Headsex

I think you've missing everyones point... in time you will see what happens to your "design", regardless of hose choice

The swirl pot isnt designed to move freely up or down.. Its on a slide to cater for the differences between the depth of the tank on sedan vs ute. Your fuel like will come off as others have been saying..

At the end of the day, wouldnt you guys, at a consumer level want to know What cooler works and what doesnt.. Or better yet.. How well a cooler your looking to buy works? From a tuner side of things.. I get people asking me, what coolers the best.. or I can get X Y or Z cooler for XXXX price.. What do I do.. Im also sick of telling people.. Dude, the cooler you just bought is a dud.. or.. upgrade your cooler, this one aint cutting it.. to get a reply with, but I just bought this one.. etc etc etc Run the car at a shop not associated with xr6 turbos.. great, I know just the place... BUT.. Do you guys forget that there is going to other people around whitnessing the testing being done? pretty hard to fluff results that way.. Regardless if you stand by your product or not, I think tests like this should go ahead.. If it doesnt, no bigger.. I have enough customers with all sorts of intercooler setups to do something there...

no need to undo the actuator bolts.. its fine in its position its in :> Also, with the drivers side water banjo fitting, if you unbolt that, you can manuver it around the bottom of the turbo around the side, and hook it up with a bit of wire to the power steering switch (near the power steering pump) rather than removing that rubber bit. holding it up stops the coolant coming out especially when you under the other water banjo fitting.. once you port ya housing, upload some pics, and I'll give ya some pointers if its going to overboost or not also, once all the banjos are undone, if you unclip the steel pipes from the front of the engine, it gives you more room removing the turbo (whilst someone else holds the pipe up out the way) just some pointers.. as people know I've done my fair share of them over the time, and these are the pointers I've picked up

Likely to see them at CQ most weekends.. Heck, the 2 of them disappeared there after the wedding ...

I hate your driveway dico.... Scrape my front bar every time... But at least it makes the back do this.. Hey Dico... Notice she aint smiling?? The Men! And of course, the beautiful ladies.. Hey Matt.. Your car makes her look hot (Sorry Haylee I love ya!) "Smack that" ... Aint that right Dico! Good one sh!tley.. your heads in the way of a perfect shot! Got a few extra's in this shot.... Smile! your getting married! There's room in the back for 1 more.. Apparently is offical now Dico..... Your f'ked!

lol, Maybei should have asked her?? Just uploading some shots to facebook.. I've got some that maximus took..

No worries dico.. I was just saying to a few people last night. I've known ya for like 10 years at least! And as you know, I'd do anything for a mate mM yesh.. Vanessa.. She loves the hoon in me also This is my favourite pic out of the whole wedding.. Being biased you think??? heheh nah nah

Its really a shame to think people would assume nizpro would be bias in their testing and results towards their own product... Are people forgetting that 3rd parties are going to be there also whitnessing the results?

Adding to this, I done some datalogging of the new nizpro cooler in my stage2 setup. On saturday, I believe the climate control said it was 31degrees outside in the late afternoon. Cruising around for about 30 mins or so, I found that cruise tempretures stayed around the 105F to 110F area (40.5dC to 43.33dC) But the real magic happened when doing wot runs.. 2000rpm to 6000rpm with 15psi, the temps dropped from 105F to approx 95F and then rised upto a maximum of 103F during a pull in 3rd gear. (95f = 35c, 103f =39c). So considering the ambient tempreture was 31degrees, the cooler done a good job on keeping the temps under or around the magic number 100F (magic because this is where air temp corrections start to come and play)

I think what you will find.. Having a big turbo, the torque curve is moved up higher in the RPM (DUH).. and in doing that dont beat on the rods as hard as if would if the torque curve is brought down in the RPM.. So You may find that the rods can make bigger power given the fact there's less torque lower in the RPM. It will be interesting to see how it goes either way

Look at the bottom line on the dyno graph.. AT: 25 IT:86 AT = Ambient Temp. Measured by the weather station IT = Intake Temp. Measured by the intake air temp probe usually placed near the air feed of the air filter. There shouldn't be any more than 3 -5 degree's difference between those values.. And sorry, just looking at your dyno again.. 230rwkw it shows, means approx 200rwkw * 1.171 = 232rwkw.. So you have approx 195 - 200rwkw.. You wont know exactly as I've approx calcualted that correction value based on the 86 air temp.. so its only a approx calculation backwards

I believe his refering to the power its shown, rather than the boost level your got.. Look at that line.. "Temp" 83.6degree's C.. The placement of the intake probe is totally wrong.

