Headsex

From experiance, you can only make 310-315 rwkw with 13psi high in the rpm.. And that's with a good intake and good exhaust. I'd like to see a Dyno graph in shootout mode with power and boost logged to make sure the dyno corrections have not be altered.

that's right. But the guys car still had standard exhaust, and some bolt in replacement intercooler as I mentioned eariler. I'm sure if the cat was gutted, 15psi would have been achevable. The upgrade options his been given were: 1) better cooler.. the likes of a process west stage 2 or a nizpro stage 1 for instance 2) full exhaust 3) fuel pump 4) actuator / wastegate port but I personally like porting the wastegate, and fitting the actuator eariler on.. so boost is more reliable Given his got a built atomic motor.. Both intercooler and exhaust need to be addressed.. as well as wastegate port and actuator so we can dial in the likes of 18-20 psi..

The real job / career aspect is getting a good think over.. the question is.. Do I really wanna take the pay cut? I've always done tunes on the dyno.. that's how I know what sort of numbers to put in when I setup the tunes on the street. I love setting up the boost on the street as its time consuming to do. Depending on the customer, im using Capas software, or if they prefer a tune without a box, I use Sniper (I dont own it. I borrow someone else's).. HP Tuners isnt far around the corner either, and given autotechnique is vcmsuite, that's what I'd be using in the near future.. I really do need to come upto sydney.. Need to see what strip clubs are like in comparison... BSW1 ? The cell is my favourite part about it all The best benefit about it all... I dont go home like I was swimming in petrol.. These cars really do benefit by a big cooler that works.. and remember, just cos its big, doesnt mean it works. Im sure the intercooler testing thread (when it goes ahead) is going to amaze a few people.. no.. more expensive that's right, On their engine dyno, they can sit the engine tempreture, and intake tempreture (as its a water to air cooler) at a very stable setting. Im sure it would be adjustable, but that is the ultimate way of tuning engines. Its not practical however, to pull a engine out of a car, and put it on a engine dyno, tune it, and put it back in as many would agree.. Imagine how much tunes would cost then!! BUT this is a ideal tool for research and development of modifications such as cam and turbo changes.

2008-Feb-11 10pm.. As promised.. I"m going to go a little in depth with the next tune I did. Subject: BA XR6 Turbo, 4 Speed automatic Mods: Atomic engine + oil pump drive + valve springs, 60lb injectors, Some custom intercooler with a custom pipe from under battery pipe to plenum, Pod filter, 3500Rpm Stall convertor. Wow I thought. A built engine. But I didnt get too excited. I knew there was a lot of things missing. First dyno run, 250rwkw. Looking at the datalogging explains why. There was 2 possible reasons. The stall convertor was only flashing at 5000rpm on the dyno.. Imagine taking off and your revs bouncing straight to 5000rpm and sit there whilst your speedo was catching up. This would I estimate be stealing at least 30rwkw. Mainly because the engine was not driving the wheels, it was using the hydralics of the torque convertor to bring the driveline upto speed, this brings torque up, but power is lost. The second reason is I could only get 13psi boost. Because the car still had the standard 3psi actuator in it, it did not have the spring presure to hold the wastegate shut to allow boost to rise. So thinking about things a littlebit, I also assumed the compression ratio of this engine would be lower than standard.. so I added another 4 degree's timing in after 2 further runs. bringing power from 250rwkw to 280rwkw. If there was a standard stall convertor in the car, I believe this would have read anywhere between 300rwkw and 310rwkw based on the boost and timing it was seeing. So that's all she wrote.. Lets look into why it wouldnt make any more.. Remember, its a built engine, big rods, big pistons big everything.. 1) Wastegate Actuator was standard, they are rated at approx 3psi, and when the PI controller was commanding duty cycle of 1, all it saw was 13psi high in the scale.. To fix this, turbo would come off, and you would replace the actuator with a 12psi actuator. Whilst the turbos off, you would also port the exhaust wastegate, and fit a bigger swing valve to combat any possible overboosting problems when the other mods below are done. 2) Fuel pump was standard.. We done a number of runs, and the more aggressive boost come on, it would sometimes pop the relief valve on the fuel pump and run lean. So I made the boost come in as soft as I could (remembering the stupidly large stall convertor), and adjusted the injector high slope to combat that problem a littlebit. Suitable options here would be a Intank Walbro from the GSS340 family (I like the gss340 as it has a nice big fat intake). Or even a Process West Surge tank and Bosch 044 pump. 3) intercooler wasnt upto the task. I am unsure on what kit this was, it looked like a bolt in replacement, but given the AIR temps we were seeing.. although, sitting at 5000rpm for half the run wouldnt have helped either, the temps were rising fast. Given a built motor, I would almost be advising the customer to put some sort of plenum kit on it to cut down the cooler plumbing and give a nice good flowing system. 4) Exhaust was standard.. In my experiance, the most I could push out of my car was 315-320rwkw.. That changed when I changed my exhaust. So, Given all these are sorted, A retune will give him a very powerful car.. somewhere in the high 300's Ohh, and in conclusion.. 5000rpm stall convert is useless on the street. Mario is going to mention that the convertor is not 3500rpm as sold to him, but rather flashing at 5000rpm.. I really hope next time I see this car the stall convertor problem is going to be sorted. or at least a standard convertor fitted to the car so I can tune it properly.. Cos really all we were doing was mapping 4800rpm to 6500rpm, the convertor wouldnt hold the revs any lower.

