Headsex

lol.. I'm just giving valid info about this industry. I have said our primary focus is Fleets, not individuals.

Well, its $600ex installed.. We have installers all over Australia, infact any "car phone kit guy" can install them. Installation is rather simple, 3 wires.. GND, Constant 12v, and Switched (ignition/acc). And a few guidelines on how the 2 antennas should be places, more importantly the GPS antenna. It is easier for us to sell the unit without installation, and would reduce the price by approx $90?, and you can get your local autoelec to fit it. Although the idea about having dual redundancy of sims/telco sounds like a good idea in practice, it does increase the monthly cost of the sims by 2 fold (obviously), and when companies are already shopping around by price, such a option is just not worth trying to push. But this is the main reason why we are already paying a premium for sim/data by choosing telstra's network over optus / vodafone. Infact, we are paying double the cost with Telstra over optus or vodafone. Unfortunately this is passed on to the end customer, so it is one of our selling points when our price is compared to our competition. that's just the trouble with companies who need to provide their own sims.. its often confusing, troublesome, and 9 times out of 10, they get the wrong plan.. Some data plans charge minimum 1mb per session.. Can you imagine the cost if the unit only transfers 1kb per session! Telco's already provide a "m2m" solution for companies such as us, this way we provide the entire solution, sim card and all. being with telstra, we use the jasper wireless portal to manage all of our sim cards, order new sim cards, view data usage. We even have higher level diagnostic information available to us such as the tower connection, signal levels, MSC, SGSN, and PDP activations/sessions. So really, we can see when a sim is connected even before the modem attempts to send our servers data. What we DON'T do is sell the unit without our own sim card. Our provisioning system is via SMS, and telstra's m2m SMS is isolated from the real SMS world. That meaning, If you got one of our units, you cannot take it out and SMS your mates. Voice is also disabled, and data is tunneled direct to our servers, so there is no raw internet feed direct to the sim cards.. Perfect for security of our sims

Our product is targeted for fleets.. But like I said earlier, we do have a number of car enthusiast customers.. But it may be cost prohibitive for some to justify. We have had talks about providing a cheaper basic monitoring service with no reporting for this reason (reporting does use alot of server resources, like cpu time, and database size). For your interest, typical non volume discount for a fleet would be $600ex once off per unit/vehicle installed, and $45ex per month ongoing. Sure, companies have found cheaper prices with our competitors in the field, but they end up choosing us after they've trialed the other companies. If anyone is interested in a basic non reporting service, Suggest pricing on what you think car enthusiasts would/should pay, and I'll bring this discussion up with my business partners again. Yes, they transmit via GSM network. In our case, we use the Telstra m2m network. So you get the best reliability and coverage australia wide. We trialed vodafone's m2m solution only last year September to December.. Coverage was not the problem, they've setup another 1000+ towers in 2011 alone... But the outages we faced were simply jaw dropping. One outage lasted for 48 hours !!!!!! We've ran Optus units side by side telstra with good results also, but the occasional localised outage (a optus tower having problems..) We provide a complete solution, some fleet management companies still require the customer to provide their own sim cards.. How painful.. Have you ever tried calling telstra and asking for 20 sim cards with 5mb data on them per month! Chances are you will end up with sim cards worth $19 per month each... lol

Yes, it is illegal to ignition cut a moving vehicle. One way around this is to inhibit the starter wire.. So they can drive drive drive, you issue a "disable" and when they goto start the car again it won't. Also as said some units can be programmed to cut when they are not moving. however, do you really want a disabled vehicle in the middle of the road? Yes, there's plenty on ebay.. go for your life.. 99% of them are sh*t and unreliable. We've tried heaps of them Oh, and a big problem with the ebay units is that they are illegal to use in Australia. that's right. NONE have an A-Tick.. Its illegal to connect any device to a telecommunications network which is not A-Ticked. We've spent alot of money with testing labs getting our units A-Ticked. Its obvious that we want to be sure we're using the right units. We have units from Taiwan, USA, and Lithuania.