Hate to burst your bubble, but keep thinking that. your car given the correct corrections only makes approx 205rwkw which is about right for a standard xr6t BF Yeah its not a settings thing, you cant change any corrections in shootout mode. But placement of the INTAKE AIR probe is what caused the problem.. But last time the INTAKE AIR Sensor did not fall against something hot and cause ridiculously high air temps changing the correction factor to the likes of 1.3 Bog stock BF xr6 turbo with nothing done. Ok. just done a quick calculation, at 187F intake temps, using this page http://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_cf.htm your car is realistically making approx 205rwkw, with a correction factor of 1.171 (205 * 1.171 = 240).. Go back to him and tell him to run the car on the dyno again, and this time put the INTAKE Air temp probe where the air goes into the filter, Not on the radiator, or somewhere excessively hot 86degreesC is excessively hot to be measured on the IT probe. it should realistically be very close to AT, Air temp of 25 as measured on the dyno sheet.

as mentioned before.. IT in at the bottom of the dyno sheet.. "INTAKE TEMP".. 86 degree's C is a little high, and obviously pushing the dyno correction way out..

Oh, and regards to Borderline table, AFR Spark modifier tables and Knock sensors.. Here's a tip I found works well for me.. The AFR Spark modifier table. I dare say 95% of tuners zero this table out. Which basically makes the Borderline table the "base" spark table as such.. So the numbers in the Borderline table and given you have no spark corrections, is the spark you see finally at the engine. I shy away from zeroing out that table, let me explains why.. (this is probably the engineering side of me coming out) The Borderline table is known as the "Base borderline detonation table" in fords books. And associated with this, Its the base borderline spark table at Lambda 1 or 14.64afr. Now depending on how tight your timing is at cruise and what not, your going to be faced with 2 possible scenaros.. Perfect timing at cruise points, and not enough timing at WOT or Too much timing at cruise points (with knock sensors pulling spark out), and perfect timing at WOT. Now.. Your thinking 2 things.. Cruise timing doesn't really change much at low rpm in relation to AFR.. or more importantly Cruise, and WOT have different load points to determine spark. But the whole transistion from cruise to WOT is where it makes the difference. Usually what I've found is when the AFR table is zero'd out and there's a transision from cruise to Wot, the very tight timing, sets the knock sensors off and they aggressively pull timing out as there's too much timing at leaner afr's, due to the blend ramp not blending the AFR's richer quick enough. Sure, you could make your lower spark tables in the cruise area's of the spark map to combat this problem also, but why? This was a very important step I found to make my knock sensors work better, as I found, regardless of what gain I had setup in the knock sensors, timing just kept getting raped. Oh, and I might add.. I developed all of this Street tuning.. I dont think this would have been possible to simulate as well on the dyno as you dont "drive" the car on the dyno, you tune at wide open throttle on a dyno..

Yes, I have also tried using MBT as a upper clip, but I found it does funny things with the Traction control, and what I've found after rescaling the timing map, I usually dont touch the mbt, but doing a compare of the MBT vs Borderline table(after factoring in the AFR Spark modifier table), there's still a number of degree's different. However, what you describe with the ACT modifier, adding more timing when its colder, happens by default in the calibration, although I do modify that to do exactly what you said, add more timing in colder situations for ACT, I've had to pull some out of the ECT modifier when colder.. Heck, people shouldn't be booting their car when engine isnt upto temp anyways. I've found if im hard on the timing, the ford calibration is 1) too aggressive when its cold(combined with the standard ECT spark modifer), and 2) too agressive retard when over 100F Onto Blown setups, which your forte lays, I've found in the few blower kits I've tuned, the PD blowers Air temp usually sits around 130F to 140F, and what I usually do is "re scale" the table as such, so that 130F(or 140F) is 0 degree's correction, and anything above or below that gets modified as we've discussed above. In regards to knock sensing.. on a BA, I spent me many many MANY calibrations trying to get the gains right, Or close. I started with the values from the BA MK2 F6, as this also only has 1 knock sensor, but obviously the gains still needed to be adjusted to suit a higher power level. With the BF's and having 2 knock sensors.. I only need a little bit of a modifcation to the gain tables as they work very well (once again, I started with F6 values in a XR6T calibration) But, When tuning, I've found best tune the car with the knock sensors turned off.. 0 retard on both max table and slow learn max table. This gives me the best sense on when the cars are going to detonate.. Once I've finished the tune, I allow 3 degree's max retard around the 4500-5000rpm mark, and 2 everywhere else.. On the slow table I usually leave this at 0, or .5 - 1 or so. I also test this by adding 2 degree's timing in the adder to see if the knock sensors pull it out with no audible ping, and it does it well. If the Max retard values are set higher, it does pull more out than it needs to.. So its still not 100% perfect.. But its better than turning knock sensing off totally like some workshops do..

