Headsex

Mummy, I want a turbo like that for my birthday

I hear and see everything

Did you say that with gloomy sounds in the back ground in a dark lit room ?

real good she recieves plenty of punishment

why is my name not on the list?

As I've been mentioned, yes I can help.. BUT, if you want customer service, a "correctly done" tune, WITH WARENTEE on engine and turbo. Go see Simon or Dave @ nizpro I wouldnt dare take my car anywhere else after seeing the quality of tunes "other" tuners are putting out..

Its very common for the c3 clutch to wear quick, even in built boxes, as its very hard getting the oil presure down the shaft to the clutch. Its suspected that the oil seals around the shaft are also fairly ordinary in the BA boxes. When I broke my planterys, the c3 clutches were also burnt, although I felt no slipping in these gears, just an ordinary 2nd to 3rd shift, regardless on how much presure/ramp I gave it. I have pictures in my broken auto post.. Personally, envy-t has that preston box you talk about.. and unless you can deal with the squaking of the clutches during shifting(which apparently is "normal"), I would just recommend replacing the C3 clutches.. maybe even slip in a AU v8 plantery set.. Mine was done for well under $1500, including my convertor modified.

Expensive method of doing so... If only someone made up a circuit to convert the cas signal to a useable rpm signal for the eboost.. Then it would be worth while.. never the less. I like using my PI controller Pfft why have 2 boost levels.. Dont want high boost, dont floor it d.

Why get a eboost? without the ability to hook up a RPM source to the eboost, its just a overpriced bleed valve with flashing lights I find I can control boost to a pin point using the PCM's built in PI Controller. The only advantage of the e-boost is having the ability to change the boost on the fly. Simple method would be to have your high level boost mapped out via the PI controller, and then if you want a "low boost" option at the flick of a switch, have a lpg gas type solenoid(hooked upto a incabin switch), which bypasses the factories boost solenoid supplying boost directly to the actuator, without being bleed off (so you will have 12psi essentually if you have a 12psi actuator)..

Yes, I got a aftermarket flapper valve to replace the original.. You saw my pictures yeah? Its approx 4-5mm bigger in diameter than the standard xr6turbo flapper. In my original porting, I left like 3-4mm of seat / sealing area left.. so really I only opened the port up by about 2-3mm diamter total... Not enough as I later found out.. Since I removed the turbo for my second attempt, I noticed the housing already had a hairline crack at the rear side of the port, so I figure, heck, if it cracks with that much seat, its gonna crack regardless.. So I went savage I now have only approx 1-2mm of seating area left, and the flapper covers it all.. Just a word of caution when taking out material from under where the arm is, dont go too far, or else the flap will get jammed and not shut, you could almost set the port up to a "D" shape rather than a "O" shape. But I think the best benefit on what needs to be done is contouring the port towards the turbo flange (where it bolts to the engine exhaust pipe), This will encourage gas flow to go into the wastegate much like how air causes a aeroplane wing to lift.

Your comment is rather quite contradicting.. You say it will only use half the intercooler because of "least resistance".. Personally in my experiance with airflow dynamics, "least resistance" with each core across the intercooler being equal and all causing the same amount of "resistance" would cause the air presure on the end tank to equalise and flow through the entire intercooler.. You make it sound as though, simple terms, the cores at the bottom of the intercooler are bigger and of less resistance than the cores at the top of the intercooler, which would make your comment true. but this is not the case. Compare the end tank design to the APS one, which the in / exit points are straighter than this plasmanman one, and through simple tempreture testing, it is able to prove the entire intercooler is being used, top and bottom. He said he done this. but it would almost seem he done the original mistake I did, and did not get "savage" enough with the porting. Although in saying that, the porting of the wastegate is to give boost control when power increases, in cases where its unable to bypass the additional exhaust gases due to the increased power through the wastegate port with a combination of the freeflowing exhaust and freeflowing intake. Another trick I have found (targeted at o2stock), is to run more ignition timing higher in the rpm where it starts overboosting (where your duty is 0), provided it doesnt knock/ping, as running slightly retarted in ignition timing, even by as little as 2degree's, creates more exhaust gases (where the energy is not harnessed into power) and adds to your overboosting problem. I agree here.. get savage with the wastegate porting, rather than being conservative like I originally did.. Only go external wastegate when you go bigger turbo and extractors as a combo.. Danny.

Sure will.. But unless upsizing to a larger turbo, why outlay the cost of one, and associated modifcations to the exhaust manifold and dump pipe to fit one.. Re-porting the original wastegate port as big as you possible can, as free cost wise, just some more labour ... d.