Yeah. the viper one is so good its been hacked.... http://www.securitytube.net/video/1963 http://whistler585.blogspot.com/2011/06/having-some-fun-with-viper-smartstart.html Yes, we do fleet management. Our website is undergoing overhaul.. so your best contacting me via pm

There's plenty of gps trackers on ebay from china.. Problem with these units is that their software locks up.. So unless its uploading all the time to a server for monitoring, how do you know if the units locked up? In a self managed setup, where the unit sms's you when it leaves a geofence, Here are the problems associated with it.. Are you able to track the unit live if its moving? Do you constantly have to call, or SMS the unit for its location.. In my opinion, that kinda self monitoring is poor.. Its only going to catch them if the vehicle is stationary, and you get that position. So this is where a Server based vehicle tracking is better. Updates every so many minutes, You have live position essentially. One of our customers had a VAN stolen whilst it was full of stock. The police were informed, and they requested the positions so they could Tail the van. They didn't apprehend the stolen van straight away, they followed it for the remainder of the day. Because of this, they found they had also stolen 2 other vans from other companies. Least to say, those 2 companies are now our customers

that's right! lol

Thanks Henz.. Yeah, we run a Fleet management company which basically does this. Our units however are not car alarms. They update our server every 2 minutes with the ignition on. In the event the vehicle is moved without ignition (ie, tow truck). It sends out "Tow" reports. They also have a built in battery backup which will give you at least 12 hours of updates if the battery is cut. We do have a few customers who are car enthusiasts, but most of our customers are fleets, ie, more then 20 vehicles. As our business is targeted for Fleets, we provide additional reports they find useful. In saying that, the service we offer might be cost prohibitive. but I guess it depends on how much you love your car

LIKE A BOSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS haha that's gold

Twin 044's on stock reg does cause rich afr's. the LTFT attempts to fix it, but hits 30% max change (or was it 25%?) and gives up. even when it hits the max LTFT, it is still rich. I've stuffed around with injector scalers for hours trying to get it clean, and the best I could do was rich on idle, and slightly richer than lambda when in gear (on a auto obviously). If it was a boot mounted twin 044, then yeah. maybe it might be ok as pressure will be lost on the length of the feed pipe. I even tried a T piece (instead of Y peice) the 2 044's together prior to feeding the rail in attempt to avoid changing the reg at first.. It helped, but not much.

at a guess, 15kg.. Its to suit Dana M86, which is ALL XR6 Turbos and V8's BA onwards.

I was looking for 1000 for it (paid 1500 for it).. Its just the Kaaz center. No Gears and no Irs housing. So it will need to be installed in your own center by a diff guy. If interested.. Make an offer.. postage to Adelaide might be expensive, the units heavy

Actually.. This Kaaz is the same part number for 1 particular Expensive Daewoo Vehicle.. I'd have to look up and check

I've got a Kaaz center for sale suit xr6 turbo / v8. You still need a diff guy to fit it to your vehicle..

I did answer that. Yes provided the intank pump is in good working order, you have changed both the fuel filter under the car, and the filter sock on the untank pump, it should be fine. However I'd suggest if your car has high Kay's or many years old now, it may be time to change the intank regardless. I have seen early Ba ones fail (as Long as 4 years ago) But is saying this. 99% of the time the intake should be fine, especially of you already has mods and more than 13psi boost.

You don't want a in boot mounted fuel system. You might as well put it under your seat, because your car will smell like it was stolen by a bunch of petrol sniffing thugs.. Everyone I know who's done this in the last has regretted it majorly.

that name just sounds wrong.. almost like instead of pit bull fighting to more a pitbull swingers..

Changing a UTE is more involved than a sedans fuel pump, but still possible. Sure it would be difficult to do it yourself at home.. But heck, I would rather people not install their own intank fuel pumps, and then come to me for a tune. I've got a perfect example of this, a car came to me, a BF F6, he listened to me on what kit to install (he purchased and installed himself), infact, he listened 100% to everything I told him he needed, he bought, and fitted it all. So I was impressed with his attitude towards this.. Sure, I could have done it all and charged him fitting costs.. But why take that from a car enthusiast who likes tinkering with his own car. I tuned the car on the dyno, went well, made great power for such simple mods, I believe it was 360rwkw on the first dyno pull, with a final tune of 377rwkw. I took it for a test drive, came back to the workshop I hired the dyno from. Went to move the car again to drive it for the customer, and fail, the car did not start. I could hear the intank fuel pump working, but it was a different pitch, so I knew straight away the fuel line came off. Hence why I would rather do this type of install.. Being the lifeline for the engine, what if the line had started to come off, and started running lean instead of totally falling off? Bang goes the engine. Lucky in this instance, it just came straight off.

