Headsex

Yes well.. Driving down King street planted stripper idea's in my head... power.. last known dyno sheet was 320rwkw, that was with standard exhaust.. now, 4" dump, twin 2.5" xforce setup, woke it up plenty

No.. We didnt see venus.. BUT, we have a replacement At least, this one decided to play who can give the harder nipple criple game with me, and lick my belly button, all whilst hanging upside down from a pole .... (Lucky I had a shower eariler so I had no belly button fluff)..

Do it properly!! 3a_YghExLgY

great news

There's one in berwick.. has a xr6t sedan. total stocker... she's tuff.. but she's like the a door knob.. everyones had a turn

Bring more to Vic please.. All we got here are chicks who like holdens..

Its not everyday a hot chick who owns a xr6t comes to this forum .. Actually its not every day a hot chick owns a xr6t.. they usually cruse around in holdens

How are you? ASL?

Well Hello there.. May I be of some assistance in offering you a jump start ?

Probably neither.. I drive my EF Fairmont to and from work Ohh, and I get on the monash at wellington road.. Fatz doesnt live on this side of down.. oh, and Fatz is Phantom Purple, Mines VIBE

I agree.. external gate is ugly unless you have a custom manifold to suit

When you change the actuator yes. you need a retune

Yeh.. That was me :> I came 9th in the Go-To-Whoa if you take into the 2 error times at the top.. one was a 4 second, and one was 5 second.. the winner was that Datson 260Z with a V8 and 4WD.. Purely setup for track use that car, so it gets off the line and stops pretty damn well I Saw ya

Sean still has standard actuator, so his limited to approx 11psi from memory high in the rpm. So its 274rwkw with 11psi

whats wrong with 215rwkw... LOL blame wog for stuffing around with his sniper, he uploaded the wrong tune from ya flash box

What size actuator did you use? ohh, and I would have replaced the studs and the nuts..

Did you see a headsextuned sticker on tha back?? If it was around 8:30ish it would have been my good mate johnny, driving to the auto joint to change his convertor

Yeh you did

Guys.. Once the bolts come loose, you will never be able to tighten them up. They will just keep coming out. REPLACE the nut and studs with brand new ones from ford.. Retail price for the 4 studs and 4 copper like nuts is under $30 Problem solved By the way, replaceing the 2 front ones top and bottom might be a bit difficult, top one has a water line in the way, the bottom one, you need a 4" extension shaft with a slight wiggle on the end (a uni wont fit in there). Everytime I change actuator and port wastegate, I replace all those nuts and studs to combat them coming out again, which they do. Ohh and I read above someone mentioned something about a turbo to manifold gaskit. Sorry mate, none exist on the xr6turbo, the only gaskit is the dump pipe to turbo.

Want to know if you have a Genuine Walbro or a fake?? look at the middle pump, see how you can see the "rotor".. That design is a GE-Rotor design by walbro.. Another GE-Rotor Walbro pic And a "vane" type rotor.. Used in various other pumps, INCLUDING walbro copy's

I dont have the crimp tool either for the hose, I was refering to the wiring, to plug it into the ford plug, rather than cutting and joining the wires as you've done.. Gives a much more professional look.. (I did one today, I should have taken a photo) what you will find, as you depress the top down on the spring, watch the angle of the fuel lines, you will see by the excessive angled strain put on the fuel line, which after time will bend/fracture the fuel line and come off just under the clamp. Considering the 340 has a circular bottom, it allows the outlet of the pump to be positioned anywhere, and what I do is use only approx 2" of fuel line from that point, direct to the top feed, obviously the length has to be correct as it now becomes fixed, and your unable to push down on the spring to screw it back into the tank, so you need to keep adjusting it to get the right height so it fits in the tank nicely. obviously you cant have too much host or the strain is too much, and you cant have it too short, cos the swirlpot wotn sit on the bottom of the fuel tank. as for the integral clip, nothing to worry about.. having a fixed fuel line length makes sure the fuel pump also sits on the bottom of the swirlpot keeping it in place.

BTW guys, many of ya's didnt pick up that strawberry is using a GSS-340 pump. I recommended this pump to him for 1 very important reason. Mechanically the specifications of them are the same as the GSS-341, and GSS-342 walbro.. This is the difference.. Left to right, GSS-340, GSS-341, GSS-342 the 341 and 342 has the same inlet, however spun 180 degree's so its opposite. The GSS-340 has a nice fat opening, and the filter designs are much better suited to fitting into the the xr6t's swirl pot, which I'm sure straughsberry will agree

Also, I have the correct crimps so you can use the original ford plug. Saves having to use those press joiners.. I would hate the idea for it to come off inside the fuel tank

Ironically you only need about 2inches of hose... I would have left the original return rather than cut it. but you need to pull it out of the swirl pot or else you cant split it apart.

THAT is the exact point people are trying to get across.. the loops are the problem. REGARDLESS of fuel line type you use, garenteed problems will arise down the track. be it 1 week, or 1 year.. the sedan and ute swirl pots are the same. the differences are in the ute, the swirl pots sit deeper in the tank, and the sender is mounted to the swirl pot instead of in the tank on a sedan