Nice work To give you a bit of idea.. When I removed my wog cooler, and switched to the nizpro cooler / plenum setup, I could NOT get any less than 17psi boost with 0 duty, and that was after I modified my wastegate the first time.. To control the boost, I had to put a cat back into the exhaust.. Then boost was setup to 15psi, with approx 70% duty at 5000rpm (12psi actuator) After I removed my turbo the second time, re-ported it MORE, and contoured the port towards the flange of the turbo, opened it right up, really only leaving about 1-2mm of seat left, then put it on the car.. I put it all back together, and I found it peaked LESS boost than before. I had to re-tune it to give it MORE duty cycle than before to bring it back to 15psi.. Then I removed the cat, and crossed my fingers (please no more 17psi with 0 duty).. And presto, it spiked to 17psi as it come on boost, and the beauty of using closed loop boost control, it stablised back to 15psi boost.. I then retuned it by lowering the duty cycle all over, especially at approx 3500rpm where boost comes on so it doesnt spike past 15psi Beautiful.. Perfect 15psi boost control EDIT: how much was it opened.. Like my original mistake? or right up leaving 1 to 2mm seat? with conturerd towards the flange... I have no regrets on how big I ported mine.. considering I already saw heat cracks with 3-4mm worth of seat, I though, its just gonna crack anyways at standard size.. Danny

ahh fair enough.. I only seen that pic..

looks like its rolling on 19's or 20's.. and appears to have sunroof picture stolen from here

[quote name='SCRIBR' post='548412' date='Jun 25 2007, 10:13 PM']danny the pdf u sent me was blank.. it was 0.01mb =\ can you send it again thanks! p.s they r going in tomorrow [/quote] hotmail sucks :P

Firstly, no tuner commands duty cycle of the injectors. The pcm commands how many ms to squirt in based on injector scales, commanded lambda(afr), and speed density tables. The pcm will not open the injectors past approx 80% duty cycle, as a built in protection. The main reason I see why anywhere from 240 to 270rwkw is depends on how lean u wanna push the afrs I believe this also is highly dependant ona little spring in the fuel pump, which is part of the presure releaf valve, if u push the boost too hard as the fuel preasure also rises it can unseat this valve and release fuel presure. On my car, with 9.5psi boost top end, afr was rising from my commanded 12.2 upto 12.6afr at approx 5000rpm onwards, it was making 244rwkw at that point. I personally won't leave the 12's afr. I have seen others push them harder. Not for me sorry. I have also whitnessed another car being tuned on the same dyno which has a little more boost, and made 265rwkw(also an auto) with the same afr's as what mine showed, however with another 20rwkw... Maybe my std fuel pump had a lazy relief valve spring bleeding off fuel preasure instead ofgiving it to the fuel injectors.. This brings another point about the walbro choice of pump. Nearly everyone here has a gss341 or gss342. Very bad. These pumps are rated 255l/h sure, but at 3 bar fuel preasure... remembering that our cars run 4 bar fuel preasure at idle, its already higher than what the pumps rated for, yet alone when u have 15psi boost, bringing the fuel preasure upto 5 bar.... its obvious the relief valves in these pumps are sufficent to a certain degree, but this is why people claim only like 330rwkw out of them. The boost required to make this power is probably unseating the preasure relief at that point. The gss294 pump on the other hand is rated at 190l/h however its rated at 5 bar.. Ask yourself this, are u going to empty your tank in 20 minutes if u have 350rwkw.. Don't think so. But at the end of the day, when the injectors reach 80% duty, its just a matter of how much boost will push the afr's into the 13's.. And remember, a car tuned with 13.2afr during the day will boost higher at night and push afr's even leaner..

Hi Guys, I have emailed everyone's invoices Let me know if there's any problems.. [color="#FF0000"]Waldo185 BA_XR6Turbo_Ute[/color] I need both your email address's Check your hotmail junk folder if you dont believe you got it Thanks Danny

I'm assuming he has the siemens Deka's from my group buy.. But by the sounds of it.. the power / afr's indicate the std injectors? Assuming it will be driven, and injectors and custom tuned will be the next thing?

His car is 100% stock. Never been flashed!!!

[quote name='ALF05T' post='544411' date='Jun 15 2007, 01:06 PM']I know I'm a bit late but can you do me these injectors for the same price?[/quote] No. That price was only available due to the quantity ordered. I can get them anytime at 450 plus postage provided they have stock.. Danny

Keep in mind jimbobs car was completely stock minus the valve springs ..

I can say 99% chance u get the ba motor.. They are cructial to not mixing part numbers between different series.. Unless the replacement part number for both engines are the same part number... which wheni checked was not the case..

If its oil pump drive, they will change the engine... bye bye nizpro valve springs...

Can these people please PM me their email address' so i can do the invoices in one batch and send them out [color="#FF0000"]5.XRT06 10.BA_XR6Turbo_Ute 12.syco6 16.fprwpn 18.waldo185 20.The Nut 21.GreenXR6T[/color]