Headsex

Hahaha.. I only setup boost and log the duty on the street, as at times depending on the ramp rate, the boost will be different on the dyno vs the road. Fuel I setup on the dyno (smooth it out), and I add the last few degree's of timing on the dyno where one can hear it detonate..

you can upgrade the firmware youself using the nokia software.. Do it before you customise it (cos its essentially formats your phone back to factory defaults)

when you get the n95, upgrade the firmware immediately to version 12.. Version 10, and 11 suck ARSE!!! Especially the phone used to hang whilst playing mp3's and after you hung up after a incoming call, the phone "white screened" (same as when you turn the phone on).. Seems to be resolved in v12 of the firmware.. Ohh, still need to get my speaker changed (not loudspeaker, the one you use to talk), It crackles.. mums n73 also did it.. Maybe a batch of their speakers are crap... At least the "Stereo" loud speakers are good and strong

Ummm how?

No, see above, I will not tune blindly without a datalogger to map things like boost out. I am planning a trip to qld to sort some tunes out.. Talk to o2 stock.

Generially the best changes are kept simple, lean the fuel table out to the likes of 12.4afr, alter the spark to give more timing and add more shift preasure and adjust the transmissions ramp rates. And obviously push boost up Yes you can, but that introduces new problems, it will try to idle at that afr, and also it only has a narrow band o2 sensor, so there will be no closed loop adjustment You can however alter the fuuel table to command 1.2 lambda (17.5afr) around 1500 to 2000 rpm but I have noticed very little gain there, yet alone the fact ford didn't put lean cruse in because it pushes emissions up. Start simple small changes and make sure you have a dataloggwer so you can see what the pcm is doing. Last thing you want to do is command 20 degrees timing and have the knock sensors pulling out 8 degrees all the time because your not bright enough to adjust the sensitivity or disable the knock sensors. Oh and this is why their tunes sometimes ping or ping all the time. I've datalogged some crazy sh*t. most of my success is becauae I've studied the datalogs to see if my changes made a difference.

where do I sign? it looks tough on that rapid one

downshifting it is not a good thing.. Just leave it in Drive , When in perf or manual shifting, the over-ride clutch is engaged (engine braking), and gearchanging becomes very rough up or down.. Leave it in drive and let th One way clutch do all the work

slipping is caused by not enough line presure.. Sure we can beef up the ramp rate.. But who actually changes the line presure.... If you alter the tranny shifting the capa taugh way, its obvious why people are loosing bands and clutches Also, the 2nd to 3rd shift is hard to get hard as the oil seals around the shaft are crap, they leak and result in a poor shift 3rd gear needs all the ramp and presure it can get...

I WANNA KNOW WHAT LOVE IS I WANNA FEEL WHAT LOVE IS.. LOL!! poor jimmy

So Nathan.. Got a picture of the sticker on the car yet?

Yes But.. Because I dont own a dyno / Workshop.. Alot of people dont take me seriously.. Either way, I've got support from one of the most reputable workshops in australia, And the feedback they have given some of the cars I've tuned is very complimenting

Dont goto HPF, I can get injectors, supply fit and tune for you.. Autotechnique specialise in Holdens, and is the home of VCM Suite/HPTuners, I use marios dyno as its closest to home, and mario needs my help with the ford stuff (as their software is 2 weeks away ) No, I dont have a workshop. I work full time at a Aerospace company .. I am doing this part time as I enjoy it, And I'm sick of seeing people get ripped off, and the run around by Workshops (YPURV4's situation is really what pushed me over the edge). But.. Watch this space.. that's all I'm going to say for now.. Things might be changing for the better. I try to lay low.. I already got a number of cars queued up.. Trough Lolly's story is just one.. There's another 2 in the build which are nearly there.. FastR1Red, and Cole Trickles.. (2 weeks ) I think the best thing I've heard about one of my tunes is quoted as this.. "Danny tunes it just as Ford would have released a 300rwkw car".. Ie, Driveability, reliabilty.. None of this nothing down low, and all power uptop. But Its true. I dont chase numbers.. I chase good power through-out the rev range. IE, dont come to me with 260rwkw on std injectors and ask me to tune it.. You'll nicely be told I'm not interested, as im not interested in matching that power level on std injectors. I think mike fell off his seat when he saw my conservative street tune originally only had 10rwkw more than the HPF tune he recieved.. Driveability between my street tune and the HPF one is massive Yes. Will be good..

maybe... I've got a rain out pass from last friday... I guess depends if I CBF or not

Remembering how fat your AFR's were, And attending the Nizpro dyno demonstration day PROOVED that running AFR as rich as yours is looses power/torque.. Go back to him and get him to retune it closer to .85 Lambda (12.44afr).. You will pick up a massive amount of torque

As long as you wear a skirt ....

Swift's dyno has always had that ghost in the system.. As peter said, last time it happened was when I used it last many months ago.. At least Alan murphy is getting out there and replacing the control box on the dyno now. 2 weeks! As for that dip. I've only seen it on manual cars.. And, in a few weeks time when I get Theo's car on the dyno, I'll let ya know if what I'm thinking has fixed it. either way, Fatz saw you do this at 90km/h Danny.

Nice Avi Fatz

:ooops: Modifying these cars is actually very simple, You just need to spend your money in the right way.. Danny

Without giving too much hints away, here is the wastegate we done on sunday for Cole Tricles car. And the bigger flapper mounted as well.