LOL and just so you all know.. ive got the 3 good looking ones in my car

During tuning, I turn Knock sensors off. On the BA's they are way to active, and pull too much timing out. BF's are much better in this respect, although I do modify them as well. The Knock sensor Gains on the BA's knock detection needs to be adjusted, so far I'm not 100% happy with it, but im 90% there. There is no twin spark tables as LS1's have, its decides how much spark to pull out based on how "loud" the detonation is. There is 2 tables which limit the Max spark retard based on RPM, and another "slow learn" knock spark retard limit table (which is "like" a learning table, but not exactly). Out of interest, the BA F6 allows a maximum of 12 degree's timing to be pulled out. The timing is getting pulled out due to the Intake Air Temp correction table. every X degree's it is above 100F, it pulls X degree's out.. When I get a chance, I'll upload some screen shots of the Intake Air Correction Tables (there is 2 which work together) and explain how they work..

I'll keep that in mind with the next car I do.. chances are it will be a retune on mine as its been neglected since I've put the full exhaust on.. heck, the tune on my car has been neglected for a hell of a long time.. also, given my recent upgrade to the newer nizpro cooler, it will be interesting to see how the tempreture holds

Bring her out.... more important.. Make sure she brings some sexy single friends for me...

Yeh that dude owns a mean Boss

That would be Travis.. His utes quite fun to drive.. although the std clutch is letting it down.. Wonder if his changed his clutch yet.. that beast makes 340rwkw on the standard engine with 6psi 30mm adjustable front, and 22mm adjustable back.. cost around the $450 mark supplied I believe. (I didnt buy them).. Cost to fit? I'll let y aknow when I fit mine ok..

Yeh I got it.. I havent read it yet.. got a number of them sitting in there

"What's going on" Sure, call me check that I'm home, but I should be busy putting on my whiteline sway bars

Danny

Why not just wait till 11 chatting?

