mm gap which I lowered down to 1mm just in case but to no effect) I also measured the input voltage to the coils and it is still correctly at 14.6v. So it doesn't appear to be the spark system as it's fully functional in the same manner as it was before I had this issue. Anyway, under the thermostat housing is the knock sensor and I'm wondering if the tipping of a hundred litres of water over it has caused it to have an incorrect resistance when reporting knocking to the PCM and the PCM is causing the issue because of this. There are no codes reported in the system that relate to this. I also reset KAM data to no effect. It also does it on both gas and LPG.. it seems a little more quickly on gas though. Does anyone have any experience with these systems that isn't related to overboost or spark blowout? (it's a custom tune with 16psi max but this happens around 5psi ) nothing else on the engine has been changed anywhere near the time this happened. I thought that if nobody else had any suggestions I'll change the knock sensor and check all the connectors but I'd be interested in any other thoughts.. I spent lots of money making this car fun and it's not fun at the moment. :-) regards Frank

Ok, it was at least partially the cap.. put the original back on and it's bot p1ssing coolant out the overflow anymore.. gauge is lower too.. sitting between quarter and half now.. but it's still hotter than it was 2 weeks ago and it even smells hotter too after a moderate drive... I've just ordered a physical digital temp gauge and sender so I'll have a much better idea of temp going forwards. Engine still has that hot engine smell though... wish I knew why it suddenly started running hotter.

I guess I'm mostly wondering why the recent change.. other than replacing the plastic pipe I've changed nothing. It's definately coming from the overflow as the puddle is directly under the outlet and all "car" between the overflow and the ground is coated in green coolant. There doesn't appear to be any other leakage. I made a point of checking at work where I park it and sure enough the only place with a puddle of coolant is the front drivers corner right under the overflow hose. I suppose it's possible that the radiator cap has lost pressure or seal and it's allowing it out under lower pressure, I have a spare here so I can try it.

Firstly, I already posted this to fordmods but they don't seem to have the traffic they used to anymore so figured I'd come to a site more specialized to xr6T.  This post has much more info too.   I've got a strange situation with my XR6T getting hot. The temp gauge now gets to half way.. that doesn't sound hot but this car has always sat at 1/4 and it is not because if you stop driving suddenly you can hear it bubbling coolant out the overflow. If I let the car idle for a while after stopping the temperature drops a bit, but not all the way back to where it used to sit. considering the huge radiator and stuff in this car I'm puzzled as to why it would be running hot at all. There is a gauge in the lid of the overflow and that shows that the coolant is somewhere around the 100C point.. and it's never been anywhere near that point before.  The AFR output shows nothing out of the ordinary either.  For a long time it sat at 1/4 mark no mater how thrashed or how hot it was.    The only thing that happened that might be related is that in an effort  to improve my idling issues, I took the top half off the intake manifold and pulled off the plastic press fitting under it with a tapped brass  part that can't leak.  I used hylomar and tested for leaks and "start you barstid" has no effect on revs when sprayed around the intake.    I've checked the codes and there isn't anything unusual in there either. Car is a very late 04 BA, 6spd manual, tuned for around 16psi on JTG liquid gas injection.  except for dropping revs too much when clutching in to stop it was running pretty well except a bit rich till recently.    Heat is there on either fuel though. The car has: * newly replaced thermo fans. (did that trying to solve this problem.) cost was 20 bucks so WTH. * 4 core radiator, only about 6 months old.. it's twice the thickness of the standard V8/turbo radiator. (which is twice the thickness of the standard radiator) so it only just fits in front of the engine with the fans on the front. * Silicon hoses all round.. they came with the radiator. Seem pretty good as they don't get soft with heat the way the rubber ones do. There are no springs in them to hold them open and it doesn't' seem all that hard to collapse them so I"m wondering if I should source a spring for the bottom hose. * New thermostat... did it yesterday. the old one looks fine but figured what they hell. * No leaks and coolant is clean and green. The water pump isn't leaking and doesn't' seem to have any slop or movement. If I put the heater on full when the car is hot it's so hot it burns your feet so there is definitely a problem of some sort. Thoughts, I am concerned that the temp sensor on the block might be naffed and causing issues by not regulating the fans properly... at around the same time my external oil temp guage started reading 120 all the time which means either the sender has died or gotten disconnected or I have serious engine issues. what else can I look at here that I have not already checked out? It's pushing two litres of coolant out the overflow every time I go for a decent length drive so it's driving me nuts. I'd appreciate any suggestions. cheers Frank

Thankyou sir.. it was done originally via encrypted BEB and Binary Editor. but I've got the actual bin file off it now. I think I might know at least partially what the problem is.. I discovered the Boost varied LPG regulator had come loose and was dumping too much LPG in. So the PCM was trying to account for that by leaning it out.. and that made it a pig when it was on Petrol. I found an installation manual for the Icom JTG system that talks you though how to set it and tomorrow I'm going to try to buy a gas pressure guage and match it up as best I can. That explains why it always runs better just after the KAM data is cleared... With any luck I will have a schema I can use soon and I'll be able to fine tune it myself. Think I'm going to swap it to LPG only too.. no warm up on petrol and then swap. All that does is confuse the PCM. The JTG fitter I spoke to said that starting on Petrol is a silly tradition from older LPG systems.. (the JTG has an in tank pump and return line, it's very similiar to a Petrol setup.) Apparently no need to run Petrol at all unless I get stuck somewhere with no LPG. Should make tuning it easier too.

Hello folks, I posted this to ford forums but didn't get much response so I figured I'd try here as many of you probably have similiar setups. I have a BA XR6T that used to have a BTR auto that I killed with 12+ PSI and liquid LPG injection. I fixed that by putting a BF turbo T56 and extreme clutch with lightened flywheel and a manual tune. It goes great however there is one small issue. When I put the clutch in to stop at the lights, the revs drop way too far.. down to 400 before slowly climbing back up to 700 or so. Occasionally it will stall. When I put the pedal box in I didn't get around to putting a clutch switch on.. I was wondering if the switch does anything other than the cruise control. I mean to say does it do anything to tell the PCM that the car has the clutch in any reason other than cruise control? Also I read somewhere that the PCM needs to know that the T56 is in gear or in neutral.. when I put the box in, I wired up the reverse lights and connected up the wires where the neutral safety switch so it would turn over... didn't hook anything up that would tell it I was in gear or not though. The question is.. should I have? I know that having a lighter flywheel will make it drop revs faster but it shouldn't be like this surely. Auto boxes usually hold revs so I know this is adjustable in the tune, but where? is there a name for it in tuning schemes? Holding revs after instant disengagement? I'd really like to adjust this thing to hold revs briefly before dropping down slowly to 750 or thereabouts... Of course it's possible that I naffed up setting up the pedal box and should have hooked up the clutch sensor and/or a neural switch to the PCM so it would do this itself. The manual tune on the PCM now is based on HAANFG4. I should add a couple of things, the revs dropoff happens in both Petrol and LPG, and the ignition system in my car includes Brisk racing silver plugs, recent version WeaponX 80k coils (dwell turned to match) and a Herrod JMS voltage booster so I can run big gaps for a good idle and still have no spark blowout up high. Any thoughts would be very much appreciated. cheers Frank