I feel for people like you mick.. Dealing with exactly what I described on a daily basis as you run a workshop as your lifeline. Personally this is also one of the reasons why I never went into this full time. Alot of information on forums is very misleading, people describe what they've done, what they've got. but when someone else reads it, either information is missing, or they assumed its not done. People must understand, half of what they read is bullsh*t, the other half of what they read is lies! Without sitting down and thinking about it, I'd almost say with e85, I'm sure your top end mixtures would be lean, or starting to go lean.. 80's just dont cut it (I originally had them, and I do believe I found 400rwkw on e85 was there about the limit).

The aeromotive is a good piece of gear, So with your powerlevels I'll suggest it should be fine, as long as it does not lean out on e85 on the dyno (your tuner should hook up a pressure/flow guage to your fuel rail return to determine if your fuel pump is running out of flow on e85. obviously you haven't speculated what injector you have, which also plays a part in deciding if this setup is suitable or not. The stock rail and reg is "ok", but in saying that, there are issues. The std reg can not bleed off enough fuel when it is not required, so you have excessively rich idle/low loads. at high loads its fine. A duel feed fuel raid wouldn't work well in your situation, You only have 1 pump. If you split that into two, I don't really see a large advantage of this over single feeding. However, I do recommend you get a aftermarket fuel reg like the turbosmart fpr1200 instead of the std one, esp with the a1000.

Depending on fuel choice. If you said e85, I would say you need a second 044. Provided the intank pump is in good working order, it should be fine for a supply pump, and yes, provided the main tank is NOT surging, (ie, less than 1/4 tank fuel), it should manage to keep the surge tank full. Remembering under normal conditions, it operates at 5 bar + boost total presure . When running as a supply pump for the surge tank, it has a much easier job, and should be fine. Obviously a High KM based vehicle / intank pump, I would suggest otherwise. Infact, what I would suggest is 1) Get a surge tank, 044 2) replace the fuel filter under the car/passenger seat position 3) remove intank, clean the black sh*t out of the swirl pot, and inspect the intanks fuel filter. Replace as required. I can garentee that when people fit surge tanks, they forget about 2 and 3 above. I currently have a Walbro intank, and a PW surge tank with 2 fuel pumps. I also have the PW fuel rail which allows me to feed each pump to each side of the fuel rail, with a center return which goes via a Turbosmart fuel regulator. Realistically, anyone above 400rwkw should have a setup like this.

You had one? and he said you didn't need it? Its not like he needed to try and sell you one. This is exactly the type of tuners I hate.

The main points of doing a external pump / surge tank combo is to give you more fuel capacity. Sure, Intanks will work, but now, I would not tune a vehicle without having at least a better intank such as a walbro. At power figures higher than 330rwkw, I highly recommend a surgetank. I will not tune a vehicle without one for the simple fact that WHEN a engine fails due to fuel starvation/surge/leanouts.. Guess who gets the Blame?? The poor fuel system oh .. I mean, The tuner gets the blame. When the victom of a blown engine comes and posts a forum post about how his engine blew up, and its all his tuners fault, usually the basic facts of why it blew up are mentioned. Other issues I have seen multiple times over the past are customers that WANT a tune, bought their gear off ebay, and "do not believe" they need to upgrade their fuel pump because they read on a forum that the in tank pump is good for XXX rwkw.. You argue with the customer saying one is needed, and then start doing the tune... Once the boost level is lifted to a lazy 10psi in some cases, the intank pump has a heart attach and it leans out. You then tell the customer, even show him evidence of the problem pointing to the fuel pump. They go away not believing you. Then weeks later you get a phone call saying my car doesn't run properly and they hear a funny noise coming from the back seat of the car. I've made this mistake a number of times in the past.. As a result, there was 3 customers resulting of the above. A few had called weeks later his car now pings, and they want you to fix it (where it could have been avoided. by a fuel pump upgrade). 2 of them took my advice, the other still insisted I was wrong, so I refunded his money, "DETUNED" his current tune, and he went elsewhere. I heard through the grape vine that the engine blew up shortly after, and he started bad mouthing the tuner for blowing up his engine. Mind you, he still did not address his intank pump, but was making 380rwkw. And unfortunately there was 1 customer that lunched his engine. he DID have a intank, but could not custify the cost of a surge tank. Here is the "SIMPLE FACT" - The factory intank is designed for Factory power levels. If you want more power, don't be a tight arse, upgrade the fuel system. I do believe its responsibility of the tuner to insist these basic mods are done prior to any changes. Any tuner that tunes a vehicle with high power levels on the intank pump saying its fine, I believe is a f*cking moron not responsible and is driven by greed

Hate metro

I'm sure *Beep* is there now.