Never attempted anything like this before so I figure; why not. I dread getting a car with a "Crap" cooler, such as a Monza cooler/wog cooler, or a FPV F6 Cooler as examples... Main reason for this is during a dyno run, air temps go from a starting temp of approx 90F to 130-140F degrees. This introduces 2 Problems: Above 100F is where the standard calibrations start pulling timing out for air temp correction, and since the poor cooler cant keep air temps below 100F, there is 3 ways of "getting around" the timing being taken out, I’ll explain both, and explain the pros and cons of doing it. 1) Put more base timing @ 5000->6000rpm than the motor can normally handle. Pros: when air temp starts correcting the base table due to the increased Air temp, it still has enough timing in it to produce the power. Cons: On a really really cold night, when the intercooler is working better than it normally does, suddenly you’re faced with too much Timing, and the result = ping ping ping high in the rpm. As an example(without referring to a calibration file), at 5000rpm, a XR6T Engine likes approx 10-11 degree's timing at say 15psi. So, you put 14degree's base timing at 5000rpm. During the dyno run, the air temp jumps to 135F, it would pull out approx 3.5 degree's, totaling 10.5 degree's timing. On a very cold night, let’s just say air temp only rises to 110F; it would only pull out approx 1 degree timing, totaling 13degree's timing. Too much timing and ping ping... 2) Adjust the amount of Air Temp correction. Now before I explain the pros and cons here, I’ll explain a little more about this pair of tables. Ford spent considerable time in calibrations setting up this table, mainly using simulated mathematics (quite a lot of the calibrations are done via mathematics, especially the speed density tables, before the engines are even started). What I have noticed with the air temp correction, is it a little bit aggressive, to be on the safe side of things An example again: If you changed the amount of correction it pulls out at 135F (which is where the intercooler temp approx rises to during a run), how do you know if you have the correct linear relationship. If you made it pull out 2.5 degree's instead of 3.5 at 135F, how do you know at 100F, the base timing is going to be right remembering this is a modifier of the base (borderline) spark table? (I.e., for a colder night) I highly doubt ANY tuner will know the answer to this without doing some massive mathematical calculations... Unless you could simulate it. 3) Basically the same as number 2, but set it so after say 5000rpm @ 135F, it doesn’t do any air temp correction... brings you to the same problems as number 2, unless you could simulate it, it’s a blind guess. Based on my experiences with a FPV F6 cooler, or a Monza cooler, on the street, air temps rise to approx 135F as well. And on a hot day, the air temps don’t drop below 110F. (And you wonder why your car doesn’t perform well on hot days like it does on cold.) So really, unless you could simulate this, it was really just a blind guess based on experience, "It worked last time I did it". But ask yourself this. If a tuner tunes your car during the day. Is he in your car on a cold cold night when it’s pinging? Also in my experience 90% of people here don’t know what pinging sounds like, and usually keep their foot berried in the pedal, Very bad! Now, why am I talking about all this? Many of you might not have known, but Mario’s relocated "Autotechnique" to a new location. from Rowville, to Knoxfield, with main front onto Ferntree Gully road (just near scorsby road intersection). Mario dreaded his previous dyno setup (which is like 95% of workshops have), it was pit based, so it was a pain to tie down, and no real proper air circulation, cars got hot with just a normal fan in front, and exhaust gases were not extracted properly with the extraction fan, leaving you smelling like you've been playing in a pool of petrol and exhaust gases after a tuning session. So he decided to build a proper dyno cell, with good air intake, good exhaust extraction, and sound proofing it. As I checked in a number of times whilst Mario's new factory was being built, I saw the entire build process of the dyno cell. From the wooden frame, to the sound/thermal insulation, installation of the 2 huge fans on the roof, and the ducting. He has also upgraded his dyno, purchased a 4WD Mainline dyno, which is above ground, not pit based, making tying down cars easy. Last night was the first time I saw the cell in action. When I arrived, Mario was in the Dyno Cell tuning a LS1, with cams, and a loud exhaust. I could barely hear a noise from the outside, I actually assumed Mario was idling making changes, but he had ran it up a number of times whilst I watched from the outside, only hint giving being vibrations a dyno normally gives through the ground. I didn’t realize how loud it actually was until I went into the cell. Once the car was out, I immediately noticed, there was no horrible fumes stuck in the air (there shouldn’t have been honestly looking at the setup). I also sampled the air coming into the cell, and it was pretty hard to stand up against it at full speed as you can do funky things like base incoming air speed based on vehicle speed, or just set the fan on a %. Since there was a intake fan, and a extraction fan, you can vary the speeds to cause a positive pressure, or a vacuum like effect (bloody makes opening the door impossible) 7/02/2008, 9pm, Tuning a XR6T @ Autotechnique Mods: Valve springs, 60lb Dekas, Redback Catback exhaust, Monza Cooler The initial run, were quite impressive... the combination of the extraction fan, and sound deadening walls, drew the exhaust gases and quieted the noise down quite considerably. So much so that we could hear detonation/pinging inside the car just as well as the engine bay spotter hanging over the engine bay listening for pinging (many of you may have witnessed this at nizpro dyno days, where one of the guy sits next to the front wheel, usually with his hand ready to tap on the windscreen when he hears detonation). So initially, I found things were more pleasurable. No Fumes, Quiet even with car at full noise, and we could hear detonation. Now I say we heard detonation. This was high in the rpm. WTF I wondered. Then looking at the data logs. Air temp started at approx 90F, and rose to 105F. WITH A WOG COOLER. I have NEVER seen this happen before, not on a dyno, not on the street. So, as discussed before, I had too much base timing. This was with the fan set at approx 70% I believe. We increased the fan speed to 100%, and we found we could keep the Wog cooler from going over 105F. Because of this, I was able to adjust Base timing so it was correct at 100F, and then we slowed the fan down so we could let the air temperature heat up during a run, as it would on the street, reaching its high temp of 135F as I’ve always witnessed before, whilst doing this, I also slightly adjusted the amount of Spark correction so it wasn’t as aggressive, but still on the safe side of things. There we had it... We could simulate a dyno run, keeping air intake temps at approx 100F, and also letting them rise to 135-140F. And in turn, "correctly" adjusting the Intake Air temp Correction table. Power wise, the car only made approx 260rwkw because of a not so good cat. In Conclusion, This has made tuning a car a hell of a lot more enjoyable than before, as it wasn’t noisy, I didn’t smell, and we could get consistent results. Ohh... Pictures coming soon.. Just waiting for Mario to email them to me..

Tomorrow after work I'm fitting some sway bars to my car.. For sandown activities on saturday... anyone in my area, call me and come around (only if I know ya prior.. Lol)

Foti and I have raced more times than calder holds on a friday night.. Its always the same story. Cmon uley lets run from 180km/h cos I can't take off cos I've got a manual idiot stick And now his bleeding for someone elses car

Lol 12psi, and I'm running 9psi in that case

I've ran him before I whilst istill had my standard exhaust. He beats me, I aint bleeding about it like you would. His convertor is also bigger than mine, and also has diff gears too. As you've said, he is willing to push his std motor more than I'm willing to push mine. I'm not going to hurt this motor until I my other motor is ready. So 15psi is all I'm going to run.

Lol.. We cruise every friday night.. Obviously if you haven't guessed it, we are taking the piss. Its simple, rips is a bleeder.. :shoves_a_souvlaki_up_rips_exhaust:

Why you think rips only races rolling from 180km/h?? No traction issues at that speed.. We got soo much footage as it is, but don't want rips being mobbed by the hoon laws

Cya friday foti malaka

Well, seeing that my car is faster than yours, and its a lemon, yours must be a sour grape

What? So rips can come bleed here again when he looses yet AGAIN? Frank, I may have the best induction kit on the market, but I'm also concerned about longevity of my BA engine. Jims f6 has less boost than you and still beats you, and he has that gay AVO setup on it.. Maybe you can't shift quick enough

Nothing to proove, you started this remember bleeder.