Usually this really effects the ET, not the MPH. The main difference between auto vs manual is that you cant stall up a manual to get off the line, this effects 60foot, and ET. From what I've seen, man vs auto cars down the quarter share the same mph vs power, Just ET differs.

EXACTLY.. This is the point im trying to get to.. Dyno figures is not what makes a customer happy, although 90% of people here believe that. One good example is.. a car I tuned to 300rwkw.. and another car tuned to approx 360rwkw(by another tuner).. On the street, they were neck and neck, usually with the lower powered car infront by about a car. There is a hell of a lot more in a tune than the big fluffy number at the top of the dyno graph in how the car will perform in real world situations (ie, the street) I had one customer, who believed he had a 330rwkw tune by HPF.. after I got my hands on it.. the absolute most power I could get out of it was 302rwkw, and that was leaning on the timing really hard, so much so I pulled some timing out before I let it go back to the customer, so infact it only has approx 295rwkw. But at the drag strip he beat his last time by the likes of 4 tenths and 2 mph or something. Although you could tell he was disapointed at his lack of a 300rwkw dyno sheet, he kept saying it pulled harder the whole rpm rev range than the 330rwkw tune he had previously. I've even found that pulling timing out under 4500rpm and sacraficing bottom end, will make the dyno show higher power as the rate of acceleration of the roller is higher at 5000rpm than it would be if there was more timing/power under 4500rpm.. On the street, these kinda tunes lack bottom end, and really are a "dyno queen" type tune... its essentially "Spiking" the dyno, much you can do with boost spikes.

Futher to this.. Mauz, and Mark(fsix) both have power around the 390 - 400rwkw, as an indication, their mile per hour is 130 and 132mph.. Definate indication of their power.. So, for 350rwkw, you need to be smack bang in between 115mph and 130mph.. Regardless of tyres

Now see, I ran 114mph back when I had 302rwkw when I had the standard exhaust. Which given the moroso calculator and everyone elses results, its about right. Another car I tuned also with 308rwkw ran 114mph on street tyres, although his et wasn't as special with a 12.1 and a wheelspinning 2.1 60foot the mph was there indicative of the power its made. I have since ran 121mph with not a good et, but that was due to poor traction, and poor 60foot. But that's not how the car currently sits, I'm chasing some 17" et streets to do it all again. So even your figure of 313rwkw is a bit happy given the mph you run. With 340rwkw you should be in the 120's Desfluranes power and mph is on the money

In shootout mode, the correction factor is calculated automatically based on various temp/humitiy/atmo presure. And its printed along the bottom of the dyno graph.. have a quick read of this first post here http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/archive/index.php/t-58222.html This guy does a good write up, especially makes alot of good points about the way the mainline/dynolog software works but makes refrences to the dyno dynamics also. Down the quarter mile.. MPH is a good indication of what power the car produces.. Given you need XXX power to get to XXX mph down the straight.. considering all our cars weigh about the same, you can tell who has what power and who doesnt.

The "X" Key / Correction value can be changed before or after a dyno run... Heck. it could have been set 5 years ago at 1.15, and forgotten about. And for the last 5 years, your dynos shown 15% higher power. The dyno will prompt every so often for Air temp, and humidity, this will also change the correction factor.. If the dyno operator is under the pump, chances are they will just go enter enter enter, and it remains the same. This is why I've requested a shootout mode graph, it stops the dyno operator from changing the correction factor, and relys on a weather station, and air intake probes to calculate AND print all the shootout figures along the bottom of the dyno. Yes mph is a good indication of 1/4 mile times.. You ran it? what mph did you get

Whats a timeslip got to do with this thread? I was suggesting show a "shootout mode" dyno sheet for refrence.. Whats the point of even talking about tuning here when XXX comes here with a dyno sheet with god knows how much correction dialed in. In the land of a dyno dynamics dyno, without shootout mode, you press the "X" key on the keyboard, and punch in 1.10, and instantly the customers car has 10% more power. SHOOTOUT MODE denies you doing this! There's no way, in shootout mode that you will make that power with those mods. Simple..

like I said... a dyno graph in "shootout mode".. Anyways, lets keep this on topic