Because my original port was not good enough, I decided that a $60 odd swing valve was good value to "just to be sure" Anyways, I've sent ya a pm about ya cat. Danny Inside porting to encourage flow from flange helps plenty, I believe the original flap fell in the new port now. Will post pics when I get home

With my cat in place, boost was controlable with just porting (I did have bigger valve but the original port hole size was prob coverable by the original flap) Without the cat, forget it What induction setup you got? I'm also assuming u have a bf based on the power levels

What boost you running, I dare say at tht power level its going to be over 15psi. Simple test to prove my theory, hook your actuator directly to the vac feed on the turbo bypassing the solenoid. Measure your boost during the day and see what it peaks too. Do it again at night at like 11pm onwards, and then see what it boosts to. In anycase, as I said before, you can tune higher than the point it overboosts too, but you cannot boost lower. O2stock for example could not get lower than 17psi, ie, he made 390 or so rwkw, but he wanted lower than that, so he could have a lower power tune. He can now control it to 13psi since he ported his wastegate

Yes, cracking up the boost ona restrictive intake or exhaust limits the amount of spark advance you can deliver. As a result, power. You can make more power with less boost with bf based engines due to the change of the cams away from the ba's taxi profile

Was it 24lb @ 3500rpm, or 24lb at 6000rpm, Needless to say this is comment is irrelavent to the standard xr6 turbo that ford fitted, as yours is a upsided turbo, and custom exhaust fitted with a external gate. The main difference being your boost to exhaust backpresure ratio is lower than the standard one. This comment isnt really comparing apples with apples. A stronger spring will not reduce boost creep alone. The main points in changing the actuator is It increases minimum commandable boost, giving you more commandable boost higher in the RPM and BETTER boost control. Eliminating boost creep totally is done best electronically, Ie, requesting duty cycle of 1 (closed, so wastegate doesnt open as boost is building), forcing all exhaust gas to go into the turbine. (I have seen "bleed valves" which are spring rated eliminating creep, just not as well as it can be done electronically) I use and recommend 12psi actuators. They give better accuracy when controlled electronically.. especially when Tuning using the PI Controler rather than straight Duty Cycle control. ie going from duty .5 to .55 is a small boost change with a 12psi , than what it is with a std, or 9psi actuator. Correct, If you disconnect electronic boost control, and still have a vac/boost refrence, the car will run 10lb boost. But if you remove the bac/boost refrence to the actuator, you will find you will have more than 10lb boost. I believe ForcedXR6 saw his boost guage needle bouncing past 20psi when his line came off his actuator. Jerky experiance? When I had my Boost refrence line bypassing the boost solenoid, and connected directly to the actuator, I had a very smooth drive, although there was alot of boost creep as boost was building. Ive also fitted a 11.8psi(12psi) actuator and tuned the car to 12psi no problem. Whilst eliminating boost creep whilst the PI controller was hanging onto duty cycle 1 as long as it could. Being computer controlled it has wonderful thing build into the PI Controller called "Fuzzy logic". Another secnario where this is used is in a elevator, As its approaching a desired floor, it slows the travel speed down to give a comforting stop, rather than coming to that desired floor and locking the brakes on. Similar thing happens when boost is approching Desired Boost. The problem with the std actuator is it is rated at like 3-4psi. Early in the RPM, you can make it spike to the likes of 15psi at 4000rpm no problem. but they trail down to anywhere between 8psi, and 12psi @ 5500rpm even when commanding duty cycle of 1. The only ones that hold are the ones with good intakes, and good exhausts (usually no cat) I somewhat disagree that the wastegate port is "power related" on when you should upgrade them. A few examples. a car that came to me.. Had a aftermarket intercooler, a punched cat, and a Tune. With a duty cycle of 0, it was not possible to command any less than 12psi boost. Sure, with Injectors, its possible to push a car like that upto 15psi no problem to hide the fact it was overboosting. Was the Problem fixed? No, its still there. Was the boost nicely controlled? No. It varied during the day to a lower boost amount, and at night to a higher boost level. Obviously this car needs its wastegate ported, and actuator recommended Another car that came to me. Had Process west intercooler, Injectors, 12psi actuator, valve springs, tune, punched cat. was showing 17psi boost on the datalogger. The funny thing about this car inparticular was, during the day (ie, when a tuner shop would normally tune it), it was boosting to a nice 15.5psi nice and controlled, but later said it was pinging at night. When we datalogged it at night, when the air was colder and more dense, commanding a duty cycle of 0.1 still did not allow the boost to be brought down past 17psi... A overboost situation obviously. This car also needs its wastegate ported (although its believed it has it done, although I suspect if it has, not enough) When I fitted my nizpro gear plenum, cooler etc, My car at night would not go any lower than 17psi. I put a car back into my car, and it was somewhat controlled again. Since then I have redone my wastegate port (yes first time was not big enough) and now I can command anywhere from 12psi to 17psi+ without a CAT without overboosting So as a Guide.. If you plan on Freeing up all the restrictions from yoru Intake and exhaust, THEN you need a bigger wastegate port and Swing valve. This is more the reason why you need a stronger sprung actuator, as the boost to exhaust backpresure ratio is higher than it normally would be, and in turn, the higher exhaust gases presure want to take the easiest option, and push on the wastegate port, hense why the STD actuator cant hold boost when you go onward of 4500rpm, and loosing boost. When you free up the intake restrictions (A proper cooler, and a proper set of intake pipes), The turbo doesnt have to work as hard, and in turn, you go from having low boost top end due to actuator, to overboosting as you need to bypass more exhaust gases from the turbine. 100% correct. You said 320rwkw before One of the disadvantages Tuner shops have, is they can tune a car with perfect boost during the day. And later on a old winter night, the boost could drift(if not tuned in closed loop) or overboost without their knowledge, and in turn possibly pinging, and worst, resulting in engine failure. At the end of the day, You need your wastegate ported and bigger swing valve fitted when you free up the intake and the exhaust. And you notice it overboosting situation(more so at night). I would rather have the piece of mind knowing that if I tune a car, its not going to overboost at night and cause possible engine failure Danny.